dmulally

The datto engine is the way of the future. I have a spare SC12 floating around if you get bored. I was going to fit it to my commer but now I have the rapier engine it doesn't need it.

I've checked and a corvair engine won't fit. Neither will a Rover V8 (maybe if mid mounted and the seats move forward or front mounted and you have chinese concubine feet) A daimler V8 engine will fit mid or rear mounted.

From painful experience with Imps and Landy's, you're going to need them.

It's much easier to stuff a bike engine in an Imp than a mini and they put them in mini's all the time. If I were to do it again and actually keep the back seat, I'd look at a Honda ST1100 or ST1300. V4 and smooth as silk. Front or rear. Which ever it could fit easiest in. Or a Daimler 2.5 V8. Whatevs.

Yeah. Not hard to sandwich a drive sprocket/flywheel between the gearbox and diff coupling and solid mount a starter to the diff snout for reverse. The project is practically building itself.

For a goldwing imp I would mount the engine in the rear and providing there was space I would mount a commodore IRS diff to the output shaft of the goldwing gearbox. Just flip the diff and change the breather if need be. If not enough space I would mid mount or front mount. Then sell me the datsun imp. It really is win win.

You're doing a super job on the Imp. I take it you're across where you have to weld at the front and on the suspension to stiffen it all up? Super quick and easy mods with a mig which doesn't add any weight.

Commer Van. Probably has less HP than an imp. The engine shat itself on the weekend actually. I'll try and breathe life into it this week but I think it may be time to put the rapier donk in there.

I honestly cannot remember. Fucking photobucket. I currently have to fabricate a bike carb manifold for my commer but after that if you want to get tricky give me a yell. Anything that pisses off the donuts or even the imp transaxle is a winner.

Blimey it was so long ago. I honestly cannot remember. I bought it as an unfinished project so I don't know if they changed it at the wheel side. They looked exactly like the pic above though. I have no idea about the side but it wouldn't be hard to cut and shut. They were sliding so as long as it was narrow enough you could slide them out to suit. Pretty sure I took them to the tip.

They were the ones that mounted to the R160 diff iirc and they had the adapters welded onto to imp side brackets that usually held the donuts. It took the donuts out of the equasion and were trouble free. It looked like the attached although that file says R200. Dunno the differences. As for the R1 it lasted about 20 minutes but it was a fun 20 minutes. I made a plate to enclose the transaxle and used a bearing to support the input shaft. I mated that to the bike sprocket and off I went. If doing it again I would use a commodore diff and starter motor reverse on a custom sprocket or on a disc rotor. I had to cut the parcel shelf iirc. I had pics on photobucket but we all know what happened to that. If I had my Imp time again I would use an A12 or EA18 mated to a VW gearbox. The gearbox is terrible. I used to carry a spare one on the parcel shelf as it was just easier that way.

I take it you know Frank (Bodgy) from Queensland? I threw out so many parts including the thicker axles when I left oz. My R1 Imp used datsun half shafts as the rubber donuts were not up to it. Always wanted an A12 Imp with a VW box. Such a great little car.

Good old Imps. I've sold as many as I have taken to the tip. The stock engines are so unreliable but a lot of fun to throw around. I put an R1 engine in one many moons ago and that went like stink until I broke the transaxle.

I assume you mean me. If so, sure: https://imgur.com/a/XLmwT

I am building my house in one bay of a four bay pole shed currently. I had shed builders do the basic frame (including standing the poles) and heavy joists/rafters. Boring things like screwing on tin I did myself because it's pretty hard to stuff it up. The builders used the rafters roughly nailed together and into the ground to hold them straight when stood up. If doing it again I'd still get the builders in. Once the council gave me the final sign off I did the concrete floor. I saved a fair by by doing all the boring work myself which was essentially me with a shovel and rake for about 3 days straight. I didn't have it perfectly level but I have minimum 6 inches on concrete so I am sweet. Especially as I have tractors and a truck. It used to piss me off not being able to find out costs of these things so hopefully this will help. Rough costs off the top of my head were: 11k for a quins 9X18 four bay pole shed 8k for builders labour. I could have possibly done more but now it's done I'm glad it's finished. 10k for concrete which included 5k for the pouring, 2k for labour to help shovel it around and powerfloat, 1k for beveling the face for roller door and house part for drainage, 1k for mesh and maybe $200 for poly wrap insulation under it all. My neighbour had a compactor so I stole his for a day. I should be able to complete my cabin for under 10k by using second hand windows and doors as well as doing everything myself. I still have three bays for workshop for my shitboxes. I spoke to the council and what I can and cannot do and they said just don't put a kitchen down and it will be considered a sleepout. I'm building to code and using proper framing timber/insulation so I'll be fine. Council have noted it on their file and that's that. I'll retire here so I don't really care about resale. Hope that helps.