Tender Raisin

Time To Upgrade So It failed its next WOF on the front shocks ad ball joints, which I knew was coming. So it was time to start spending some cash money, and finally get the thing low. I will keep all the old parts so if for some odd reason i want it stock height again it can be returned simply. dspec_tt131 from here posted he was parting out his GX61. So I jumped on his modified S13 BC gold struts, to cut out the hassle of building my own. They also came with some RCA's. These have since also been crack tested and are ready for cert. I also managed to get a brand new pair of MX73 BC gold rear struts and springs. dspec_tt131 GX61 I have also pulled apart the front suspension and tidied it up. Replacing ball joints, tie rods, sway-bar links, and bushes. The wheel arches also got hit with some CRC Proseal. Two months till Toyota Fest….. It’s going to be close.

Toyota Fest 2016 I was getting fond of the stock look. Deep Down I wanted it to be Low and on some Wide 14s. But I couldn’t force myself to commit just yet. I planned to drive it to Cromwell for Toyota Fest in March 2016. A week out when I was cleaning it I realised my WOF had just run out. Took it in and bingo failed on rear struts. Managed to get these two days before leaving and got the WOF the next day. This would be it first "big drive" since the cambelt incident, so was hoping everything would run smothly. It loved to drink the fuel however and it didn’t like going over the Lindis Pass. Think it slowed down to 40km/h at one point. Had to let all the angry people in their big SUVs past once I reached the top. Anyway Toyota Fest was a success even got to throw it round 2 laps of Highlands to show its killer body roll. Goal is to get it ready For Toyota Fest March 2018 at Cromwell again.

Tidy Up I am a bit of a perfectionist sadly so I went straight to work tidying little odds and ends. Visors were replaced with some from pickapart as the standard ones were tatty. A dash-mat was made to hide the cracks in the dash. Floor mats were added I sent the car to a friend’s work to suss the rust in the boot. The rear window would need to be removed to get a bit more, but that’s a future problem. The only pieces I know of left are behind the rear wheels and rear window. I also had the rear bumper painted as it was an eye sore. The next job on the list was to replace the cam belt & water pump but I was beaten to it. Stop Right There! Its first journey south to the big smoke of Timaru proved to be an expensive one. Everything was going fine and stopped off home on the way back in Mayfield so I could get laughed at by my father for buying an 80s Toyota. I noticed a faint chugging sound, like the sound of a steam train when it leaves the station. Hoping it was nothing I left home swiftly and headed for Christchurch. 30ks into my journey I approached some road works and slowed to 50km/h. As I put my foot down to get back up to speed nothing happened, the car stalled and I slowly limped onto the side of the road. Thinking it had overheated as the gauge was being funny I let it rest for 20 minutes and tried to start it. It turned over but no luck. Thinking the worst such as snapped cambelt I left it alone. So Swann insurance came to the rescue and moved to car to Ashburton. Since I knew it was going to be a while for the tow truck I was just lying on my bonnet in the sun I had around 10 people stop to see if I was alright on a back road which I thought was quite impressive. Verdict cambelt slipped off. It was old and disintegrating. Luckily The 1g-eu is a non-interference engine so no damage done.

The Good The Bad & The Ugly From inspecting the car all the electrics worked, even the fender mirrors. The interior was mint minus a crack in the dash and the centre vent. Also a small hole in the drivers seat. I wasn’t a fan of the 1g-eu and it was leaking oil from every orifice, fixed to the auto box = a gradual 0-100. The exterior was fairly straight but the paint was showing its age. Stone chips and a few imperfections were apparent but none of this worried me. It was advertised as having no rust apart from some surface rust under the bonnet and 2 spots near the boot. I knew it would have more and boy I was right, yet I didn’t know how extreme till later down the track. A wheel well half filled with water was a bit of a giveaway and prodded around the boot for some clues. A few areas around the boot seal became apparent, but me being me haggled the price slightly instead of walking away. On The way home I also worked out the suspension all round was rooted as the previous owner had removed the springs for the images in the above post above. First Things First Replaced the windscreen Replaced rocker cover and manifold gaskets Add a sump bung washer to stop oil leaking And straight through WOF it flew. I was certain it would get failed on suspension, but some how it got through… so I carried on sailing the roads of Canterbury with some wicked body roll.

haha shit thanks!

I will update the build thread over the next few days/week hopefully. Any thoughts throw them down here. Thanks Raisin.

So I have been scanning Oldschool for a few years but I don’t pipe up much. But since breaking my collarbone a week ago whilst skiing I have found time to finally put together a build thread to hopefully catalogue the cars journey. Model Info Japan import 1982 Toyota Corona Mark II Grande GX61 (pre-facelift sedan). 1G-EU, 2-litre, 6-cylinder, automatic with over drive. Background For the majority of its life it was owned by a Lady in her 70s-90s. She used the car as her daily as I believe and was apparently always garaged. She even wore leather driving gloves, which I still have one of, and resides in the glove box. The other was sadly lost before my ownership. She then passed the car onto her granddaughter’s boyfriend. The car then went through a couple of hands in under a year before finally reaching mine. I brought the Car in September 2015, 2 years ago Why Buy That Piece of 80s Rust? As a kid I always drew pictures of cars and the dream cars were the A80 & A70 Supras. However this then changed at the age of 16 to the Celica XX/GA61, (8 years later this is still the dream car sadly). So I move to Dunedin to study and a certain car catches my eye on my first day down there. A Cream Toyota Cressida Waggon scraping down the main street, ring a bell? I was lost for words, it was fucking amazing. But a guy just down the street didn’t think so yelling out something like “Buy a new car you .....”. After a few weeks I worked out the owner was in my course, and that’s when I meet Zeb. Zeb then opened my eyes up to all the 80s Toyota goodness and Oldschool.co.nz (however I didn’t follow oldschool till many years later). Then I got the Toyota bug. So what’s the first thing to do when you finish studying and have a job…..buy a 80s Toyota that’s what. Also the pictures of the cars potential with some low and some simple SSR mk1s that the previous owner had put up on the sale post pushed me along. Note that the following pictures are from the previous owner. I purchased the car entirely stock. I will update this thread over the next few days hopefully upto where it is now.

So how realistic was assetto corsa to real life? I always wanted a full simulation setup. I also always wanted to run the 350z wheels on my daily altezza, but then it became more a daily and i didn't care about it anymore haha.

I need to modify my rear LCA subframe mounts to run an eccentric bolt, to dial back camber for cert. I put together a document outlining what i was planning to do and sent it my local certifiers way. He was ok with the design i put forward. It similar to the one in the link below (post by al_feinted, about 1/3 down) He got back to me with " Yes this should be tig welded and crack tested, the 2 skin fabricated mount is ok " So I got back to him asking if i should grab a non destructive form from him when i can for the crack testers, but he replied " don't need crack test for rear frame " Has anyone run something similar through cert and know the requirements? Thanks

And that ladies and gentlemen is what happens when you don't look closely enough at things... I didn't even click that 89 - 94 was years. Thanks Chees. still curious about the paint on sticker thing though in case. knowing my luck.

Does anyone Know if crack tested items that are going for cert need visible identification on them to prove they have been for the crack test? Look at link below for the example i am talking about. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/54436-removing-paint-on-a-sticker/ Any help appreciated thanks.

The form from the crack testers states that the welds on the "components with the serial number (insert serial number)" were crack tested. I am guessing that without the serial number being visible on the casing now that they can not be verified as the exact components that were tested when going for cert. May need to add to cert questions thread to get this confirmed.

I have purchased some modified and crack tested adjustable front struts. All the paperwork is there from the crack test, but at a closer look when i received everything, i realized the paperwork has a picture of the base of the strut with the sticker on it for identification purposes. (pic below white sticker) Now upon receiving the strut i have noticed the sticker has been painted over. (pic below grey is primer black top coat) I tried to slowly scrape a corner to see if i could have any success but thought i would see if anyone on here might no of some wizardry that could help me, before i ruin it and have to take them to get re-crack tested. Thanks Mike

Mate that starlet is on point good job. Just curious what paint/underseal did you use and how much prep did you do?

Saw this on the "1G Engine community" facebook page today.

Hmmm thats not a great sign for me then as i was planning on getting in touch with Surfab to get mine done... and im guessing it was being certed at Christchurch? Just had a look on Freshs Build thread to see how his were done and it looks like they weren't plug welded maybe this could be why? (picture from his thread) But this is from 2012

Hi All, Just curious if you re-drill holes for coilovers can this pass a cert/wof or is it weakening the structure and a big no-no? photo as example:

I will try to get along.... if you hear raging lifters it will be me.

Yea haha i know they all tick but just lts just been getting louder and louder, and when you can hear it over your standard speakers it becomes a tad frustrating sitting in traffic with it echoing off the car next to you .

So Hydraulic lifters confirmed as culprit...haven't checked the oil pump yet though, it could also be apart of the problem. So the next step is dealing with the problem haha....Should i: a) use an engine oil flush or something along those lines to try and clean it up a bit inside and through in new oil (drop the oil thickness) and mix in some mbl8. See if that makes a differance and for how long.... b. so someone mentioned to me bleeding hydraulic lifters... has anyone done it? does it fix the problem? or is it just a waste of time?

Any-one know the recommended oil off the top of their head? as for oil gauge i will check tonight. Yeah I was going to try that stuff next but thought i would ask here first before going straight to the temporary fix.

not easy to distinguish where exactly its coming from more mid and rear of the engine close to the top near rocker cover... its a bit of a cunt as its echoing off everything... Why 20-50, thought it would be worth a crack to see if thicker oil would help....thought it did during the drive to Cromwell.... but im back to square 1. Im no motor expert so i wouldn't know.

There usually is a whine as the key is being turned in that area

Alright so i have a 1983 Toyota Mk ii corona with a 1g-eu....auto. 1st problem-Starting. Around a month ago my car just decided not to start (wouldn't even attempt to turn over)...Starter contacts got a freshen up and i thought all was good. But it still occasionally will not turn even if warm? are there any tips or tricks any one knows or what could fix my problem or had something similar before. On one occasion on my way to Toyota Fest a few weeks back, I had been driving for 2 hours pulled over for 5 minutes... went to start it...didn't turn over... gave it a minute tried again and started first go? (car was in park haha) 2nd problem-ticking / knocking So i will let this video explain my problem. So it started ticking occasionally 2 months ago then started ticking more often.... re-done the oil put in 20-50, and drove 1000ks in one weekend (from Christchurch to Cromwell and back for Toyota Fest) without any ticking (I have only driven it 2500ks over the last 10 months)....after that weekend it started ticking again. This is the worst it has been so far. So anything i should really check? Is it rooted and should i just give up on it and start a project build thread and find a 1g-ge and manual conversion haha? Any help is appreciated, Thanks Mike.