vk327

had a couple hillman hunter rear drum cylinders stainless sleeved and rebuilt with new seals and i think pistons at apex in hamilton, was about $75 each side from memory

3/8 unf for the manifold studs, i think the fuel pump is 1/4bspt might be npt cant remember which thread tape will make up the gap its only low pressure

is the map sensor in a position where moisture can condense in the vac line and sit in the sensor? best practice to  mount with the line facing down so  water wont sit in the sensor , it sounds like you got a faulty sensor tho,  being link  you  can run damn near any  map sensor with the known calibration,  MSEL  stock a good 3 bar bosch one iv used a few of  https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/SENBOSMAP3

Fyi those bosch 3 chanel ignitiors need a decent sized heat sink, i cooked one testing ignition on a small piece of ali, also be wary series 1 3.8 square coils are prone to failure.

That efi throttle body setup off the falcon looks like it  should work pretty good on the carby manifold.

on another note i take it the trigger wheel showed up 

Switched to ground is pwr mode un grounded is eco mode. From memory your ecu has a performance tune loaded with a modifed trans tune 

https://www.efihardware.com/products/2344/Injector-Boss-Screw-In-Aluminium

be better to  weld or tap in injector bosses above the ports and not have fuel dropout issues that  throttlebody injection has,  efi hardware in ausie do a bunch of different style bosses and also individual injector rail fittings (PS the crank trigger will be on its way as soon as the courier actually picks it up)

Just now, tortron said:

Would a commodore coil pack work, I have one you can have for free. Take the crank angle sensor too

Commodore ones would work but a pain to wire up as they are designed to fit down on the dfi module base with tabs sticking up on the base for the connections, the au coil has a nice 4pin plug and about $90 new for a bosch one 

Au 1 falcoon coilpack is the go for a wasted spark setup, along with a bosch triple channel ignitior from a volvo makes an easy setup, nounted my coils on heavy ali angle with the igniter bolted to the bottom using the ali to heat sink, also used a ba falcon VR sensor for the crank pickup, sensor type will depend what ecu you use tho, also check out thesonic injection throttlebody injection stuff for the 9 port 202

@chris r i have a spare 36-1 trigger wheel for 202 balancer i used with my link atom on the vk build @flyingbrick done the cad file and got it cut for me, if you go that route with efi, flick me a message if you wanna know more about the efi stuff on the 202

Some custom purple pearl mix its got a red and blue pearl in it, gonna be a pain in the butt when i needa touch up the paint

The guy we brought it off was an apprentice at a panel shop, was his 1st car, (he didnt wanna sell it but had it sitting for 5 years after being told he couldnt drive for medical reasons)wrote it off twice and fixed it both times, 2nd time he bare metaled the car inside and out and spent 11k on the paint according to the receipts we got with it, 

Discuss here

Go ahead ask build questions or comment here 

Build thread 

Pics of the water heating and 32/36 on a redrilled hollley adapter 

if you havent got a carb yet check out palmside.co.nz, they  sell  the 32/36  weber new for a reasonable price new, also  if you have the ability to weld a water heating tube to  the bottom of the manifold for anti  icing, done that to  the redline manifold i had on my hq 202  made a huge difference to not having cold fuel pool in the manifold, was running a new 32/36dgv from weber specs,  that and the vk electronic dizzy  worked well on the old 202

vk thru vt 86 thru 2000 commodores all have center cv joints v6 and v8 are all the same cv joint, 21r series u joints at the ends

$500 for an alternator is dare,  300-350ish retail(depending on model)  thru my panpacific account for a new mitsi alternator

The same size or even a 3 kw single phase motor is no good on a screw type hoist, ask me iv tried it even with gearing down the drive pulleys it stalled the 3kw 4 pole motor could  only lift a mazda6 on the hoist about 600mm off the ground, single phase just dont have the same torque a 3 phase motor has, @Kimjon im gonna guess that motor you have is star wound only for 400v (looks real similar to the one i had), if it could be hooked up for delta windings it could run on a single phase in three phase out 230v vsd but would lose torque due to the lower line voltage. Flick me a message if you have questions about motors and power calcs (im an industrial sparky by day)

yeah the axle tube flange ends are the same on both sailsbury  and borg warner diffs,  just  the thickness of the backing plate that affects the bearing/seal depth,  from memory the axle flange offset is the same 

can be done. need to change to the disc rear end axle bearing and seals they have a different seal width to accommodate the difference in backing plate thickness, bearings and seal kits from vk v8 sailsbury commodore should work

Can do these for $70 inc grab steal and take(gst) and delivered to you, they come in 3 sizes for each of the DTM DT and DTP terminals 

Just now, spiderwebfx said:

TBH most of Jaycar's products are China spec items that have been branded.  I've compared a few things from them and Aliexpress/Wish and they're identical but cost about 10x as much.
If you want Deutsch connectors, Repco can do the Narva ones, and can also get Hella ones. They're great but expensive.

Jaycars auto electrical stuff can take a flying leap into the bin, genuine deutsch  connectors are actually  quite reasonably priced (given i do have wholesale prices from non retail suppliers) ,  just dont buy them from retail outlets like repco , for anyone interested I  can price them up  along with the budget home level proper 4 indent crimp tools