h4nd

I made a spreadsheet of good quality replacement values

Anyway, I should really stop shitposting here and get the hell on with some work

'Sposed to be gapped to about 0.65mm, I squeeze em up to about 0.5mm, the spark hangs for longer (I think, I should actually measure that). because oil etc makes high resistance conductnance path, so the energy in the inductor (ign coil) dissipates quicker? Don't the supercharger / turbo lads run 'em closer, because more air, better insulator? Or just install Kill-o-zap systems like pics above? I put some clean(ish) ones in and nipped them up to about 0.6mm by eye, and it chortled off to the redline again.

That's odd I seem to have most of a set of caps here for refreshing a 1KZ ecu. Madness

I'll see how the 2 notches hotter plug goes 1st I seem to recall some detonation last time.

Oof, iforce went away, i'll have to dig up the earlier pics.

BP4ES, (now), was standard BP6ES. It's leaking coolant (I think) around the head gasket which is also pooched, and I think it's also running oil rich. so no real surprises there. Keep 'em spares in glovebox. One of these Satuday afternoons i'll shufty the good (rebuilt) motor back in there.

How's the serenity? Birds chirping, the quiet hum of Lyttleton traffic wandering by (cough) Anyway, fill'er up; oil water and change the plugs. Routine maintenance hmmmm.

Also, a shout out to @Carsnz123 and the team at Classic Workshop. The Dai broke the rubber band to the clutch, and I needed the car the next day. They got it turned around the same day for me, I picked it up in the morning, in time for the thing. Legends!

Downside is that it's better to run a small genny under load? Big ones coke up at long runs on low load? (I've heard, 2nd hand)

Some motors have 600-800% start current. It all depends a bit on various overload characteristics. A little VSD after the genny would probably help tune the load to the supply, reduce the startup current to ~250%

So of course, I'ma buy all dem 4GR, cos once folks see Roman wailing one down the strip, they're going to appreciate harder than Yoeddies thighs in a K11 pushing contest. STONKS!

Except no. Over summer for the last month or two, the old girl's been getting increasingly spluttery when hot. I know, in summer, right? I once looked under the bonnet, back on Dec 11: Ah yeah, that head gasket's not looking that flash. I really oughta hold a BBQ and invite a casual engine swap party soon. And then there were some good ideas about quick-n-dirty gasket repairs over in the tech spam thread (Roman's gift keeps on giving!) But, I'd forgotten the first and second rule of owning a 2T: So I threw those in the Barry-approved ND spark plug cleaner for 2 min, and fitted and test drove the toy and kiddo around the neighberhood. Sweet. Full thrash, back on tap. So I can ignore that for a little while longer. Right, what was next?

I have 2T head gasket troubles, no spare handy and I am lazy. You may have just provided an alternative option...

Deep space network status page: https://eyes.nasa.gov/dsn/dsn.html

Interesting. How much current? Could loan / find you a DC/DC converter to keep its supply clean.

Water pump: I could make you a little clip on widget to look for V spikes at that part of the loom? (just a Zener running into a small R which is likely to blow with a generous voltage excursion)

Would dearly loved to have seen the helmet double take as this flew by (ext LR cam pleeeese? ). Would totally suit a set of Mad-Dog Pizza livery (I'd pitch in for that).

Yeah anyways , @Lord Gruntfuttock's thread here https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/64444-lgs-ebike-prob-never-happen-project/page/2/ has been most useful, I have some BMS troubles. a 100Ah 3s LiPo a customer bought a few years ago is giving trouble. A bad loose wire clipping in the charger finally blew it up, so I bought a Jaycar brass monkey, because perfect specs, but: It only charged for an hour or so, then the BMS disconnected, I fell to 0, V went up to 12.6V, but would sink to 10.5 when disconnected from charger. I dug into it, and it's out of balance, 3.9V, 3.38, 3.6V - ooookay, it's got one of these in it https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33018801124.html, which should have been balancing it (only at ~50mA, as was pointed out in LG's thread). But the LED is on ("is equalised") for the middle cells, lowest Voltage! and that's which set has the voltage across the bleed resistors. It's operating backwards, and unbalancing them! (??!?). It's like --- hold one: I should not have to be looking in here: http://www.si-semic.com/upload/1460800283.pdf okay, these guys https://www.qskj.cc/shop/product/3-4-5-series-100a-polymer-12v-lithium-battery-with-balanced-lithium-iron-battery-protection-board-qs-b305abl-50a-79204 have made a nice PCB, but resellers are giving incorrect wiring instructions re charge vs power connections?, and no-ones talking about setting the SET pin to get 3s 4s 5s selection. GAH By chance, 3 of these arrived in the mail this week, so I've cobbled one together on my bench. It's shining the light for the high one, which it's discharging (correct). Maybe the BMS in the big battery did shit itself when the PSU blew? Shoudn't have. Ah well. May just throw a spare at the big batt, and see what happens. Tomorrow. err, today.

Cryptography bullshit also enables BMW locking you out of the electric sets which are already in your car, that you paid for, except if you pay them a further $18/month (until folks start setting up guillotines outside their offices, and they backed down). and USD$500/ year for OnStar (not now optional) for a few USA brands. and $8/month to use your toyota remote start from the fob. and auto high beams (yes, all the hardware is already there, pay to use it pleb). Tesla, $10/month for music streaming and sat nav. Whut? I'll let them have the cost for the fast accel performance, of course that puts more wear and tear on the car, which they'll have to cover under warranty - fair. but SAT NAV, on a fucking CAR???

^yes, re power supply, but you still need to get from 600V at 0.1A down to 22V ac at 3A for the speaker, so prob still need the audio output transistor (unless you're rocking electrostatic speakers, but they're very rare). ^Volume control mod, yes, genius!

That is indeed charming looking, but is only the rectifier (not an amplifier)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001066299107.html

Oh LoL: Should really be tagging @kempy and @Ned in here, they have accumulated wisdoms (and parts stashes)