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BLIZZO

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Posts posted by BLIZZO

  1. yea riding gear is a difficult one, most adventure gear offers fuck all protection, and has a hefty baby boomer spec price tag. the full on warm waterproof shit is also chunky as fuck and no that nice in summer. im a big fan of my adventure heros take of riding gear, Lyndon Poskit, he has done over 200,000 miles of adventure riding on a KTM factory 690 rally, popping in and doing international rallies along the way, including 2x Dakar rallies in the ultra hardcore Malle Moto class, so the mother fucker knows whats up. he was using Klim (the best) adventure gear thats goretex and shit, so its waterproof, but in hot weather it sucks and its pretty uncomfortable. he helped design new gear with Adventure Spec in the UK. its comfortable mes breatheable gear, with a built in bum bag type pocket that takes a lightweight Goretex over jacket. 

    layering is the way to go, i employ a similar system but just with cheap dririder gear, i have cheap non waterproof dri rider pants and jacket, and an alpinestars waterproof overalls thing, so i can be comfy in all weather. i also have some snuggy as fuck revit pants that are waterproof and real warm, got these for my upcoming queenstown trip in a few weeks and want to do the brass monkey etc. i havnt payed more than $80 a piece for all of my gear. For commuting heated grips is a lush idea, my new bike has them.

    If you plan on doing lots of winter riding a plug on or battery powered heated vest is also a good idea, they keep your core warm and the hot blood being pumped around stops your legs and hands from getting cold.

    TL;DR, dont spend much money, trawl trademe and FB market place, be careful for sizing as bike stuff is often sized on the small side, layer the mother fucker up, unless its >$1000, It aint waterproof.

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  2. 11 hours ago, ajg193 said:

    It's 7/7

    TOYOTA 3K-4K 1658 MECH STAGE 7 262/262 300/300 335/335 1.5 503/503 104 NZ$140.00 plus gst

    Rough idle. Full race. Full mods 4500-8500rpm plus

    did you install this cam or was it already in the minisprint engine? what else is done to the engine?, im just gunna be a bit of a dick and say it but this is probs wayyyyy to big for a road car engine. for example this is considerable more duration / higher lift than my last competition engine, and is about the same as my new engine. my new engine was built for circuit racing and i have put it in a rally car, so even that has got farrrr too much cam for rallying. im at 260 degrees advertised duration, you are at 262. my cam lift is 332", yours is 335. to get an engine that isnt a bad of shit out of this you are going to need lots and lots of compression to make up for the low dynamic compression ratio from that massive duration. for example my engine runs a 3k short stroke crank, in a 5k block (1394cc) bored to tage 4age forged pistons, with 13.25:1 compression. its strickly an avgas only engine, and also has twin 40 DHLA sidedraughts, a close ratio gearbox to try keep it on the cam along with a 9.5 pound flywheel (stock is 23 pounds, cos 200mm 5k flywheel).

    TL;DR, unless you have an engine built around that cam, its gunna be a bucket of shit, and even if it is built around that cam, its gunna be a bucket of shit to drive on the road.

    some cam experts can probs chime in here, where's robbie?

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  3. yea obvious ones here, check for spark, likely something to do with the fancy electronic ignition playing up. if its of a mini sprint what sort of ignition is it? most 4k minisprint engines i have seen run a trigger wheel and hall effect sensor with fancy programmable ignition.

    I tried an electronic unit in the dissy on my 4k rally car, after a failure i went back to points with an MSD to drop the current through the points, works fine. i time mine all in at about 3000rpm so wouldn't know what base / idle timing to use, as mine is high as fuck.

    stage 7 cam, shit is that out of 10 stages, that would pretty much make it a 3/4 race cam eh!

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  4. 2 hours ago, Truenotch said:

    Congratulations on becoming middle aged!

    haha ive been waiting for this slack,

    unfortunately there are far too many boomers around on "adventure bikes" that dont go off the tarmac. Im looking at this as another challenge to be able to go away for a week or so self sufficient and see places i couldnt otherwise get to without support crews etc, and the challenge of riding a 200kg bike in places that a 200kg bike shouldnt.

    i look at my father in law and what he does on his Africa Twin, 2 up with his wife on the back, in terrain i would find difficult on my XR250.

    im def keeping the XR for weekend trips or technical trips, but look at the AT as a "motorcycle caravan"

     

    But your right @Truenotch, its essentially the motorcycling version of an MX5, so now we have something in common.

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  5. they dont come with one, depending where you get it from it either will or wont have a lighting coil stator, if it has white and yellow wires those are the two lighting wires. green is earth, black with red stripe (sometimes yellow stripe) is the coil wire, and blue is cdi trigger

     

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  6. still have this thing hanging on the wall in my shed, gave it to my now wife, although we don't get out on bikes together anymore with the sprogs. it is occasionally used to get me ass home when drunk from local bbqs

     

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  7. Keeping black plates is cool, but as this is a c90 you won’t be able to do that, unless you register it as a c90 / motorcycle and have it complied etc etc 

     

    good score tho, just be aware that c90 have the same bolt pattern as ct110, and China engines aren’t a straight bolt in. Nothing hard to sort tho, I have just welded tabs to the frame before you you can make / buy brackets. Just something to think about 

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  8. 17 hours ago, Chris.QCR said:

    The Skyteam ace I built has all of those and no battery and also runs a trailtech with no issue.

    Ya'll need to on the train before it leaves ya behind

    this is what i want in my life, i have a trailtech on the shelf waiting to go in my CB50, how  do you run the indicators etc, just run them on AC and they are fine?

  9. cams 125 / my 140 /  pretty much any of the penny pinches 110s seem to vibrate the fuck out of any tight real bad. cam has even tried good narva lights to no avail. i think the best bet is LED although ive had issues with a few of them too. rubber isolators are the go i reckon. China engines although go well and are relatively reliable all seem to have some real weird harmonics / vibrations. cams 125 seems worse than most, and the batch of 110s we got.

    probs doesnt help he ran it on shipping oil for like the first 500kms  

    • Like 1
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  10. in summary - i warned you. 

    that guy is like terry53 but not quite as bad, wrecks bikes that dont need to be wrecked then wants too much for the parts. hes been wrecking mostly CTs for years, which is good if he advertises the parts as they actually are, but often flasely advertises them as being tidier when they are actually fucked / buckets of shit. 

    do you have the pull start mechanism from your engine? i would look into trying to make that fit a brand new lifan 110cc engine possibly. or get an electric start chinese 110 and just roll electric start only

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  11. yip as i said watch out about that seller as he is a cunt. i brought a CT rear rim of him that was supposedly in good nick with no holes, when i went to collect it had blobs of braize filling the holes up and was painted silver to look like it was tidy, couldnt tell by the photos. he was really really cagey about me collecting and wanted to ship it but i was in the same town as him for work. when he eventually agreed and i went to look at had him up about the shit quality he told me to 

    "fuck off then what do you expect for $90, go and buy a brand new one if you want it mint"

    Well you shouldn't advertise it as great condition then you punishing fucking boomer.

    TL;DR i warned you

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