h4nd

Yeah, nah. Resistor in parallel with the LED 'bulb'

Oooh, PCBWay will do UV (ink?) printing I totally should print spiders in UV ink on my next PCBs

It's really shit weather here for a few days, so I wombled out to the shed and bent some acrylic (badly). Apparently I'm getting soft in my old age: The dry patch is where the teeny stray-cat sized leccy blankie is. He/she/they/it is very skitty, so we thought having visibility might ease his/her/their/its mind.

The Psychotic Network Ferret@nuintari@bsd.cafe Windows 11 installer: Get to the account creation, step. Press SHIFT + F10 to get a command prompt. Enter: start ms-cxh:localonly Create a local user instead of a fucking Microsoft account. You're welcome Fuck you Microsoft

None of that sorry. Cheers

... and he did it the next day, Nice! so today, onward: Anyhow, that means it cranked for a while without catching and running. and that's perhaps given me an important warning clue: Yeah, there's only oily goo coming out one side. These engines pump 2T oil to the main bearings, which then lose it to the crankcase, so it looks like #1 may not be getting the good oil

You ask, and AliEpresstraliaopithecenes answers the call https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005006151082726.html

Fuck I hate Jaycar's so called search on their website. I also hate their website, come to think of it. This is how it uses my 37" 4k monitor: each of those 10 non-answers is 145x195mm (over 28,000mm^2 each, for those of you following along at home), and so big that the lack of data on the screen gave me a vacuum migraine.

So I had a pretty good set of gaskets, courtesy of @kyteler, which fitted nicely except for the carb one: Sooo, down to Repco! /s Generic gasket: some assembly required Then bung the motor in the hole, line up the stick thingy with the hole thingy I have some new tricks to make this a one-man job: drop the engine mount off the motor rear-left; also remove the fuel filter and bracket from that corner, Suspend the motor with a ratchet strap, TWO pinch bars: Once you get the first bolt from motor to box in, ye can squeeze the rest together with any old G-clamp. 1/4 inch socket set doing the good work to get the bolts back in that left-rear engine mount. Now it just needs fuel, oil, spark and starter hooked up for the traditional piss the neighbours off test. It'll be a few more days to get it roadable (Alt, cooling etc), but mostly this (these): Yar, those won't buff out. Well, off to see Hamish at Hammer-n-Weld, he's a nice chap anyways.

Permatex gasket maker selection chart: https://permatextraining.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/20507-Permatex-Gasket-Selector-Chart-2-1.pdf

Fencepost took a walk (no it didn't). Missing our 10cm target by about 330m Update: yeah, nah, I slipped the decimal place the wrong way, that's the track over 3m, about what's expected without the RTCM correction.

Let me guess, they put small fins into the fire/smoke area to couple more heat into the water? (Thinking about it, you could do the same internally to the water, with copper posts/fingers for increased surface area for thermal coupling)

@johnnyfive If it is silicone, I've never tried this: https://www.selleys.co.nz/products/sealants/selleys-sealant-remover/ so, try and report back please? but good quality elecrical is often coated in 'Conformal', tho I've usually only seen that in a thick paint like layer, not in buik. Again, a bit squishy, feels like a more rubbery silicone. https://www.vaniman.com/ultimate-conformal-coating-removal-guide/ If it were me, I'd be using plastic scraper / wood ice block stick, and seeing how it comes up. If you get it good enough to look at the parts, a coffee and lamington says one/some will have leetle volcanoes in 'em. Send pix, for our amusement. I've seen a great time lapse video of a PC keyboard being completely dissolved (PCB fibreglass and all, except for the copper) in a jug of Acetone, so probs don't leave it in overnight.

Gawd, look at that. I guess I should wire-brush and/or paint it

Mods are asleep! Shitpost in your build thread! I realised that part of what I like about working on the car, is wombling around in the shed listening to Concert FM (YMMV). This went west when I vacated my work office, but now I have have those dulcet tones back. Let's see if it helps

@ajg193 was kind enough to chat mech, and pointed out that the gearbox doesn't spin when the clutch is depressed, so the rumble is probably the motor output. Of the shit motor I want to change out. I should'a just gone with my first instinct and slapped it together and sent it.

I guess I'm allowed to spam up my own build thread. And put explanations in my project spam thread...

That was all before x-mas mind. I got the repaired expansion chamber / muffler back, then split the motor from the gearbox about a month and a half ago, but the bus run to new work is so quick, I got lazy... While the motor and box have parted company, I thought I really ought to investigate the grindy clutch noise: It feels fiiiiine, so I guess I'll go find a 2nd opinion? (i.e. procrastinate putting it back together again)

Oops: this was getting substantially loud British tech to the rescue (temporarily) Whilst Hamish at Hammer and weld did this to the other one:

1/4" slab, gets both sides of the SMT resistors, caps at the same time :-)í

OG Weller iron refurb. Baby h4nd could have done better rebuilding this 1/3 century ago. I got the sizzle noise out.

LoL, enough data in 5 min that the spreadsheet has started making my PC barf its guts up