moparmuppet
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Posts posted by moparmuppet
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Good stuff @Mof . So much of this will help me out soon. I have a broken dream in my shed. What fixings were you using between the wood and cladding? Nails or just special glue. What about fixing the wall and roof linings? I heard treated wood reacts with the alloy. Did you cut down your own wood from clears? Any link to the rules on venting a gas fridge as mentioned. I haven't succeeded with Dr Google. Thanks for spending the time with blogging this.
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Feckin hell, that looks brave... Nice score though.
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Thats a nicer job than I managed in 2 mins with the staple gun, I have to admit.
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The Brethrens in Mot gave me a bottle of that fuel-set when I bought a diesel genset off them. They were mainly on about the conditioner aspect with fuel potentially sitting a long time. The dose rate is very low and when I added it to my old L series toyota, it quietened the black smoke a bit on start-up.
Back in the day we would always fit a Moreys upper cyld kit when we did LPG conversions.
The link up he top is not for fuel set. Liquid engineering vs liquid inteligence
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I will see you tomorrow at VCC
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Para rubber sell them. Black or white. Threaded studs or hole to push onto the tube.
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@ValiantHi Pete. It goes like this. Chinese 5.5 hp Honda. Pump is a Hi/Low unit, means quick ram until the load comes on, then gets slower but grunty. Motor, pump and ram specced as a unit. The v/v is a logsplitter v/v, it latches on in the return stroke while you grab another ring. Where you stand you are in right close to the ram and the v/v. A bit of table on the far side. As photos show, it will split a 450mm round with 1 hit. I grab the far bit, roll it sideways onto the table, the 1/2 on my side gets put on the table to my right. grab the other bit against the guts and roll it 1/8 turn after every split, Wood falls onto the elevator (run off the return hyds, can be removed) The stroke required to ping a bit off is around 200mm as seen. The pump doesnt kick into low for this sort of stuff so a cycle every 2 secs is no sweat. Photo shows where the head is when the average piece splits, barely driven the head depth. You can see how the Angle iron that the wood is supported against is the secret to the whole thing, allowing the wood to "hinge"on it and ping off. The beam that it sits on is the oil tank, holds 20l. Magnet bung at towball end with filler and sightglass, pump sucks from other end via a screw-on filter. Can be moved with a small 4 wheeler. As can be seen by the last photo, it doesn't want for power, cutting wood in 1/2 across the grain. Cheers to @scooters for doing the pics, Im on dial-up and my cellphone has a steam valve on the side of it coz oldschool.
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https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/ I bought gear from these guys for my driveshaft. pretty good prices for proper strong stuff. My driveshaft guy was a bit anxious when I told him i had got the bits myself but was chuffed when he saw what was in the box
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On 28/08/2019 at 22:45, beachlander said:
I've made some moulds up, it's a 2 part resin and use different coloured pigments to get the desired look.
Have just invested in the gear to start stabilising wood so can do hybrid wood/resin ones such as the video you posted which I'm excited to try
Shit those knobs look the smicko man. What brand resin and pigments do you use. I have a steering wheel to have a go at but I haven't found my brave pills. I want a kinda see-thruough green with flake in it. I have green glitter and clearcast resin and have made a MDF template I was going to pour a 2 piece Plaster of Paris mould around. Not sure about runners/risers etc so procrastinating. What are your moulds made of to get that finish?
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Will do @Valiant . Its a horizontal unit, light enough to tow with a quad (I don,t have a quad but). Are there pics of the front of your splitter with the engine/tank etc? Always interesting to compare different ways of tackling the same job. Home next week. Can't remember how to post pics etc so @scooters will need to hold my hand. Will stick it in the Chainsaw fred, maybe post the other shit I haven't got around to as well. Proper Barry here mate.
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Just use solid 0.6 wire. lots of tacks, move around a heap, short welds to link tacks, lots of gentle hammering as the welds cool. What are you going to do about the fuel flap?
I reckon that could look pretty cool. Good on ya.
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On 02/08/2019 at 17:39, ajg193 said:
Head down to the EPS Library at UC, they'll probably have a copy on the shelf that anyone can access free. /edit clicking that link of yours gives the file anyway...
Double edit, your copy is superseded. I have the latest copy. I'll see if I can PM it to you.
Me too please if it doesn't get you sent on a date with Bubba. thanks.
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Cheers for that. It has a really shallow full length sump so I was figuring the oil must have to sit above the base of the block. I will pour some in and see how that looks and make up a stick.
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Yo Bro. Toyota 4V V8. Does any one know what the oil capacity is on one of these or have a dipstick they can measure from the rubber grommet to the high and low levels for me. I have a dipstick tube but no other info.Theye were in the Japan only Century so my old Ripco books don't help. Cheers, #poormanshemimuppet
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I havent played on one of these in 25 years so these are only general musings. I don't know your skill level so sorry if I'm telling you to suck eggs.
Is it running on 4 when you give it the squirt? Or really lumpy. Like have you mixed a couple of plug leads and its running on 2? Get it to run by pumping it for a few (10-20) seconds from cold then feel the exhaust manifold, are all branches the same lukewarm? If 2 are dead cold, thats a problem. All the same temp, or at least firing, and you didn't play with the distributor or have the leads off, then it is more likely carbie or vacuum.
Crank the engine with the fuel line to the carb off. Are you getting enough fuel supplied from the fuel pump? Can you check the fuel float level, is the new needle/ seat assy letting enough fuel in? A quarter full carb will get a car firing on constant prodding the pedal but not have enough "head" to get fuel thru the venturis.
Can you get someone to pump it to keep it running while you spray short bursts of Start-ya-bastard around the base gasket and manifold to block surface?( keep yer head away incase the engine backfires) If it irons out the issue a bit you have pinpointed the problem to where you are squirting
Cant remember where the brake booster pulls vacuum from but have you cracked the vacuum hose pulling it off or refitting? Not sure if thats the vac line you mentioned but if it is leaking/old/cracked its big enough to kill the engine. The dist vac line off won't give that much grief
Can you mix up the jets in the same venturi? Swapping side to side shouldn't be a problem, swapping around within the venturi(if you even can) would be sub optimal at least. Do you know now where you started from with what jet is where? Has kitting the carb made it better or worse than it was after the manifold was removed? If it is the same bag of balls you haven't manifestly fucked things up doing the carbie job, the oil leak/inlet manifold job is where it all fell apart.
Have you got the old carbie gaskets etc. There are normally a choice of top gaskets with different holes and portings. Compare what you fitted with what you removed.
It sounds like there be 2 issues. #1 was the running a little rough.# 2 is bag of balls since the inlet manifold was removed.
Be calm, use logic. Good luck.
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On 16/06/2019 at 19:09, cletus said:
I think this is what I grabbed to put the 8.8" into my 1960 chrysler. Built well and cheap as chips.
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https://allgaragefloors.com/concrete-densifier-sealer/
I'm looking at a similar size garage and think I will be going this way. Early days for me yet though. Would be interested in your chosen shed construction and rough cost. I am guessing $ 350-400/square meter completed for me but will be finding out more( probs shit myself!) when I am back home. Put a yarn up in the garage thread. Cheers.
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Glue some dirty Do Bro cans into the hole? Puncture bottom of can and drink goodness first and have lovely riptop left intact for full win. See you in a month and I will give you a hand, pretty big job eh.
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Maybe hit up someone who makes the badges for the bike rallies and Rover car club barries sort of stuff.
https://www.badgeworks.co.nz/index.php?route=product/category&path=59_75
There are probably others about
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That looks like the Mitsi cop car that you carjam the rego and it comes up stolen. nn2609, black gsr sigma. edited
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We have 2 of these. Manage 7.2L/100 from Nelson Chch return. We have put 260k on one of ours, now at 395K, regular servicing only. The hoodlinings all fall down but Im good with a staple gun. Auto are thirstier than manuals. That one is reg/wof, manual and you will get it for 1500, its been there a month.
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13 hours ago, Speedy88 said:
Looks like you have been enjoying a good southern break. I reckon we mainlanders tend to wheel our old steeds out a fair bit more than the N.I. does. That or there are just more surviving as we only have 1/4 the N.I. population. You have captured a bloody grouse cross-section. Cheers for the effort.
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What do we use these days for lubing the old speedo cables when they start whipping? Was going to use CRC 808 silicon glide. Any better ideas. Cheers.
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Shit that was quick Kyteler. I was still typing. I yaked to a guy that dismantles cars in Nelson and he said he had just bought 1. Bought from a guy whos father owned it and was a founding member of our original Nelson "motorcycle enthusiasts club" the Lost Breed he reckoned
Valiants Big Block AP5
in Project Discussion
Posted
Hey @Valiant. Nooice car. I chased high temps in my 440 for quite a while. Have a 4 core copper radiator, similar cam etc to you. 3.73 gearing in a 8.8" Changed to a MrGasket thermostat that failed after 3 heat cycles(Hint, read the Fkn review BEFORE you buy, lad). Fixed it now I reckon, 10 mins idling in Park in Nelsons glorious midday summer sun OK. ( twin china fans.)
Biggest gains. Go to www.Flowkoolerwaterpumps.com for one of their waterpumps at about $120 USD, made for bigger flow at reduced R.P.M. and a proper RobertShaw branded balanced thermostat from the same place.(370 series? Don't quote me on that) These balanced thermostats are more of a "sleeve style than a "poppet" type and on my pump housing at least they kinda seal on a second part of the housing 3/4" down with the sleeve part. they circulate the water right round the block when warming up instead of the water just running round and round the bypass. Thus no hot-spots at the back of the block. they were designed for when the big 4-5 tonne motorhomes came out with 440s to aid cooling when lugging up hills etc. A high volume water pump can actually push enough water that a normal poppet thermostat will struggle to open against the pressure, hence the balanced thermostat needing fitted with the pump as a pair. These 2 things, fitted together transformed it. No more anxious coming up to the lights, how far will the needle climb malarkey. Good luck.