chris r

It's only a few sensors and some wiring. Megasquirt it for Max easiness

Good point re ethanol, I didn't think of that. I was hoping to avoid spending 150 as I'm guessing that's what a tank will cost? I'll re fill it and see if I can get the rest of the rust gone

No not entirely correct. That wont have enough power to run a pump. Your best bet will be to get a test light and check the wiring under that dash by the Ignition switch. OR Wire up a relay to the Ignition coil wire as per this:

So its had about a week, I've scraped off the anodes a few times since the last fluid change. I think we can safely say this works good. Because I'm cheap I'm tempted not to use a sealer on the tank, I think as long as it is full of fuel/ has a functioning fuel cap (not a emergency style one like it had) it should be ok? What are your thoughts? You can see the high tide mark there, I might flip the tank or something to try get that last bit out. I suspect if I was more careful I could strain and re use the solution.

I sanded the raised letters back and chucked it back on the motor, Looks a bit better now. I'll have to give the block a scrub now so it looks a bit tidier. The headers have a 2" collector so I've chopped that off and should have a 2.5" on the way. The flange is waaay off the head ports. I'm thinking about attacking them with a die grinder so they are close to matching.

rivnut/rivet it possibly? If you do use the cable tie I'm sure you know but cut it off flush as they turn into razor blades after a while

Good point. I did think of that and was wondering if it'd contaminate the weld but Time will tell on that. I've got the rocker cover an fittings to attach when they arrive so I'll give it another try

I think I might just of done that, I think I'll use it for tacking the pipes together for mocking up like I planned before I got carried away. A expander set would be good if I had enough piping haha, How do they work on bends?

For your crank angle sensor wiring why not use a small p clip? Even with the twist I think there could be a risk of chafing

Hmm good idea, I guess the problem is with my mapp torch the heat is fairly spread and the work piece gets too hot and the braising stuff just runs off or puddles. I thought it is my technique too. I don't really trust the braising long term as it's quite thin and very hard.

I dropped the gearbox to the gearbox guy. He is a proper Barry, gone all the way through to really good & useful. Read the codes and told me what they were out of etc. His shop is so full of stuff he was working on his recycling bin. He stripped and assessed both boxes and let me know the results. The box from the crx is pretty water damaged, all the bearings are sad and second is pretty rusted. He could use second out of the other box I supplied but it's a bit longer which isn't ideal, there should be one floating around so I'm hoping he can find one

I re did the interfooler piping and yes I can fit some 2.5" piping behind the bumper without chopping it too much. Also Yes you can braise aluminium with a mapp torch and the aluminium braising rods but it is a bit shit tbh. Not much penetration at all and most of the joints leak, looking back I should of just tacked stuff together with it and given it to someone to weld.

It's not"os" so no discussion thread so spam away here

One thing that really winds me up is when people say oh you've got a red top. Its not a 4age or a 202. So I ordered some wrinkle paint. I'm pretty happy with the outcome, we are now having pizza for dinner as someone made the kitchen smell of paint. I just need to carefully sand the raised letters and its good to go

I got some aluminium braizing rods and gave them a hoon today. Turned out ok after a session with the flap disc. It'll be interesting to see how it holds up/if it leaks or turns to shit. I did some work on the interfooler piping, I had lots of joiners initially so have cut down slightly on them. I might have to squash or reduce the 90 bend down to 2" to clear the bumper, I'll find out soon enough

I found some more photos The instrument lights were buggered when I got it so I got a repro light set and put it in. I put a radio in and rangid in some speakers. I REALLY hate seeing old cars with chopped up dashes for a radio so I glued the base onto the floor The step plates? were rusty so I chucked some underseal stuff on them. I'll see how it lasts And that is how its currently sitting

So here are some before and after shots. I think I'll need to do it another couple of times. I'll try find my chain as lots of that scaley stuff can be wiped off with my finger. Before : After: Oh an I probably should of work footware as the solution stings a bit on the old feet & hands

It is kind of funny. I laughed at myself. so I left it on the big battery with no current limiting for 24 ish hours and I think its worked quite well... I'm still filling/rinsing the tank so I'll get some photos inside soon I think there was a fair bit of iron in the solution. I think this might of worked WAY better than I expected. It does help leaving it for ages And yes that is a stick in the bottom to stop it touching the tank And yes I am messy/a hoarder

I got the polarity wrong last night so didn't do anything . I've got a bigger battery and no light bulb so it's getting full power as it's a larger surface area. I'll check it this afternoon

I'm pretty sure it works like that too so I'll probably have to do a few movements of the steel annode inside. At the end of the day this is a cheap experiment and if it works well it's a win and if not I have learnt something. It works well on smaller things.

I'm interested to see the result too! Roger that I'll throw a match in from a distance

I was thinking about cutting this rail in half but seeing as 6 injectors will be easier I'll run with it. I've got a bag of stuff and some drawings to take down to the mrs parents when we go next and I'll borrow the lathe again.

One if the write ups I found suggested too much current could cause the pitting but I can't find that explanation or writeup now. I wonder if the copper wires contributed to the blue crap too? I've got a nice dead piece of garden where my oil etc goes so I'll throw the sludge there. Its great not even weeds grow I ground back the shitty steel quickly as its all I had but it worked well enough. I've plugged the tanks and its as full as I can get it, I'll leave it to chooch overnight and check it in the morning That was as far as I could get the camera in but it shows how the top half is. I got the best pieces of steel I could find and rangid them in.

I hada quick test/play with the fuel gauge sender in a bucket. So stoked it worked as advertised. I didn't read the instructions and didnt bother about limiting the current and it did hunnidz and fizzed straight away. It DOES pit the surface if you dont limit it enough. before: anode before and after Fizzing away sender after You can really see the pitting there

I finished painting the nosecone and its sitting waiting for a day when I go out to the lockup and fit it I've been dreaming about injecting the 202 with a megasquirt or speeduio. Did some reading/thinking this morning and I have come up with a option that should work. I think a ms1 will do the job well enough and i'll be a fun learning experience I have a dizzy out of a red injected 202 with has the pickups inside, so I should be able to use a hei module as a signal conditioner/ignition coil driver. The 8 pin module looks like it should fit nicely where the original one sat. I just need to figure out if the megasquirt will be happy running 3 injectors as I plan on drilling/welding injector boss into the 9 port carb manifold. I'm debating about what throttlebody to use. I have a honda one from the wreck but as I saw somewhere the vn commodore thottlebodies have a idle speed motor built in which will make life easier. I'll leave this here as a reminder and for some part numbers. http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#gm7hei Edit: I did a quick injector size calculator and if I have 160 hp (yeah right) I'll need bigger injectors if I'm going to use 3. I had a dig around and found 6 old honda injectors so I'll just them as they are free. I'll turn them down a tad so they fit the hose tails for the fuel rail