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Posts posted by fletch
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What kind of solar inverter have you got? Is it panels => 230v? Or is it panels => battery => 230v inverter?
You can't run the first option without some kind of battery storage.
Usually on a little cabin like that, you have the incoming earth bonded to the metal part of the structure as well as wired to all the power points.
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Nissan didn't come through with the goods on the fuel line clamps. I got 2 out of 9 and it appears they are discontinued so I'll have to refurbish what I have.
Fuel tank is in
Next is the turbo water lines. I wanted the return to go straight to the radiator. Only rb26 goes to the water outlet on the inlet manifold. All the rest of the RB turbos go back to the heater return around the back of the block.
It's pretty busy behind there on a 30 due to the extra height, so I made up some hard lines using the left over 3/8 tube I had.
Water feed here under the manifold.
The return snakes behind the timing belt cover.
I tapped a hole into the water passage under the inlet manifold. Thankfully it was cast in Japan out of recycled datsun cylinder heads, not old cans by that barefoot Indian guy on those Facebook videos.
I need a p clamp on one of the pipes and then I can put all the covers on and chuck the engine in.
Maybe another few weeks..
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On 19/09/2023 at 15:21, Bearded Baldy said:
Question for the cert guru/s.
On the old falcons i can buy a rear swaybar kit. Ubolts onto the diff and requires drilling through the chassis in factory spot to fit the upper link mount.
Would it be certifiable to make 3mm steel mount plates to weld to the diff, and instead of drilling the chassis to weld the link mounts on?
Am trying to find a decent pic online to show the setup...
Sounds like that's always been there from factory.
Especially since it's the same colour and covered in road grime and what not from many years of driving etc
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Next chob is the fuel tank. I had a factory tin tank that went rotten with old fuel so I got a larger plastic gtr one cheap a while back. Also can use early 4wd turbo stagea tank for far less gtr tax.
But as its larger the straps don't reach.
@tortron will be pleased to hear I used the front half of a wingroad tank strap welded to the rear gts4 strap
There were pretty much both the same. Fortunately the 4wd body has the captive nuts for both sizes of tank so it was an easy fit. Will paint them tomorrow and that's a job done.
I got some cupro-nickel 3/8 line for the fuel lines. I ran it where the old hicas lines go. They were long gone when I got the car which is a shame as they can be adapted to use as fuel lines.
I did have an old 3/8 bundy fuel supply line that I made years ago but it is also full of shabby fuel and gone all crusty.
Ethanol sensor about here in the return line
Done
Some of the factory clips are stuffed so I have ordered them.
Just need to put fittings on the end of the tube and it's done.
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Here's a 45deg fitting not screwed in.
A "short" time later
Purchasing the rips sump adapter vs using my own original one just about paid for itself in not having to remove and clean up all the rtv, then reapply it in the correct rfb manner. Red, and about 5x more than necessary so it can squeeze out everywhere incl the oil pickup.
So that's all back together. Maybe tomorrow I'll make up the turbo drain line and vct drain.
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From factory the front springs are longer on the drivers side. Maybe swap the springs from side to side to even it up?
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Found some down at my local everything pipe and fitting related. They didn't even know they had it, but I recognized the bag up on the wall from a distance as the one Tori posted.
7 hours ago, tortron said:Is bundy unacceptable?
I have used steel bundy previously, but I'm being a princess and want the shinier stuff.
I had also heard the kunifer was easier to bend, but a quick test on the shit I have bought says otherwise.
Now I need one of those wheely straightener things. I'll either buy a few sliding door rollers, or old m8 @Bistro reckons a bit of wood with a hole drilled in it. He can demonstrate on Wednesday for me.
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Does anybody know where to buy kunifer/ cupro nickel tube 3/8 diameter? I have found 3/16 and 1/4 but not 3/8. Im off to visit an old barry about it shortly but i dont like my chances
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5 hours ago, mjrstar said:
Steam
You need to whip down the cemetery and dig up an old steam barry......
Can be really hard to tame. Steam/condensate is harder to deal with than hydrocarbons i think.
How much are you allowed to delve into it? We had a troublesome vessel that we couldn't see or measure the oil/water interface with the existing nozzles and level measurement, so i made a probe that could be inserted with 3 different tappings to sample the liquid from 3 levels at once.
Can you break the flange where the steam is coming in and insert a baffle/deflector into the vessel that changes the way the steam enters? It could be welded to a rod on a flange ring that is sandwiched in.
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4 hours ago, mjrstar said:
Ok science nerds, I think I know the answer if I have a tall pressurised cylindrical vessel (25+bar head) 1/2 full of water with a drain at the bottom is it the same or more or less susceptible to vortexing than the equivalent tank without the head of pressure?
Potentially worse due to the possibility of having gas entrained in the liquid.
We put vortex breakers inside our separators above the outlet pipework and it helps but not cures it.
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5 hours ago, Truenotch said:
The lifter arrangement in this engine is really interesting. Pretty sure the RV8 was designed in the USA, so they must have rockers ingrained in them.
2 hours ago, Roman said:Yeah lots of interesting things in those pics. I wonder if thats just lighter or more reliable than a bucket setup?
Looks like it allows a pretty wild ramp on the cam.
Maybe lighter and less friction than a bucket. Smaller valve stem/lighter spring?
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Installed my old swagelok tube I made up for the vct feed. Not sure if I'm going to keep it. It's tee'd into the oil pressure sensor.
Then a quick tune up on the exhaust manifold as its hits the block in a few places on the rb30.
Got the turbo and wastegate fitted for a measure up.
Then another step backwards. In order to fit the oil drain fitting for the turbo, I need to take the sump off so I can wind it in. There is not enough room between the front axle flange and the block to get an elbow in. Hopefully I can get onto it this week.
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2 steps forward, some back.
Turns out the arp studs I reused were not ideal. I bought them 15years ago when I first built the engine. I didn't know any better, but did notice when I stripped the motor the nuts were right down the thread and hitting the shank of the stud. When I put the head on I measured and did some quick research and the conclusion was to run a stock washer under the arp one.
Some further research and it appears the studs are also no better than stock bolts. So some more $$ thrown on the bonfire and I got some arp2000 studs.
Plain studs have ARP ARP on the ends and arp2000 studs have ARP 2000 on the ends.
They are also the correct shorter length
And come with the correct diameter larger washers to suit the head and bigger nuts to boot.
Got some new studs for the exhaust and double nutted them in.
Bonus photo of my modified bearing puller.
Whoops, I guess I had a few more beers than I thought. Did the job tho. I was using a 1mm cutting disc...
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Would you not be better making/buying longer bottom arms?
I would think longer arms are better for rear geometry?
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Diff went together ok. I'll have to do skid once I get it going to make sure it works.
Got the head on tonight.
Had to port out those water gallery as I welded up the vct oil feed to the head and built up the water port to move it closer to the rb30 block port.
Vacuum taped onto the port outlet and I got no swarf off the grinder which was a first for me.
Then head gasket needed to be modified. One of the brass crimps was going to get squashed between the block and the head. I drilled it out. Seems ok still..
It looked like this.
But then it was gone. The block already has some clearancing from my last build. The exhaust manifold hits on these ribs
I got the machinist to hot tank the rocker covers. Im stoked with the work he did. They came out brand new.
Just need a bunch of little things then I can put the engine in the car and waste more money in hoses and fittings.
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Overnight parts turned up after a month yesterday so snuck out to the shed for a few hours.
One of the reasons for waiting on the parts was is that pulling the pinion bearing off to get to the shim wrecks the bearing.
Turns out, if you have the correct tool it doesn't. I didn't have the correct tool, but after a few beers and some time staring at it, I realized I just needed to remodel my gear puller with the grinder and I could get it under the bearing cage without damaging it.
The spacer and washer needed to be the correct length between the bearings. The spacer is not a crush type so it took a heap of assembly and disassembly and swapping parts to get it right.
Many times on and off with this flange.
Backlash mint.
Then I realized it was 1.30am and there were empty bottles everywhere.
Today sucked, haha.
Hopefully box it up this weekend, then the head can go on and the engine can go in.
Much excitement
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Double post.
Got the English dash conversion for mine for a couple hundy in chch.
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On 19/08/2023 at 21:21, Doug Hill said:
LS was lush
My old man had a LS 460 F sport. Maybe 2015ish. Like you said above, but had the adjustable suspension so could be full boat spec or pretty sharp. Had enormous brakes and needed them.
Sold it to some larrikin in the Waikato for low 30s late last year. Was a bargain.
10 hours ago, Rhyscar said:Yeah NZ new for Lexus models are way better for multimedia. I think 2012? onwards screen can be converted to english (on the GS anyway), OR you can upgrade screen using 'Tesla' style screen for around $1100. Comes with all the right trims and integrates with climate controls etc. Quite a popular conversion.
+1 for GS life. Honestly the best car I've ever owned even at 250,000kms. The 4th Gen (2012 onwards) is much superior to the earlier ones in interior quality/multimedia and looks. Mechanically pretty much the same, but has port & direct injection.
On another note, I had first towing experience in it last week bringing WRX back from Whangarei. Handled it like a champ. Made great doorty noises through tunnels....
One thing to note with 4th Gen GS's is the Hybrid ones are 8-speed CVTs, whereas GS350 is 6 speed auto (same as previous). I don't know if the CVT's have a tow rating. GS350 with 6 speed auto has 1600kg tow rating.
I have a 3rd Gen 6 speed. Tows so well. Was cheap. Does good skids when pressed.
I think Lexus says you can't tow with the cvt ones. The towbar is only for carrying your e-bike to the vineyard drink and ride.
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Current job is the front diff. I should have done it before bolting it to the engine but I was waiting on overnight parts from Japan.
Here's my pinion preload gauge
Got the pattern nearly there, but it's not perfect and the backlash it too tight so I'm waiting on more overnight parts from Japan. Currently sitting at 32 nights, but could arrive tomorrow. Fingers crossed
As it sits now. Head gasket had arrived, but can't put the head on or it will be too hard to turn on the stand.
Also found another sump, front diff, and transfer down the road for cheap so thought I better hoard them......
Hopefully an update in a week. I would like to get it going before Xmas and on the road in Feb
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Wow, time flies when you're on OS.
So I got the transfer back together and put it on the back of the box ready to go in. I'm suspicious of the gearbox, but don't want to open another can of worms right now so I'll ignore it.
Next job was to adapt the 74mm ethrottle body to the inlet manifold. Adapters are not common (=expensive) for this application as most people run the bigger throttle so i got a bit of Ali plate and a holesaw and some backyard machining later
Just needs a polish and it's done.
While doing this I remembered that my China plenum was actually a dog and I did some shitty things to make it fit and also not leak coolant through the casting. I found a genuine one online for a good price and the quality is far superior.
Got the head back recently so it's waiting to go on.
Just need to port the water bypass port in the head as I welded it up to suit the rb30 block. You can see the weld where the water port was. I think I'll get in here with a die grinder and vacuum cleaner to catch the swarf. Hopefully it will work out.
I dropped the fuel tank and it was fucked. Has been sitting for maybe 12 years and was maybe 1/2 full when parked.
Fortunately I had found a gtr plastic tank a few years back. 72L vs 55 or 60 so a good improvement.
Picked up a walbro 525 L/hr fuel pump to go in. Hindsight says I probably could have gone for a 460 but now I can run e85 if the opportunity arises without needing more pump.
Surprising how much smaller it is than the stock pump.
Got some more goodies for the fuel system too but no photos yet
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18 hours ago, cletus said:
@sheepers Another thing to consider is how high the hoist goes. A gentleman of your stature may enjoy a hoist that has slightly more altitude capability
If you are interested i can give you a number for a bloke who can supply a hoist that is single phase and is better quality than a motorex, from memory they are made by heshbon to his specs, you are welcome to come and test drive my one
Highly recommend the extra height for tall people. Mines not quite high enough tbh.
Better than lying on the floor still.
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15 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:
The problem I see is, if the cylinder miss fires, theres nothing to pull the piston down the bore, and it would lose contact with the wavy thing. From there, theres probably no recovery? Also I dont get how it starts without the combustion to keep the follower in contact with the ramp???
I'm surprised your favorite method of combustion chamber pressurisation has not entered the chat...
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When I was living in Oz they were building box trailers with this honeycomb kind of plastic stuff that looks similar to that stuff you have.
It was strong as shit and they were just gluing and pip riveting aluminum angle to the joins. I forget what it was called but could be a good weight saver and more resistant to denting?
I forget the name of it, but the camper trailer crowd were all over it
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3 hours ago, yoeddynz said:
How about this 3 channel ignitor from a Mitsubishi Galant v6.
They run a 3 coil setup. My mate used one with mitsi coils on his rb30det with good results.
You can have this one if you want it. I hoarded it 15 yrs ago to do the same but never got round to it.
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Q for the sparkys
in Tech Talk
Posted
If you are plugged into the inverter it's basically a closed system. An earth peg is not necessary.
If you have rcd's in your hut, you should bond the inverter body to an earth peg and ensure the earth and neutral is connected inside the inverter.
It can, but it shouldn't be done inside the DB of your hut as then it can't be plugged into a mains connected supply without causing rcd rcd tripping issues.