dmulally

Does the digital dash all work? If it works and you like it just terminate it at the fuse box and try and refresh individual wires to the right places. If it doesnt you could always change to a custom analog dash. Would be loads out there to choose from and you'd only ever do it once. The digital dash was prob why it was so hard to find an off the shelf loom. Thankfully being a small block chev you only need three wires or so to run it.

I could park two imps on that! More if they would start to be able to drive onto it.

Oh yeah Id gut that entire loom and start from scratch. With a loom that big I assumed efi/tbi or something. Take one day to gut it entirely. Then a full weekend running each one out one at a time. I prefer American Auto Wire as the wires are a lot softer than your typical Narva branded ones from Repco so you get them out of the way easier. Then you'd never have to worry about it again. I cant seem to find a specific one for 1983 so Id get something generic like this.

I was able to cut off the under-bonnet bracing which made it a little floppy but after the stamping is done I can weld in some box tubing to help out. I've coated it in acid to help keep it from rusting in the meantime. Sadly there was a thick layer of bog on it so it will need a bit of mucking around when it comes back to blend it back in. Dropping it off this weekend so I'll report back when done.

Being an electric motor I assume you could just flip a switch and make it go the other way. With the Thunderstruck control unit that is possible. I think the bigger issue would be battery physical storage. Unless the Leaf batteries can be pulled apart and repackaged or it could take aftermarket batteries it would be hard to fit.

Blimey that is tiny. Who's is that?

Wouldn't mind it if one would fit! If only you didn't sell that Nissan Leaf I didn't know I wanted Hopefully catching up with @cubastreet when he decides to stop holidaying to come up with a plan. I tried fitting the Honda V twin bike engine I had in the parts bin but it is too long. Something I've never had to worry about in my life

GET OUT

Lovely car! What is that loom for? Does it have TBI? I can't quite tell from the pic. I rewired my C20 in a weekend with an American Auto Wire kit. Boring but done and dusted and everything works.

Thanks for the heads up. Seems like a nice guy. For anybody who wants to know: $65 p/hr set up . Marking out , lay-out etc. usually between 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 hours. then $3.oo per louver . Edit: More info Louvers are 75mm wide. Allow 29 mm from the opening of one louver to the opening of the next. Also allow 25mm minimum between rows . Allow 25mm on sides , front and rear for tooling , particularly if your leaving the bracing in place.

So this morning at about 5am I started on the engine removal process. Thankfully in an imp it isn't too hard. I have it held in by a couple bolts presently so it can just sit there for a few days so I'm not tripping over it every five seconds. Check out the forbidden caramel topping. So I'm not in this situation again I'm converting to a front mounted radiator. I've always hated the Imp water pump too so both are getting the boot. I have ordered a davies craig pump. Interestingly it was cheaper from Speed Science in NZ than it was from Davies Craig themselves. I still had to get the correct fittings from them still. Unlike Mr Fancy Pants with his pipes under the floor I'll be using the auxiliary rad pipes I already lost half the skin on my knuckles feeding through the bodywork cavities. Problem was that it was a proof of concept hose line I had laying around (it worked) and I should really replace them with new stuff. That will be the suckiest job that ever sucked. I've had to do it on three Imps now and all three jobs I remember clearly for how shit it was. Another job I wanted to do was prep and paint the parts I didn't get to paint. I'll start with the bonnet area as that is the grubbiest and also I need to get the grinder out due to a radiator going in there. Of which I am having a custom one build by A1 Cooling. Interesting to see how it comes out. I really need to sell this Imp but am approaching (likely past) the point of no return fiscally so I might as well do it properly so it can last another 60 years. The next thing on the agenda to sort out is to add louvres to the bonnet. I don't want to cut out the bottom part which I have done in the past as I want to angle the radiator with a slight forward lean so the hot air can escape out the top. There will be a lot of cutting and welding in there however. Might take the fuel tank out first however. Could get a little sparky.

Bump! Anybody have any recommendations on who can do this in the north island? Cheers

Ok managed to source an engine. Looks to be in pretty good condition. Next on the agenda is to rip out the old one!

TROUBLE IN PARADISE! Whilst bogan tetris-ing my cars round the shed I found the Imp even harder to start than usual (still havent connected the choke yet). I checked the engine and noticed it was low on coolant. I could have sworn I always kept it topped up so checked the dipstick. It was a caramel milkshake in there. Ironically I decided on the weekend that I was going to sell it. I guess I'll have to spend a shit load of cash first unless somebody wants to low ball me an offer I can't refuse on it. Time for Phase 2 of the Imp project to begin.

Jeez that is in far better shape than mine.

Lovely looking truck and thanks for posting. Just wondering if you know the GVM of the 550fg? I'm still not sure what it falls under but I'd be keen to put it through a wof if possible so was going to swap to a single wheel diff.

The way steel prices are at the moment it's almost worth the trip

$10 and 25 mins away.

I couldnt get through to them so put it on the backburner to attend to some dramas with my s-type. I'll just have to keep an eye open whilst doing the rest of the truck as it is holding water for now anyway. Next thing to sort will be the rust. I have bought a door from a 1930's pommy something and pick it up this weekend. Only $10 and cheaper than buying fresh steel from Steel and Tube.

Also the diff has to be swapped. After the power wash and the engine dried off I took it for a drive down the road. First gear is unusable like most light trucks but 4th feels like 2nd. I thought the diff was 4.5:1 but It's in the 6 or 7's. It's able to easily take off in 4th! I might look into a GMC or 9" swap as loads of ratios and easily enough to convert to dual wheels with off the shelf bits. I couldn't be bothered to stuff around with an overdrive conversion. Although the gearbox is green which was news to me. Another thing I have to do is move the shifter. Quite impressive that you scrape your knucks going to second as well as up to third. Not to mention it's behind you so have to find it.

Pretty crappy weather on Sat so decided to make the most of and get the power washer out. Interesting to see what I'm working with.

So managed to get it wired up enough to be able to run again. I have the thermostat housing bolted on as best I can and glued too. One thing I noted is that the corolla housing is pointing another direction to the original. So either I need a new radiator or to redirect the top outlet so it points the right way. Not a biggy. When I drive it inside for some rust work I might have a go at tig welding the broken housing up. Or at least melting the bolt in place. I ran the engine for a good 20 mins to see if the housing would leak and so far so good. I think until I can find a new lower housing to bolt on it will just have to do. All the valves are free and moving too although there is a slight miss occasionally. I think what it needs is a good long run at 2500rpms on the highway to clear the throat. The rebuilt carby hasn't even been dialed yet and starts on the smallest of choke. I'll still have to adjust the valves yet but am in no rush to do that yet.

What's the best way to deal with them? Email, call, visit? It's about 4 hours away from me so I can't exactly pop in easily sadly.

Good shout. The bedford 6's especially are everywhere. I did have a Chev 250 full oil pressure one that I scrapped a year or two back. Bugger. A couple of hours in and the housing hasnt started leaking yet.

Ok slight change of plans. The truck cert guy said I should really really not bother with an engine repower without getting it registered first. I've spent the last day or so researching the TD42 and can only dream. So quick question: What is the neck called that the thermostat housing bolts to? I'll need to find a new one but don't know the name. I'll likely have to shop in England so have to find one. I could always fabricate one but would rather not. The other thing I could do is get a generic pommy 6 cylinder and just hope the VTNZ dude is under the age of 50 when first registering it. To try and scrape through in the meantime I have retapped the bolt holes with a more course thread and jammed some bolts on and glued the t-housing on with right stuff which I have had good luck with in the past. I didn't have the right length bolts so improvised. m presently having it sit cold full of water and I'll check throughout the day to see if it weeps. There is a chunk of cast iron in the water pump so if it stays water tight I'll pull it off and go fishing for it somehow.