NickJ

Yeah, cheaper than a ryobi vacuum

https://www.number8.bid/auction/853/bidgallery/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAAR2hDFlO7rhPrqJbVky_O3TFkpDF8j588jS9CaTstYXJaCfLlYwShaPF1qg_aem_AZCUPSHNAthxsreAybyxRZ6vUTMx_LqbBg8Vg-O4Q8yDzsJjTyk_E-dev-nLzfpcELdAQQaE4r_MpSUVtQej8ifs

One hour to go and epic deals on all sorts....

Gutted this isn't in my neighbourhood:

https://www.number8.bid/auction/853/bidgallery/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAAR2hDFlO7rhPrqJbVky_O3TFkpDF8j588jS9CaTstYXJaCfLlYwShaPF1qg_aem_AZCUPSHNAthxsreAybyxRZ6vUTMx_LqbBg8Vg-O4Q8yDzsJjTyk_E-dev-nLzfpcELdAQQaE4r_MpSUVtQej8ifs

10 hours ago, HumberSS said:

You run a Morbidelli on Linux too huh?? I disconnected the coarse z on mine and just use the 200-odd travel I need on the servo, if I have taller shorter stuff I just lock off the coarse z where I need and re-zero. Do you run the tool changer? 

Yep, Author 503, what model is yours? 200mm Z would be mighty handy!

The coarse Z I find super useful as I link it to a switch on the control panel, because visibility is terrible, I can clear the work area without stress of breaking stuff.

I only have ~125mm of Z travel which gets tedious if you have a long cutter and retract heights are close to limit switches, hit the coarse retract and not have to look at the DRO.

I've got classicladder and remaps working but having small issues with passing coordinates through from the ini file to have the toolchange working, all the hardware is linking into CL, just one small detail in the coding I haven't figured out! Not too worried, the machine is so capable as is for the peanuts I have invested so far and enjoying slowly learning the whole system.

1 hour ago, Adoom said:

This has me stumped. Can someone stick it in CAD and get the answer easy as?
This is the measurements between the front and rear balljoints... trying to make sure the rear is straight.

LIke that?

If you have spare slots in the fusebox, for the love of OCD, use them! They generally use standard uninsulated female crimp terminals, so easy  

Jaycar are open Sunday  

https://www.jaycar.co.nz/63mm-non-insulated-spade-connectors-pk-10/p/PT4630

Nothing electrically wrong except extreme OCD triggering.

If likely to get wet then terrible and if the fuse blows you will hate past self when the wires rip from the crimp as you struggle for grip to replace.

I still have some strain gauges left over if you want some to have a play with?

21 hours ago, Roman said:

One problem that even virtual dyno has, and it's way less sensitive to this than a strain gauge - Is that any bumps in the road need a heavy degree of filtering. 

If you were monitoring load on a driveshaft or suspension part or whatever, you're going to have an incredibly poor signal to noise ratio.


 

This is where my plans all fell to pieces, could rig up the oscilloscope to read the strain gauges fine but the signal to noise was such that I then had to export the wave form and apply software filters to fully interpret the data which was not really in the scope of opensource, easy or cheap.

I messed about with them a few years ago to measure dynamic loads and gave up when the costs got out of control

Maybe modifying one of the arms to include a commercial load cell for testing might be workable?

"Cheapest" option I found for reading a strain gauge was from harvesting loadcell read outs but the read time was 1Hz or static load only range

For 1kHz+ read, labview hardware was better, but then in the $2k range to set up.

Keen to hear what options come about, must be some diy way to hook them up!

45 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Anyone know where to get this style of strap exhaust mount seen on @Sunbeam's Fiat build thread?

I had a look at Chase but couldn't see anything similar....

 

edit - looks like a Fiat part

If its Fiat and old, then its probably also Lada!

https://ladapower.com/catalog/niva-1600/exhaust-system/lada-niva-2101-2107-exhaust-main-silencer-suspension-rubber-belt-detail

This is my go to for Lada bits if nothing available locally

53 minutes ago, BlownCorona said:

Some of the big push reasons for driverless cars are pretty upsetting. Sure they will have you believe that its because the AI robot is safer and xx% of accidents are due to human error, conveniently never addressing the issue of computer errors. 

One of the major driving forces for the 'need' for driverless cars is that wage costs are the largest drain on profit for companies like uber. they desperately want to offer their service without that gross unnecessary requirement to pay a human who is probably just gonna use that money to buy food or something, yuck, poor people. Also, now that they no longer have to pay that driver, the rides wont cost as much so now they can offer their rides for a lower rate, which of course they will not do because most things in life are priced just below the threshold of tolerance. Uber knows you'll pay $xx to get from the airport to your hotel, so with the disposal of their human drivers they now get to keep all of it. 

I have a fairly good insight into this aspect of the driverless industry with one of my employments development venture of point to point, on demand cable cars. These also being driverless, naturally, except they are confined to their cable network (not a loop but a road map and the cabins can take dynamic routes) and occupy the free air space above roads so nil risk of crashing into cars or children.

Now i don't fully agree with the entire thing, I'm unsure if anyone actually wants it but that's someone else's job. I do know that it solves all the issues driverless cars claim to solve with nearly none of the new, worse, introduced problems. 

inb4 driverless cars is never gonna happen anyway. not ones that operate on the same road as a normal car anyway
 

Fun tangent! Guessing you'd be aware of this one?
https://flemxpress.ch/?lang=en

Checked it out on the recent trip, bit of a novelty over usual cable cars, but not much different in use.

3 hours ago, Nominal said:

Lets hope they don't say it in a hurry if San Francisco experience is any guide.

https://edition.cnn.com/2023/11/08/business/cruise-recalls-self-driving-cars/index.html

Perfect example! They are more than aware of the fact that even if they spend 10 years in-house playing what if, the real world will serve a nasty scenario, finding the acceptable entry level is a tough game. As someone in a shoulder to the auto industry, even I was surprised how far ahead hardware testing was compared to regulatory approval.

New product testing was way easier when we were allowed to send our new borns down the mines to work

Its an interesting topic, from what I gather the sounding technology exists and is awaiting on regulators to say what shape before the added costs are put into production.

Had some good yarns on while in Europe earlier this year with a bunch of engineers who work in the industry, the big push they were on is how driverless cars will communicate with pedestrians, how will the car communicate either it has seen you and is waiting for you to cross or hasn't seen you and will keep on driving.... 

Fair amount of cool tech they have running now but every manufacturer is pushing on governments to say yes you can have a driverless car, it just has to pass this this and this test.

Big ol Chicken and Egg.

More than happy to help cnc some MDF forms if thats the path you take

23 minutes ago, Hyperblade said:

Do you think it would be possible to do the duct and the plate as one piece in carbon/fibreglass? Does it have to be machined afterwards to give the tolerances required? Can you use PLA as the one time mold or does the resin eat it?

Anyone you recommend in Chch for the carbon/fibreglass work?

Correct, was planning to do this myself (i have limited experience), but running out of time before race day and current thinking is to take a step back do a proper job on this.

Yeah/Nah/Maybe

Not really an easy short answer cos the variables are huge in composite design, more shape complexity just means more nasty tooling design!

With CF, rule of thumb, anything under 2mm precision needs post machining, of course with specific part experience and process/tooling/layup development that can be shrunk but this is a safe start for a one-off.

If I was making this for you, I would be going for a sheetmetal solution first to get further clarity on air flow requirements, its a dicky subject so before investing in tooling and materials, getting a good idea the plan works (just heavier) is a good start, Aluminium also gives great track day modification options when things don't work out as planned! In one day I could CAD and manufacture both left and right from 0.8mm Al sheet. In one day of design for carbon i'd be lucky to be unloading the first tool from the mill.

As for manufacture, not currently sure who would take this on sorry, most of the suppliers I have worked with would want to be making 100s. Technically I have all the gear here to do it, (mould making, vacuum pumps, ovens etc) but the cost might be prohibitive? 

Are you still WFH? i've got plenty of free time, happy to discuss in depth over a coffee/beer

I've designed and had made exactly this from carbon, it can be done and CF is no dearer than the other options, its the tooling, time and consumables that add up...

Fiberglass would probably be fine, its the resin system that generally defines service temps, no real structural reason to use carbon over glass either.

I love sheetmetal, cheap easy and fast, thats where i'd be leaning as a first off, a diffuser cone to go from the 3d print to feed duct desn't look too hard? Not too hard to CAD, print A3 and then cut out.

Whoever wins the lathe looks like they will get tooling for the drill-mill also

Baby mechanical jebus weeps

11 minutes ago, tortron said:

Bicycle sprocket m8

 

Our stove top actually came with a cast iron one stock,but nowhere else I have ever taken my coffee pot has ever had one

Thats pretty much what I initially tried, down side was it soon warped and triggered a deepdown ocd, off to reinvent the wheel I go...

Giz cast adapter

On 05/04/2024 at 16:11, dmulally said:

I'm about to get the landy vapour blasted as it has too much bog and house paint on it. It has been an eternity since I have painted a car in bare metal and I'm not sure I have ever done alloy panels. Is Epotec primer still a thing? 

 

I used epotec 408 on some panel repairs to the Defender cos its all I had a the time and its still sticking.

Think @nzstato had some fancy aluminium primer for his?

7 minutes ago, nzstato said:

Hello friend….

Just pop over with a box of beer if you need stuff profiled  

Depending on the job might need two boxes, gotta run it slow or the mdf starts smouldering!

Was excited for wof achieved update, bummer for the plug thread  

30 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

How did you hold the sheet metal in place?

 

I've found the chinese small carbide end mills last 15* longer when using some coolant with them. You'd be surprised how few linear metres of cutting a 2mm end mill can do before it goes blunt. Still cheaper than paying a dude with a laser cutter though.

Basic clamps to start with, first op pre drill rivet holes and use these for extra screws. second op draw fold lines, can throw in additional screws in scrap material here too, third op chop out.

Used cutting fluid to start with but settled on backing off feed rate and using crc + nozzle extension cos easier.

Chinese carbide is 100% the go for DIY, this is awesome for my pottering about, i'd still go laser for multiple parts though.

1 hour ago, igor said:

Come anyway Nick. Someone'll give you a ride.

99% sure i'll be there, just with one income and the new garage build on, discretionary spending is currently limited.