h4nd

I got the cooling system together enough to take the Dai for a test drive. Oh dear. Leaks in the cooling system (annoying but simple), but the fault from the first engine has appeared in the bench (floor) tested engine... !!! I think I have realised a simple problem I've been overlooking all along. No, not that, another one. Pics soon.

Anyone else have that problem where a windows 10 laptop goes back to sleep too fast even when the power settings are changed (happens when using external USB keyboard)? I've found a solution if anyone needs it.

I'm aiming to get the Dai to the next one.

Yeah, so the regular wasn't happening, but 3/4h tonight and that's the points changed, tested and advance set. The old ones were working, but shagged. You can rock the crank by hand, so that makes setting the (static) timing easy. Amusingly, when I took the dizzy out again to move everything around 1/8 turn so I could get the socket back off the retainer bolt (another interfering fastener) #1 and #2 lead positions swapped over. LoL.

Also, have just jumped in here, have not read the earlier posts: Twin screw (Lysholm / IHI) etc compressors make less heat per boost, yes? My understandnig is that they snip off a packet of air at low pressure, squeeze it, the squirt that out on the high pressure side. So it's not pressing againts the high pressure the whole time it's rotataing: overall, less force x distance = less physics-work (joules) = less power (work/time) consumed per boost?

Gonna start a chat thread for the Lotus, so we can nag you into bringing it to the burgermeats?

I've been yarning to a new mate about cars, bikes and so on, it turns out he used to race an RS125 and generally likes two-strokes. He came over Sunday and helped me line up the clutch, and get the motor and transaxle crammed together. In the process, some of the tiny clutch bolts proved to have stretched, and one failed. Being the handy chap he is, he drilled the remainder of the bolt, and noticed it screwed further into the flywheel doing so. So we smacked a cheap Torx driver in there, and problem solved. It wasn't until the next day I saw my set of ezi-out anticlockwise threaded thingies right on the peg-board, looking at me. So, on with the show. Everythings so tightly fitted that not doing everything in a particular order, or missing a bolt means disassembling other sections, or going backwards a couple of steps to re-assemble. E.g, the exhaust can't be bolted to its bracket once the motor and transaxle are together; it just wont clear the front quarter panel to mate up. That took 3/4 hour to drop the other end of the bracket and re-fit (just two bolts) because those bolts also intefere with others. Oil feed lower section, starter and ignition from the chassis (not the test jig), fuel lines, and throttle / choke cable, lube and install the clutch cable means I could start it, and back it up 10 metres, and then foward again into the garage. By Jingo, its a noisy crackle straight off the side of the block. It wouldn't start at first, and sounded like a weak battery. I knew the battery had just come off the charger, so I was confused, until I noticed the hot electrical smell. Yep, I had forgotten the chassis to motor grounding strap for the starter, and all that current was torturing some light guage wire somewhere. Have also changed the water pump for a newer one. I'm now just trying to get at least 1/2h a night done, for steady progress to running again.

OSGCs @EpochNZ and @Bling helped with that problem. Cheers! Now I have this problem: which I can't solve with this other problem: Who says I have a 2T problem? So, to avoid further problems, I ran this up on the floor: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jcPet4fvTR2eTVBs6 No problem. Er, except how to get a now assembled engine into that impossibly tiny hole. Oh and assemble more bits on it...

What is IDLE

Your code looks way better than it used to. The rest of the system influences the code you show, so without knowing how the how often this is called, how pins are wired, when previousMicros is updated, what the incoming duty cycle is, and if dwell is set for 10million, it's a bit hard to tell. What is sensorThreshold for, and what is the inPin reading? (Too busy to puzzle it out, pics are good). Hint. You operator order for working out the time is probably correct, but I can never remember the precedences for all the languages, and putting brackets in there can make it explicit / easier to read. Also comments like // found a leading edge going high // trigger after dwell_uS Can also really help. Also, I'm assuming thisng are active high, but don't really know, so there's 2^3 = 8 different ways to think about it to work out what is doing. Pin names can have clues like POINTS_IN_LOW and IGN_OUT_HIGH to help. Keep it up, you're going places.

Remove LED1, install the LED (front end) of an optocoupler like the 817C's used elsewhere in the cct? Keep the wires short (wisted together is good). Use a soft bias on the Arduino (like the input pullup mode, ~50kOhm). Add 1nF on the output for noise reduction. ???? Profit.

Nice, and good job posting the 'solved', helps others!

Ah yes, I must get you my spare valves. Drop by for coffee.

Dissolve rust/iron in vinegar? The acetic acid shouldn't be able to get through the aluminium oxide skin (test on something equiv to check first!). I've seen a vid where a guy was doing this to free broken studs from an alloy block, just can't find the link at the mo sorry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid#Reactions_with_inorganic_compounds

Your switch pulls low, but you've got the interrupt triggering on RISING, (at the end (trailing edge) of the button press. This will be a bit later on, if the relay is holding for a while). Debounce is normally pretty short, 200ms should be plenty. If the relay is holding on for too long, you will just miss some of the 'presses'. Try putting an LED on the output to see how it's looking.That'll need solving first. In this case, you could replace the relay with: a small bridge rectifier, and a resistor to limit the current to about 20mA, and use an optocoupler (faster than a relay) just put the output of the optocoupler as your 'switch" the output is often polarised, but easy to figure out, and won't be damaged in your sensing circuit.

I have a cheapish UniT clip on multimeter, which also does dc down to ~3mA. Holy shit this makes finding current leaks easy. Neighbour was getting a soggy battery. instead of all that undoing and inline metering with the other multimeter terminals, it was just: set to DC 2A scale hold near wire(s) to reset/calibrate for the moon's magnetic field clip around wires(s). 105mA 5 minutes to check all the wires on a 24V system. --wrong link-- Added advantage, you don't then forget to put your probes back in the usual meter terminals, to it doesn't blow up the next time you measure a battery /mains.

Looks OK, can you re-post as quote text please? Indent and spaces matter for python.

Good-o, so it's probably staying pulled in, and not oscillating at 100Hz during the transition. How's the code for reading the pin look?

What kind of relay? Mechanical or electronic? I see it says 24ac, is it ac driving it?

Where's the standards / requirements for ewof for caravan please? I can see many docs saying 'you must have one' but none syring what the the technical requirements are (other than it's 'proscribed work''). Thanks. Basically I wanna see what's the minimum needed to get power into a van for a PC, lamp and a heater. Cheers edit: @kempy? Update, it's a joint AU/NZ standard, $123 to download here in NZ: or at https://vicparks.com.au/app/uploads/2016/02//as3001_2001-electrical-installations-relocatable-premises.pdf

Should I design up a board to slap an arduino in that has a 12V reg, inputs and will drive ignition / relays / whatever? (Carduino) Also, many of the cheap Chinese arduino clones use the CH340 usb-serial interface chip. Unfortunately the drivers for this are a bit shit. My main desktop was having power/sleep mode troubles, and ended up rebooting everynight (resetting my workspaces, and long running jobs). Tracked it down to a WeMOS board, so all is well if I unplug it last thing. HTH / H4nd

Does PC related tech crap go here?

The reed valves seemed OK, so I was scratching my head, (even ordered some carbon fibre sheet to make new ones) and then this happened: So I started pulling it down today. Even with a powerplant the size of a big family box of weetbix, it still looks like I'll have to pull the engine and transaxle in one go. I thought it looked about 50 / 50 that I'd be able to shufty the block out sideways off the transaxle. I'll have a big cuppa, and ponder that tomorrow.

So I got it going last time, and it seemed good for a couple of months. Then per this post over in the two-stroke tuning thread: I stopped at friends, dropped a thing off, then when I went to go, car start OK, runs OKish at idle but very much won't rev. I've checked the ignition, both sides look stable and consistent. I discovered that there's a bunch of fuel mist above the main jet on open throttle and especially as the revs come up. This wasn't there when it was running well (I have video for comparison.). I'd assumed reed valves, and a couple were weak-ish, but none broken, chipped or very much warped. Seats look OK-ish. I thought it may have been the fuel pump diaphram, but changed it: no improvement. On thinking about it again, I was unclear that would even blow fuel/air up the fuel line to the carb, the float valve should contained it. I've pulled down the inlet tract 4 times, with compilations of reed valves from old parts (best available, then older complete assemblies as cross check) but same symptoms each time. I happened to have another carb, and have thrown that on, same results. Is (stainless) reed valve failure really subtle? I'm looking at them, and they all look pretty good, just subtle differences in how they seat, and a couple which go "toing" (lower pitch) compared to most which go "ting". Pics, and running OK vs carb spitting vids: https://photos.app.goo.gl/vkXBbT8YS1p46RBC8

My now working (sort of) car is delivering folks to the 'Coast (hopefully). Any bros going past Woolston on the way for the OS meat tonight?