dmulally

Great to see another crappy old van getting an overdue birthday. I remember whacking a bid on that a long time ago on TM but was never that serious about it. My best advice for COV ownership is to invest in a really good set of noise cancelling headphones! As for getting it back on the road, I'd make an appointment to go see the person at VTNZ and ask their advice. Will likely involve getting a receipt and a stat dec from the plod that it isn't listed as stolen.

Hi All, I have sticking brakes in my s-type Everything online suggests it is the booster. So I unplugged it and it doesn't stick anymore. With it plugged in the pedal is like wood. I have a VH40. I was wondering what is the consensus with rebuilding vs buying new. I'm not interested in a knock off. Had one in my old V8 commer and was a pain. If rebuilding is the way to go, anybody know anywhere that does it? edit: Ignore that. Apex up north had them on the shelf for only a small bit more than the rebuild kit. No brainer.

I just came back inside after doing the back of my commer van. I opted for the usual underlay and shag carpet over sound matting. Reason being it is easy enough to drag out and dry if it gets wet.

So I sorted out the backfire. I changed the spark plugs which were ancient and fouled and adjusted the timing. It needs to be done properly but it runs so much better now. The throttle response isnt instant but revs very strong. Before it just died if you didnt slowly roll on the throttle. I just turned the dizzy until it worked properly.

To be honest, you win by not caring that much. Up close there are usually a couple of runs and there are imperfections all over the place. But buffing helps cover up poor technique and it'll only get ruined anyway. I cut as many corners as possible. I don't even sand down my primer. I just put a little more thinners in it and sand any problem areas. It isn't a good paint job at all but from 5 meters away looks great. That is cool by me. I have too many cars/projects to strive for perfection. I only spray 1.5 coats anyway. Just a quick tacking coat and then a full wet coat.

A lot of long suffering partners out there felt a shiver down their spine when that was listed.

I'll never be able to sell the commer. I spent a kings ransom on the rebuild only to drive the same speed I did before I started. I have a deal for you. I'll swap you the Standard 10 for your morries and you hold onto the morries for me.

Blimey. Forgot about this thread. I need to extract the digit. So on the boil at the moment with my crap: - 66 Chev is at compliance. Engineer is being really good about ticking off little things for me. Drove it around for a while and even with the overdrive auto, the 4.5:1 diff ratio is too short for the highway. Oh well, angry Ford Ranger drivers will have to chill out. I really should have just swapped the Eaton diff for a taller one but as it is meant to be a towcar, it is what it is. - Scimitar is going slowly. I'm waiting for some fuel fittings to come in and then I can change the low pressure pump for a boche 044 and run return lines. I have the cut down wiring loom for the L67 and am presently snipping and tucking the bits in the engine bay that foul the engine. That it is fibreglass is pretty handy. I have the tailshaft done already and the engine mounts are all fully welded. Should have gone the na Ecotect as the blower makes things difficult. After that is running I want to take some time (and money) with the suspension and brakes sorted. The stock brakes when I drove it with the essex were pretty crappy. - Standard 10. I need to get a brake line for the cortina diff and cut down the tail shaft about an inch. Then it is time to get the engine timing set and start the 1200cc's of big block. I doubt I'll even touch this before I move farms later this year. Mainly because even when it is back on the road, I'm not sure what I'll do with it. I doubt I could even give it away. - Commer van is my daily driver now and is loving it. I had some problems with over heating but a scoop sorted that. Now it stays cool all day long. There is a bit of an oil leak from the sump gasket but that is typical for 1725cc's. It isn't too bad. I took it for some decent jollies lately and one of 1000kms in a day. The oil pressure dropped in the afternoon heat but didn't seem to affect it. I fitted some carpets to the front this week in a vain attempt of making it more quiet. I'm all about noise cancelling headphones. They just about keep up. In 6th gear it sits on 2500rpms between 90-100kph. It gets a little hairy at speeds so I like to sit around 90. - Jag 340 is the latest dumb purchase and the list to get that back on the road is long but getting shorter. Thankfully getting parts aren't too hard. I gave it a paint job on Sunday to change the white to blue and that was worth it. Next will be to sort some fuel lines, electrical gremlins, and redo the brakes. - Oliver Dozer. Still doing it's job dragging crap around. When I'm fully set up at the new place I'll fix it up properly as one idler bearing is shot and there are a few small jobs needing doing. Otherwise it has buckets of power but very little weight. Which is the wrong way round for a dozer.

Hi All, Does anybody know how to get a hold of @KustomKreeps? ta

Years ago I got pulled over by the cops for having a bare metal car in Australia. I got away with it saying that I was in the middle of prepping for paint but was told that it has to have a colour. Anybody know if that is the same story in NZ? Or can I clear coat bare steel and call it a day. It is a farm truck.

Thanks, gents. I was in town and popped my head into the cert guy's office and got the lowdown and he confirms it. His note was that if the uni is before the center bearing than it only needs one. A 66 chev has it after so no biggy. Two it is.

Quick question on safety hoops. Do two piece tailshafts need just one next the gearbox or two including an extra one near the centre bearing?

I have the hobby car manual. It doesn't look too difficult. I prefer to buy off the shelf as with my experience with LVV it is easier to show a receipt than to prove what is hidden behind the B pillar. Thanks for the offer! I'll shoot you a flirty PM.

Hi All, I have to get some retractable seat belts for LVV on my C20. Does anybody know of any NZ approved kits that have the mounting brackets I can fizz in to the B pillar and bolt to the floor? Otherwise am I better off just welding a nut to the back of a plate myself? Cheers

Hi Flash, I finally got to test drive my finished commer van. I don't want to pull focus so if you wanna chat about the mods I did that worked and didnt work feel free to shoot me a PM. Cheers Damo

I managed to chat to a copper last night on the way home and he said if you don't give them a reason to pull you over it won't be an issue. Seems fair enough.

Banner on the VTNZ site says they shut yesterday. NZTA just say "Don't contact us". I assume any mechanics open would be for maintaining essential services fleet. Of which my Commer Van is essentially a pain in my arse and is due on the 11th of April.

So does anybody know what the story with WOF's are for the next month? I have three vehicles due and my local VTNZ where I take my truck has shut up shop

You had me at pedo! Sent you a flirty pm.

Lovely ute. I have a 66 C20 that I'm getting close to finishing off but I keep having drama after drama with the gearbox. Where did you get your rear deck cover from? I need one for mine and was going to have the tie down straps one but yours looks so much cleaner.

LVV had me reset my leaf springs in the rear which had it sitting high. So to get it down low I then had to change the tyre profile to rubber bands. Which then needed a diff ratio change to get it comfortable again. I still think it is too tall but good thing about the chev is that there are loads of ratios. My old commer van was V8 and 5 speed. Loved it. As an aside, I looked at the Nissan Vanette as it had cable linkages. Is your radiator in the dog box? If so youre welcome to ping me offline so I can tell you how I go with my various upgrades and scoops etc. If it is up front like the beddy then youre in luck!

Nice van! I've just finished certing my commer van with a lexus 6 speed, rapier engine and chev diff. Massive PITA now it is all said and done. If doing again I would go for a holden 6 and auto box and change the diff/ratio to something taller. The biggest pain was getting the linkages right for the lexus shifter. It took a LOT of fine tuning but now it is done, it can run off the clock. Only thing that needs work is the cooling system. Over 55mph it starts warming up as the air passes below it rather than up into the radiator in the dog box. Probably because I lowered it too much. I'll work on a scoop and aux radiator etc shortly. At 55mph it is sweet though. Good luck!

I put my DC EWP in the front of the Imp and it was fine. I routed the radiator coolant pipes through the body of the imp where the heater lines went rather than over the floor. To this day the worst job I have ever completed on any car. In regards to the lotus 7 overheating I had the same problem on my old 4age PRB. Through a combo of angling the front number plate to channel airflow up (bottom of which was at sump height so if I scraped on a speed bump I reversed out of there), changing to a SPAL fan from the repco cheapie electric fan, and redline water wetter I got it down from 110 degrees in traffic to around 90.

All good

That is what I thought but apparently I need a replacement one if I cannot find it. Which I cannot. Carjam says what it is here: https://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=bbq488&fbclid=IwAR2q5IfEEX5J1-MyxtPaBPMoFgXY2lnr-erYAs4I6vSZzoNCDV82Vk3dnt4 And going to the NZTA site is as erotic as it is helpful and seems to be aimed at repairers who can access their system.