holdenman

Thank goodness to good rear brakes or there would have been bikes on top of each other on the surprise water crossing, I could barely see the track at times as the rain ruts were so deep. But across the top just before lunch stop was a fun thats no rain rut... thats a skid mark from the massive rear tyre of a CT! that water crossing came up fast eh

Conservation award to Bart - For attacking the blackberries

Do your water testing for the coast https://www.facebook.com/reel/1302307817646063

I sold my RGV the day before SYDS but because I am a Boomer have now got a 1980 bike to do this on.

Put a safety strap around your neck, I mean nothing could go wrong!

I will be doing it again. I have a choice of bikes now but might sway with my little RV75

This has the typical misread speedo on the WOF check - Early Holdens (even with a trip meter) only had 5 digit + 1/10 so someone put the 50,000km as 500,000 but I will make sure it gets righted by the next one.

Unloaded some bits out of the boot and checked for rust, a bit of surface rust on a guard and on the metal plate for the tow bar so wire brushed and sprayed with rust treatment. I will vacuum out and wash clean once we get a sunny day. First stage accomplished, WOF and Rego done. The Marketplace engine and box I have in it turns out may be a series 2 engine which is perfect for boosting as it has the additional water and oil plugs. I read somewhere all the S2 blocks had bungs where the turbo That's a bugger as the one i I have prepped is series 1, at least I know exactly where to drill and tap the good block. I will start with a decent clean soon but removing the sub, amp and a Raptor Farad Capacitor? plus the spare parts has taken a bit of weight out. Not sure what i will do with sub as I will unlikely put it back.

I have been swatting up on various similar builds and I feel I have a basic grasp on the job at hand but I have a very skilled mate who is a top mechanic and race car engineer to help and give me general tips although he has not had experience with RB's but the internet is full of great information on this type of build.

Finally found a clutch rated for the expected torque and not full on/off aggression, it is supposed to be somewhere in between a road and a track. I never knew you could get this type of clutch plate, are they common?

The Pistons and Manly rods and stainless valves, the guides are brass and the ports have been worked so nicely!

Build it and they will come!

Thanks, guys, I have a new upgraded collar and read up a bit and many were using the same oil pump I bought, I will get an aftermarket damper as I will likely do a few track days but nothing too strenuous. The engine has had the works thrown at it, I gave him my list as I wanted something strong and lasting, I am not grouting it so it should be able to keep temps down as well. I see some half grout or fully grout the blocks depending on use but I am not that serious about big power and will run the manual until I need to run the powerglide. I have been trying to accumulate all the odd sods for plumbing and breathing etc too as I read they require it. The crank pulley is good advice and I noticed them offered as an aftermarket part which made me think they needed replacement. I will order it now. I will run the stock trigger for now as it will probably need to sell another bike to afford the kit.

From what I believe about the Harmonics I could get away with the franklin upgrade collar on medium power maybe 600hp and 7k limit but if I want to chase big power I am gonna need more revs and that will require a girdle and oil pump gear drive upgrade. People talk about the additional torque through the rev range on the RB30 so I hope it will rip with the kelford 'F' cam and the head work. What was your thoughts as I would love some constructive ideas

I am learning and trying to learn what is required and I can see it is going to be a journey with a lot of details needed to get a good result. Using the manual box will limit the boost but that will be the 2nd target as putting the motor together and in is the 1st. I am still waiting on the pistons to arrive so the compression can be worked out, before I pick up the motor bits Another couple of bits arrived.

More bits. Steel-Moly flywheel and Zx300 Turbo Box

Bristling with worn out clearcoat and on the roof and boot worn out paint. The one bit of trim missing above left front bumper I need to find. Uber lovely 1980's interior Rev counter on the dash as well as the stock dash one! Oh and the small diameter steering wheel! Who needs to oil change. I need to modify to allow better drainage and breathing, xorst looks good, lets hope it lasts.

Things have been progressing, I have a few minor issues to sort before she is on the road as a standard version so I can put a few k's on the clock to make sure everything is ok. The parts are building up and I made some more room in the garage by selling one of my bikes and plan on taking another back to its owner. I picked up another couple of heads as I needed good rockers as the ones in the stock engine had some rust from sitting 8 years in storage and as I have upgraded to heavier springs and plan to spin the engine up to 7500rpm its better to be safe than sorry. I have most of the main stuff sorted but still require some mods to the engine cover for better breathing and oil drains etc, I have another sump which I will increase oil capacity, baffle and add return lines into. The Carrillo pistons have 2 valve recesses in them instead of the standard 4 valve ones which is standard for the RB30 and the Valves are bigger Stainless Steel units for maximum efficiency and to handle the additional heat. Porting to match the valves has been done and an aftermarket plenum. I have a billet Kelford Camshaft that's rated at 650hp and with the mods should be capable of this without using crazy boost so should be reliable at this but to start I will run the lowest boost possible

Yep, one of the reasons I bought it along with 1980's plush holden red seats and obligatory cigarette burn hole between the drivers legs.

I will need a bit of advice along the way as I don't have the experience with high powered turbo builds or RB30's although I have learnt a lot. RB30et, head is getting the full treatment(I can go into deeper), Carrillo special pistons and high end forged rods, ARP everywhere and some nice bits on either side of the block Manual box is only good for about 300hp, diff is slightly better and I would say the driveshaft similar, a clutch to handle the torque is not affordable. I plan to run a Powerglide with high stall, maybe 4000-4500 but will talk to an expert this week. Diff most likely will be Hilux to begin with.

So my latest project is the most ambitious I have ever done, I started off with wanting 500hp but the head has come along so well and is still on the flow bench and will be capable of 1000hp. I plan on introducing power progressively so I can upgrade all the weak parts prior soI am still along way off yet but it's coming together slowly.

I sold it a while back and it was a TM replica using a TS125 with TM style plastics. I will have forsale an '81 PE250 which is in great original condition and can be registered for the road. They are easy as to get more power out of them as the RM piston is a start and the porting is quite mild on them. Alas I will have to sell off a few of my bikes as I am in the middle of a major car project and need some $$

85kmh flat but cruise at 80 and up dyers pass rd from columbo at 60 so not too bad on hills