HumberSS

Have done 3 weeks of that.. at least when it's on the limiter you can't hear the weird no oil noises. Just got new plugs, synthetic oil and air and oil filters. Here's hoping.h Fuck me half good oil has gotten expensive!!

I read somewhere they gum up the rings and start chewing oil. Gonna try some of the snake oil from repco and see if it fixes it.

Cool. How do.you fix it eating oil then?... Think I got tucked.

Jamieson motors in Taranaki do both car and truck cert it would seem, as they are certing a friend's belts on a camper which is on cof.

Or don't you have a Daimler v8 lurking around too??

What about that TS3 Commer knocker. That thing needs a home. If your dead set on the diesel going into the c20 then perhaps the SB chev ends up in the Morris!

Coil on plug

So I just got an 01 Fielder as a daily, it's got the mighty 1zz-fe and manual box. It's at a spritely 282k, but I have noticed it's a bit jerky under hard acceleration and tbh I would have thought it would return better than 8l/100km. Thinking I will do plugs and air filter, but wondering if anyone has any insight into these and what might be causing the jerky? Maybe MAF, or coils?? Chur.

Always impressed with your metalworking skills, super tidy work.

Good idea. It will be a cunt if I don't anyway.

Yeah I didn't really have much room to play with length wise so just couldn't get the runners as long as would be optimal, mostly owing to the engine set back.

Thanks mate that's def helpful. Cool that you have a Tiger btw. I did consider a 4-2-1 design but wasn't sure on primary lengths etc and kinda just ended up going 4-1 for ease. Although not much is easy about building headers. I put a separate thread up in the tech section and kpr said glass pack straight throughs were also the jam. I am just after a nice burnle, definitely nothing offensive or loud. I think between what the two of you have said I'm getting a good picture of the direction I'll head.

Cool so from your above description you are saying drop it down to 2" out of the collector then straight into some nice big resonators, then from there onwards I can proceed to merge into a 2.5" single and big chambered muffler at the back? That sounds like a pretty good plan. Should I run flexi joints after the headers/before the resonators?

Thanks mate, what do you mean by drop down smaller at the merge? My thinking is that this is essentially 2 x 1.7l n/a 100hp engines side by side, so thinking that 2.5" is a lot of pipe for that...

My worker is building up a 12a to sell, he has a few engines lying about and is a very capable engine builder... His 350hp s1 rx7 convinced me of that! Anyway can see what his plan is re timing to complete?

So I am starting to work my way down the list on my V8 Dyna build, having now finished the headers I'm wanting to know thoughts on designing a good exhaust system for it. I've built the headers using 34mm or 1-3/8" tubing, which essentially matched the port sizes, and these go into a 2.5" collector. I chose the collector size as A) I had some bits of 2.5" pipe, and it felt about right in terms of cross-sectional area. The thing to keep in mind is, although physically the largest engine on the planet, is cubic capacity is way small at 3.4L. it will likely not exceed about 150kw/200hp ish either. Im neither want a droning/raspy POS nor do I want to oversize and lose power. I actually want it fairly quite, but want to maximize the ponies available.. My thinking at this stage is in order to maintain exhaust velocity I need to drop the diameter down to 1.75-2" right out of the collector. My next thought, is owing to space, I'd like to go straight into a (reasonably large) offset in/out chambered muffler on each bank right away. I'm not really sure if that's a good idea though? Often mufflers are further back but I wonder if that's to improve muffling rather than exhaust velocity?? I'm also wondering if pipe diameter is still a bit large? Anyway, I'd then like to come out the back of the mufflers and merge into a single 2.25-2.5" pipe and continue out the back to another muffler at the back with a droopy tip to reduce projected sound. I don't want it whisper quite, but very 'mild mannered'. Think something like a factory poverty spec v8 ss commy. I had actually considered getting a factory system off something and chopping it up to suit, but think that would be a headache.. Love to understand people's thoughts here. Churr.

I would have brought it back if I had the cash and shed space. It was a very easy old car to live with, I probably put 20thou km on it in the 5 or so years I owned it. Surprisingly good on gas too.

Can people jump on my discussion thread with thoughts re exhausts. It's not on the immediate list but I at least want to start planning. Baring in mind this is a 3.4l v8. So 1.7l per bank, my thinking is anything that made a warm 1600 breath would be about right. My preference would be a 2 into 1 system as I don't want it loud or raspy. My thoughts at this stage is to drop down to 2" out of the collector then go into a big chambered muffler on each bank, then merge into a single 2.5" and another muffler at the back. I do wonder if my pipe diameters are still a bit too large though? Could go 1-3/4 into 2-1/4? Anyone who's got an opinion here would be greatly appreciated.

Carrying on, above pics arent quite the finished article but will get some more once the trans is all back together and happy. One of the shit things that many here will know about aluminium and welding is warpage. This thing did that shit in spades. So we ended up about 1mm oval. Enter fossil number 2, aka Wan-ye'. Wan-ye' is my business partner and a toolmaker of full dinosaur status. Showed him the shit and he decided offering it up on the mill and running a boring bar down it would sort. I was thinking lathe. Shot Wan-ye. He clocked up the top half, confirmed the 1mm ovality, then clocked the original bellhousing too and confirmed that,aside from ovality our feeler gauge trick was fucking bang-on. I was very glad to have props from him on this. We mic'd up the trans and set to with the boring bar. We figured if we got 3 points of 'low where material was removed we it would confirm we were clocked up good and that we werent removing too much. It all worked out real good. Pics of welding torch I missed in post above for interest also. Last bits of this update, I yanked the diff out, made a frame to keep chassis rolling, and started toying with handbrake things further. Think I have a bit of a plan here now. Going to Disk Brake Ive decided, found some mechanical calipers from a late 70s/early80s chev that look perfect. If anyone has some of these let me know as Id rather find S/H than pay $300 out of the states... https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1978-Up-GM-Metric-Emergency-Brake-Caliper-Kit,379663.html I havent figured out exactly what model they came on... And just because I love jumping around all over the shop like a schizo, I got back on to body-hole related matters and finished off some welding there. This bit is kinda feeling close now. I wanna finish all the detail around this, get some paint on steel bits, glue some flashings in place then get on to starting the engine cover soonish so it feels like at least on body whole is sealed up. So yeah, next plans are to finish bellhousing tidy up, bolt trans to donk and then finish gbox x-member and driveshaft hoop, both of which have most bits fabbed up for - was just awaiting belhousing goodness. Then its on to diff/handbrake matters which will be a little bit of a head scratcher, and also I want to finish the exhaust. This would effectively render the entire chassis and associated bits complete and ready for blasting and painting.... There is however one major problem with that thinking. Im fucking broke. So I might delay exhaust and handbrake matters and move on to the roof of the box body itself. There are 4000 rivets to drill and replace, and all manner of gluing stuff for weather tightness which will not cost actual money. Also starting paint stripping up there too. Ill keep myself occupied.

Alright time for another sporadic update. Ive just had the week off with Covid and only just now feeling like Im not half dead. wah wah, its my first time so Im a bit of a bitch about it. Anyway,still waiting for that negative RAT test, have cleaned my house as much as I care to and talked to my dog more than any sane person should. Time to entertain the masses with my somewhat productive, slightly rough but achieving foibles of Dyna. Left off last time with headers completed/near completed. Pic of other side here. Looks like it should. I became a little unhappy with my welds on header number one as I was lazy and used the mig and it was kinda playing up. So I ground back the welds and fuse-tig'd over them to make it look a little more pleasing. Passenger side was def nicer off the torch, so to speak. My aforementioned conundrum thereafter was that my header collector was a bit too close to my fuel tank for my liking. Then it dawned on me that the original tank and tank mounts had been fucked with, so I went and revisited those. Viola, they had these bits of C-channel welded on the back side to space them off the Chassis and I actually had enough room to space the tank out this far without fouling body.. As luck would also have it I happened to have an 8m length of the exact same C-channel in one of the steel racks randomly. Fate has its ways, so I sorted that, and welded captive studs to make assembly dead easy too. shitloads of room now bae. Next up started thinking Gearbox crossmember. This is work in progress and I realise I need more pics of what I have done, but this should actually be finished soon so Ill full update that in due course along with Driveshaft Hoop, sneak preview of both below. So the big milestone however was advancing things on the bellhousing front. Previously had got to the state of two pieces requiring a civil union. Some potential ugliness owing to much actual roughness in the cutting process, requiring potentially quite a lot of hot-melt gluing to fill the gaps. Anyway, bit of interweb research took me down the wormhole of appropriate filler rods for welding Cast Alloy. 4043 and 5356 both came up so I went and got a handful of 4043 rods from the local supplier. Ive done heaps of Ally Tig many years ago, but on clean extrusion not durty cast, so I wasnt entirely confident in this space.... My worker however was keen to have a crack though. So we set the two pieces up on the trans as a jig - there was a 0.5mm diameter difference between the two bits so in order to get near perfect alignment we cut up some feeler blades and stuffed them around the edges in 3 spots, pulled everything up with a ratchet strap and had at it. It was fucking hard, like really fucking hard, to get anything resembling penetration. It probably took him the better part of an hour to get 4 solid tacks on an man did they look like shit. So he messaged his old work mates down at Global Stainless in Hawera - who are frankly fucking gods when it comes to welding/fab etc (look them up) and they all just laughed, debated over the alloy etc, waxed about how cunty it was, wished us luck etc. We nearly gave in and took it to them at this point. Then we remembered something.... See about 5 years ago I brought a whole machine shop, and a bunch of random tools. It was, in hindsight the score of a lifetime. I wont piss on about it, its embarrassing. But suffice to say, to this day, case in point, it still continues to deliver the goods randomly when we get in the poo. One of these particular gems that was wrapped up in the sale was this hairy old Induction welder from 1642. It weighs about 400kg. It had the plug cut off it, which we assumed was done for a reason, but on talking to one of the old fossils that worked there for 300 years, he said it was still all good. My sparky didnt want to know about it, but gave it a courtesy glance under the covers and couldnt see much scary there. In fact, on numerous occasions when talking to the old fossil over the years he always said to me, NEVER SELL THAT WELDER. About a year ago I considered it, but I am quite lazy. And I thought It would probably fetch more as scrap due to the massive copper windings in it. Anyway, by fuck was I glad I didnt. So we fired the old bitch up and endlessly twiddles knobs until it started laying beads on an old bellhousing I had laying about. A few things to note about the welder. It has a 10m long torch lead, with a really cool spool gun type torch. We checked the alloy in it, turns out it was 5356... this was used in an old toy factory that used to make cast aluminium dies (Fun-ho here in Inglewood) so, yeah shits starting to make sense. Remember to listen to silly old cunts, they might be silly and old, but they know shit and that 2 hours chewing your ear off is always full of gems. Anyway, it started a bit ugly (actually kinda a lot ugly) but we keep fine tuning the inductance and the thing started signing, and more importantly you could feel and see it burning in to both halves of the bellhousing. The end result is not what anyone would call pretty, but its 100% bonded and totally servicable, and will prob look fine once I hit it with some paint. It took 3 full laps to get enough weld that I was happy. Pics be splainin.

Nice! You brought?

I love this build on YouTube, really simple

+1 for the ts3, man those are one phenomenal engine.

Sorry to post in your build thread, but no discussion thread... What engine is in this? I might have a suitable rad I've pulled from my dyna you could have..

I agree. Smash those plug gaps open to get it sparking properly...