chris r

Re the chassis, if there is no numbers or id stamped on them personally I'd swap it first. I'm no expert, only complied a couple of vehicles.

Yes that's correct for when I went through the process. The engineer will tell you what needs repairing and will sign the repairs off when they are happy with what's done. Flatmate welder will be after repair certifier (engineer) has told you what needs to be done

Diy reso time Chop chop Stuff more of fiberglass back in Hot metal glue, quick tickle with the flap disc and some paint

Swapped the resonators around. Double check part numbers before you order expensive adrenalinR stuff... Second one is the chambered one I meant to order which should stop the raspyness. Annoyingly it's a smaller body than the one I removed so I'll need to make new hangers. Plus side of being smaller is I won't catch it on bumps and stuff now. It sounds louder now but that could be because it's in the garage. I've got a coby style reso I'll trim to fit in that short straight section which will hopefully reduce the volume a bit.

The courier woke me up yesterday with a present. The vw rad is pretty close to stock size and twice the thickness so shouldn't have any problems I needed to trim the bottom of the rad support a tad so the bonnet latch and t bar would clear so but clearing stuff now. I have to make some brackets to mount it. I've got a guy keen on the crx but he wanted the back seat etc This pipped up on Facebook for fairly cheap so I jumped on it. Bonus of reg on hold injected and manual too so I've got a home for the integra motor now. So much for having less cars....

I scrounged around pick a part today and came away with a jazz filler/cap assembly and a alto rad hose/thermostat housing. 16 dollars sure beats the 40-100 for inline fillers that are too big anyway. Next week the rad should arrive and I'll get the filler welded up and i'll be away laughing... hopefully Can pretend it looks factory too.

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Remember how I said the headers were close but cleared the rad?..... well they don't. I was wondering why the gauge was cooler than normal and I had to keep topping up the coolant. A new EF half size rad is more than I want to spend and probably too wide as well. I had a look through a few radiator catalogues online and found nothing that'd work. I thought about walking around zebra/pick a part with a tape measure but chances of success were slim. My inner barry then remembered something about the americans using a VW radiator. A little bit bit of google fu and the mk1/2 golf radiators apparently fit nicely under the rad slam panel where the ac condenser used to go, bonus is they have the same hose size as the b18 so less mucking around. Only downside is it has no filler but I can either get a inline filler or go raid a newer car for its remote filler and get a piece of pipe welded onto the rad. I found a alloy rad on trademe for less than the ef half size so I've ordered that. The measurements all seem to work out so hopefully it fits. the buyer also pulled out, then said the crx wasn't for him.

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Are you weighing it and keeping a eye on scrap prices?

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I managed to get the clutch cable mostly finished today. Luckily the end of one of the nifty cables I had cut was the right length (or I forgot I had cut it to length) I just need to order the correct size barrel for the gearbox end and its done. Or try and find another one of those plastic sleeves/pivots like I used on the bar end

Looks amazing!

I taped up the flasher/headlight/reg rectifier wiring. Mostly finished off the switch wiring for the headlights cdi, coil and starter. Gave it a squirt of carb clean and Wrote a list out so I can try and focus on one thing at a time This chronic fatigue is fucking me over, if I do a whole day in the garage I'll have a migrane or be fucked for a couple of days. I have to force myself to stop after half a day. The frustrating thing is it wasn't as bad on holiday, probably because I wasn't thinking abd working stuff out

Made up the clutch and brake cables today Made a coil mounting bracket and gave the intake a tickle with the grinder More wiring progress, Finally played with my rivnut gun and mounted reg/rectifier. Also connected the headlight relay wires into the relay base

I'm out, fatigue issues still. If I can't do a couple of days driving a car then bikes are out of the question. Also am a noob and double booked a South Island pest with a friend at the same time

Registered the melody on the weekend and collected a supercub(nbc110) Swingarm to test fit on the cub. Lines up pretty well. Needs a slight extension but still easier and less work than making a new arm. I'll need to get some spacers/adaptors machined up for the 10mm cub bolt and the extra width. Will. Need to figure out the rear wheel too

Crx is back from paint. Looks a bit better with one colour. Someone is coming to have a look at it tomorrow so fingers crossed he makes a offer

Dude on Facebook selling the shuttles ghosted me which is probably a good thing. The crx roof and bumper are sanded and I've dropped it off for paint. The rasp from me fitting the wrong resonator is annoying me more and more so I might have to weld in the right one. I ordered turbo reso the first time instead of a na with the extra chamber to reduce the rasp. Part of me hopes it won't sell before drag day so I can try and beat the last time but I also want it gone before the end of the year

I couldn't sleep so I carried on with the switch wiring for the cub. Soldered new longer wires on most of the switches in order to avoid having joins midway down. Yes the housings need to be cleaned and polished but that'll happen later I just need to extend the brake switch wiring and thats the controls done. I've kept the brake switch wires separate in case it ever needs to be replaced

I've done a quick doodle, you could potientally get away with one relay but you'd need to test the wiper motor to check something. Pm Incoming

I also attempted to stretch the tyre I thought would fit into the wide wheel and that wasn't going to fit so I rage quit and decided I'd just use the standard wheel on the Gy6 nifty. Welded that mount up this afternoon and dummied up a solid mount to replace the rear shock. The nifty loom plugs into the Gy6. I only have to change one crimp. That'll make that side of things easy. I think think the plastics will need a slight trim