4AGEMAD
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Everything posted by 4AGEMAD
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Has anyone used this Finex FX3000 paint gun? http://www.amazon.com/FINEX-FX3000-1-3MM-HVLP-GUN/dp/B001C74C5E/ref=sr_1_cc_4?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1432809718&sr=1-4-catcorr&keywords=Sharpe+FX3000+HVLP I'm wanting to spray my car, homemade booth, low cfm compressor (approx 8.5cfm). Any other gun ideas for spraying 2k will be appreciated. Already have a cheapo gun for primer.
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Thats one long tomorrow.. ^ Done a few things here and there but am still eagerly awaiting the completion of my gearbox adapter then she's all go. Got rid of the rising sun, goal is to get the engine and bay as clean & clutter free as possible. With the hydro tensioners being prone to failure I decided to drill a hole, let all the fluid out, tap the hole and loctite a bolt with a lock nut on. Thanks to a misunderstanding on the machinists behalf I now have a pair of hub rings, this is used to secure the brake rotor rather than using nuts and bolts which would've been suffice but cant complain. Dont have a before pic but just imagine these used to be on a boganed up, RfnB, matty b'd kp and some hua decided it'll be a great idea to cut the wires off leaving 1mm to spare and painted the lens' solid black.. Thanks for reading
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Show off, haha. Can vouch for that Falcon, was pure beast in person.
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Hopefully this can be of use to someone or other. I missed out the first few pages as it was useless jargon. https://www.dropbox.com/s/hasmc8sxbalmngy/W57%20repair%20manual.pdf?dl=0
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Im getting another arm..
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yes it is, though the bugeye does look a bit different to the non bugeye arm. I did notice a slight change in camber just by looking at it but I cant proove that. felt if I can use the arms plus the adjustable tophats to reset correct camber id have slightly more track but I spose lower offset wheels can sort that. Might try do some measurements if I can, be interesting.
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I did see speak of normalizing then annealing the cast but yeah just pritty pissed as the dude said the arms were "practically new", then got them home and put aside till now.. Unfortunately, same as nearly all of my kp stuff the part numbers show as non existant haha, second hand is me only option. But thanks all who put in the good advice. Much appreciated. Edit* read through that bulletin cletus, interesting write up. Yes it is the ones in my thread, all makes sense now cheers man
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Oh is that right cletus, I figured that was the go now with this. I realise were going a bit off topic but am I still in the shit show with my front suspension yet having the above work done? Going for a certification that is.
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Crikey this got outta hand lol The reasoning for the whole thread was to get advice from an experienced engineer in whether or not there can be a safe way in straightening a cast steering arm. I do realise it is illegal by the books, but same with welding your steering hubs to coilovers, UNLESS it is welded by someone who knows what theyre doing and is crack tested. Which brings me to another question, could it at all be non destructively crack tested to ensure its safety or is this a whole different path?
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Cheers mate, ill stick with factory to keep the geometry right. I sourced a local who has just one but its the bloody rhs not lhs.. my luck
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Well thank you as this is the type of thing I was looking for But no one had said anything prior. @kpr, using a non bugeye lca with a bugeye arm inscreases its track and camber
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Somewhat lol, what would you suggest? Cause it beats trying to find/buy another set a this point
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sheepers 1977 (i think, could be 76) Toyota Celica TA23
4AGEMAD replied to sheepers's topic in Project Discussion
Fully appreciate how much of a c@#t pushing out your rear guards is to do. did you end up plug welding the old spot welds in the lip? -
Thanks rookie, good to know that there is confidence in what I have done. Funny thing was is that my old work mate who does my wofs was helping me out so no issues there haha. Its still not perfect but it will do, was hitting the sway bar coming up to full lock before. See how it turns out tomorrow.
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So long story short ive only just noticed that one of my bugeye knuckles is bent about 10mm out. Before I start making a mess of things tomorrow itll be appreciated if one of you engineering whizzes can give give me a few tips. I have access to an oxy/acetylene torch etc at work.
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Thanks Brennan This is what i used on the throttle bodies and other parts, universal aluminium is the colour. Works really well, can also use this as a base coat then run a different colour metallic over it for that 'candy' look.
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PROGRESS!! Thankfully everything fits as it should, was worried the clutch m/s was going to be in the way, striked lucky there Diamond in the rough.. On a downer I found more rust...decided i'm just going to por15 the f@#k out of every patch of rust on the body and be done with it. Bring on tomorrow!
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Replaced the injector seals tonight and fitted up the intake which I painted last night. Hated how the manifold was clustered with ugly crap, decided to do away with the supports, flip the tps & swapped the vacuum hose fittings that run to the booster end to end. pipe is a near perfect fit. Heres my previous painting mishap, but its growing on me.. thoughts?
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ENGINE ARRIVED!! So back to it, lubed up a few rods and pushed them into their holes Did a few mods to the oil pump, smoothed out the sharp edges & increased the exit curve of the main oil feed port if that makes any sense? With the new cams/pistons etc I made sure that vvt isn't going to mess things up. Chucked some plasticine on the dome & with use of a second hand TRD h/g (cheers Mark aka CorollaGT) Torqued the head down. As per thread on measuring P to V clearance I timed it all up, cranked it over 30 Degrees which is 15 degrees at the cam, marked the intake cam and reset the exhaust cam and crank back to tdc. Thankfully she all checked out sweet so off came the head again, cleaned everything up, new TRD headgasket etc. Excuse the heinous paint work, used too takier masking tape and it peeled half the paint off... Need to make up a few things tomorrow so can dial in the exhaust cam then should be sweet for test fitting the boeast!
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TRD 2-way LSD arrived from Japan yesterday thanks to Alex at MLRacing. Set about stripping it apart then reassembling/fitting with new bearings etc & TRD solid pinion spacer. Thankfully the items description was right as she was in near perfect condition. Bit of a laugh, found some real, "she'll be right" stuff under the pinion bearing haha. Few hours later had the backlash set correctly just a bit iffy with the tooth contact, will have to grab some engineers blue next week to double check. Other than that she's mint! So anyone after a Locked small spline diff? Mint condition, one lady owner.
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Sweet ride man, loved watching you beat it around taupo last time you were there. Few shots of you in the vid I slapped together
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Threw in an AJPS 25mm lock spacer and 6mm spacer ring on the opposite side.
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Made use of the long weekend to get lingering jobs done. Fitted an AE86 Clutch master cylinder, used the modded clutch pedal from the spare kp but had to shoulder the bolt so the clutch rod will fit and drilled a small hole in the end for a split pin to thread through. I added another plate behind the master cylinder for support and to reduce flex, might add gussets to the pedal but will see how it goes for now. Upgraded the front brakes to AE101 calipers with 260mm rotors and made up a pair of adapters, thanks Kris for the ideas. Cut out the inner skin and pumped out the guards some more Also found the sweet og tag from behind the heater box.
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Got the old motor and box out today, managed to sell the motor to my work! Didnt get to pump the guards out today but stripped the other motor back down to send it away for honing.
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Some more solid progress T series diff in along with AE86 rear adjustable suspension. All fitted up a treat. Arches need a bit more pumping but will sort that tomorrow.
