dmulally

Question: why was I even born

Managed to take off the old water pump of the EA71. Three bolts snapped. 

Check out the crap inside. Yikes. 

@yoeddynz when you could be bothered, are you able to show me the engine mount setup you have for the datto pls? My one is reasonably clever and uses the original mounting point but I know the LVV cert man won't like it being angle iron and not boxed. 

Anybody got any hot tips for rebuilding starters? I sandpapered the round copper looking thing and the three things that go around it but nada. 

It pushes out but doesnt rotate. If I rotate by hand it is very stiff. 

This thing is yuck. I might give it a scrub first and then take a peak under the valve covers. The breather pipes are missing so looks like a lot of condensation/rust could have snuck into it. 

Soon find out!

19 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

I might have a spare scooby starter you can have. Not sure what those earlier engines have fitted. 

Thanks. I'll send you some pics of what it looks like. It looks pretty cruddy though so I might give it a good clean first and see if that's all it takes. 

Also trying to sort shipping on these:

Seller is making it tricky to know a price however. Look at the questions:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/engines/listing/4289059341

So I got the engine freed up but the starter motor is frozen. Even tried hitting it with a hammer but nada. 

I might just drop the engine and try to start it on the floor as it's a pain trying to get to things in there. 

Yeah furry muff. I suppose I could change it if it starts getting too warm. 

The front one is a modern alloy radiator. I could weld it shut but not sure I want to go down that one way street. The 18psi is to keep it closed off. 

Rear ones look 80's or 90's. 

Front and rear will be on different circuits (front off the heater lines with an EWP in line) and rear two will be split and on the subie water pump circuit. So all with the same water but going down different paths. 

Came with a pretty sweet split radiator setup in the rear. 

Anybody know if it will be a problem having a filler neck/cap both front and rear? Thinking for the front putting on an 18psi cap and 13psi on the rear with an expansion bottle off that one. 

15 minutes ago, cubastreet said:

Did they hacksaw the front off the subie box and tig it onto a bit of plate?

To the left of the plate is hillman and subie to the right.

Going to be a right pain when it breaks as it will all need to be swapped over rather than punted into the creek like every other rooted imp box. 

The angle iron engine mount is pretty sweet too. 

I love that sort of one off engineering. Looking forward to seeing if it actually drives. 

2 hours ago, cubastreet said:

I came across these controllers. 200A continuous at up to 84V. 300A peak. That's about 20HP continuous in OS talk. Might suit your needs @dmulally

https://makerbase3d.com/product/makerbase-vesc-75200-v2/

Ta. I'll be looking at 48v and under 20hp so that would be sweet. 

I've almost given up looking for wrecked forklifts and am eyeing off golf carts now. 

From my fading memory the band on the diode should be on the alternator end. 

It's why I use a boring old one wire alternator these days and an altmeter. Bulletproof and simple. 

So some big decisions are coming up soon for the Imp. I presently have the EA81 off being rebuilt and am working on the front radiator mounts/ducting. 

I got a call out of the blue about two Imps for sale along with a shed load of parts. One is an Imp van with the windows (a husky) and the other is a basic bitch Imp with a subaru conversion already done! From what I can tell without pics it has an EA71 and a stock gearbox. It has been certed and the rego on hold. The van is dead rego. All allegedly. 

I have ALWAYS wanted an Imp van and with my quest to get down to 3 cars in 5 years (67 Econoline camper van and 66 C20 ute the other two hence me trying to flog the rest now) I'll definitely be keeping an Imp as a forever car. The van could be a good candidate for an EV conversion with all the space in the back but I dont even know if I'll get around to doing an EV as my cert guy wasnt keen. 

17 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

So now your suit cases are going to get wet 

You must think my shed roof has a leak if you're concerned about it seeing daylight in the next 10 years. 

On 13/07/2023 at 09:01, yoeddynz said:

please please please don't do what the lazy folk in the UK do and vent the radiator out the bonnet. Imo it ruins the clean lines and just looks a bit naff. Its very easy to cut a hole in the spare wheel well, brace it and make a nice bit of ducting to feed it out there   I'm amazed at how well my setup cools that Datsun down -only a couple of times has the fan had to kick in and that was on stupidly hot days when stopping after a hot run.  I think quite a bit of heat is lost just off the pipes heading to the front and back.

Your small all alloy scooby motor wont take much to cool either.

EDIT : I just read that you've already gone done punctured holes through your bonnet.

Might as well add a scooby wrx bonnet vent, pointing backwards then.

As for your front inlet- there's heaps of airflow through the opened up hole so just make a simple bit of ducting to spread that flow across the radiator face.  You can angle the radiator too which helps as the airflow pulls more off the fins if it has change its angle as it flows through.

No more holes!!!

Naughty Damian. Bad boy! No pudding for you!

If only you were as right as you are pretty. 

Allow me to show you my working out. 

Here is something somebody else prepared earlier.