chris r

The colour match isn't exactly right but it's silver so it'll do

Re fixed the rust as I did a rush job last time and it crept back. Got some proper rust converter acid stuff this time Ran out of time to finish priming etc Grabbed a new set of cheap tyres no point in wearing out the 003 commuting. I've gone up to a 205 55/15 now. Speedo is only 10k out now not 20 Installed the mugen shocks I had in the shuttle Yeah na it's going to need a lot of rolling to even be close to not shredding the tyres. I put the stock stuff back in The fronts stick out even more so it'll stay stock height as I'm not cool enough to run stanceboy camber to fit it all in.

The ac has been intermettent for a while and there was a old receipt for a repair on heater controls not working so I pulled it out and took it to the healing bench I suspected dry solder joints so had a go at them with the cheapie soldering iron. Yes best practise is to de solder and re solder everything but i don't have the energy/can't find the tools in the mess. Reflow and a bit of fresh solder in the mix will do the job for now Success (mostly) Annoyingly the illumination lights aren't working. I've ordered all the illumination bulbs for both parts from amayama as they were a couple of dollars each and being genuine I know they'll work fit/be right.

So this happened again tonight Replaced the clock spring as I grabbed one when I was last at pick a part and it's the only part of the system that shares a 12v supply with something else (horn) Here's a edited version of the reset process so I can find it easier again next time 1st step in erasing the memory is to turn the ignition off and connect the tool/switch to the MES Plug 2nd Turn Ignition on. SRS indicator light will come on for about 6 seconds then go off. 3rd Disconnect tool/turn off switch within 4 seconds after SRS indicator light goes off. SRS indicator light will come on again. 4th Reconnect tool/turn on switch within 4 seconds after SRS light comes on. SRS indicator light will go off. 5th Disconnect tool/turn off switch within 4 seconds. SRS indicator light will indicate that memory is erased by blinking 2 times. 6th Turn ignition off, and wait 10 seconds. Start vehicle like normal and light should come on and go out like normal.

Did some reading and there is a manual srs reset process to follow, disconnecting battery isn't enough as it turns out Made up a button to help with that Success Got sick of not having the alarm control the locking so sorted that Had a look at the diagrams and there was a optional remote for this, checked and the drivers door had a factory motor in it which was nice. Had to probe the module but found the lock/unlock triggers Soldered the wires on and put it back in the case Now it works as it should https://i.imgur.com/t4YwJkj.mp4

Checked the loom, no visual damage at all checked everything for continuity/shorts and all good there, clock spring had continuity and no shorts so I'm guessing ecu shit the bed Grabbed a couple of bulbs from pap while I was there and fixed the cluster/not being able to see the speed needles at night Chucked some coolant in it as it didn't leak any of the water or make milkshakes Crimped/sorted the amp power wiring and made a new earth cable while I had the crimpers out

Owner of the van has just passed away so it's all on hold for now. I'll get it wired enough for it to run and we can make a plan from there

I sold a bunch of adrenalinr to the Honda people at my last job, after chatting with adrenalinr a few times the recommendation was nearly always the adr019 louvre baffle https://adrenalinr.com/shop/louvre-baffle/ Bigger body is better for quiet of course. If you just want something livable on the street and not after max powah for street setup then a turbo flow/triple pass rear muffler will do the job. I've for a fairly small cheapie on the orthia and it's perfect as a daily. Edit: I've also fitted a adr019 to the tonner with a cheaper m&h flow master copy muffler and its pretty quiet/sounds good as well (only 2.25" tubing and 2.5" reso)

I'm leaning towards clock spring, I had the coloum out and didn't re center/check the clock springso I'm hoping that's the issue. I had the srs loom out when I was running the shifter cables and was super careful not to damage it

Couple things have cropped up, srs light has made a appearance and didn't fix itself with a reset. I'll have to do some trouble shooting. Flash codes come out as 23, 13, and 12 2-3 short circuited To a Wire In Passenger's Inflatable Air Bag Module Or low Resistance 1-3 short circuited To a Wire In Driver's Inflatable Air Bag Module Or low Resistance 1-4 short circuited To 12 volt power or VSS. Driver's Inflatable Air Bag Module Also the cluster lights for the needles don't work so I'll need to pull the cluster out and investigate

Couple small things today. Fixed the door card fabric that's been flapping pretty much the while time I've owned the car Mounted the ecu Factory trim even fits back on Next on the list is to cut out a bit of metal to fill in the gap where the crv shifter boot doesn't quite match the orthia surround. Stock civic/orthia shift boots will be too short to fit and share a similar size hole to the auto shifter Just need to make some brackets for the headers to help support them and clean/drive it and see what else comes up.

Yes he did, we were chatting after and mentioned he knew you

Borrowed old works host. Driveshaft, new pads and rotors fitted. Heat shield stuff applied to firewall around shifter as the cat sits right below it I grabbed a shorter belt for the power steering and that now works

Factory intake arm arrived thanks brock/auto parts farm/I forgot your os name Fitted that and used a old bit of auto trans cooler hose as the rocker cover vent hose as the cabin gets pretty fumy (still need to do shifter cable grommets) Unsurprisingly my orb fitting didn't seal, good to know catch can is doing its thing though

Rock auto a set of bearings and boost it tbh

Pretty stoked with that as it's a 300k+ bottom end rebuilt in the shed with a unknown Facebook marketplace head. No leaks or shitty noises. If I can find some b16a or type r cams I'll get more power all round but dont know if a cbf changing them when this works well enough

Dyno run was a success. 107.4 wkw and 142 talks There is a slight air flow restriction up top but is is not the factory airbox/cheap filter combo which is interesting, could be the stock b20 throttle body Correction. The vortech/doort master intake pipe picked up power but it was still dropping back a cell in the map up top so the factory intake is not the restriction, most likely the stock 62mm b20 throttle body. Factory intake setup below

I think I did but will need to have a dig through my photos

Agreed, for a super cheap shitty bend they work ish. I grind the aloomizong off and it's nicer to weld. Auto bend stuff is heaps nicer! Thicker wall too from what I've seen. but I'm money cheap and spend a bit more time Fucking around as a result.

If time isn't a issue I'm quite impressed with the ap exhaust stuff I got from rock, time will tell on the longevity of it all though. Landed cost was less than chase wanted for similar products Stickly flanges make nice flanges or if you want cheap bends then sta have them

Dyno booked for Wednesday Rangi up a intake while I wait for the factory arm to arrive. I'll ask tuner to pull off factory airbox and see what gains/losses there are. I'll try and get the factory heat shield over the exhaust too, it'll need some trimming but will be nice to have it stock ish

Yeah factory meant to be 110kw at the flywheel factory. Just running 95, if I sacrifice a bit of power so be it, it's intended to be a fun daily/I'm too cheap to pay for 98 all the time My crx made 115 wkw from memory (same dyno as this will be going on) , that was type r b18c so more compression and revs/it also had aftermarket cams.

Rangid up the catch can with leftover hoses/fittings from my hoard. It was a cheap catch can but looks exactly the same internally as the mishimoto cans so finally a aliexpress win Outlet goes into the resonator section of the airbox Sits nicely where the factory massive resonator chamber sat I've run a - 10 hose down under the rad for a drain for the can. Didn't want to buy a bung so I made one. Hopefully the orb fitting seals well enough The tuner popped around and had a nosey, was happy enough with how everything is. I just need to check the iat sensor in the morning as it was reading a bit high Looking a bit more factory ish. I'll try and mount the factory heat shield over the headers I've rangid a intake pipe up while I wait for a factory one to arrive It'll go onto the dyno some time next week. Its the 'heartbreaker' mustang dyno which reads lower than others but it's just a number at the end of the day

The vtec heads flow much better so all things being the same it should gain power compared to before, but more importantly I get more doort noises Manual crv gearing is higher compared to the auto (or manual orthia) it's revving higher/speedo is reading about 15% faster. Hopefully once I track down a stock intake arm it'll look more factory, its all bolt in parts (except the shifter) I'm hoping with a boot I'll get away with it with a friendly shop

It's still on base tune so conservative, I'll be getting it tuned on Neptune (socketed/Chipped factory ecu). Butt dyno says it feels a bit "flat" but again not tuned/ haven't checked timing etc etc Compression should be 10.2:1 with this head. I'm hoping no wof issues, I'm more worried about the manual conversion stuff tbh