chris r

Couple small things today. Fixed the door card fabric that's been flapping pretty much the while time I've owned the car Mounted the ecu Factory trim even fits back on Next on the list is to cut out a bit of metal to fill in the gap where the crv shifter boot doesn't quite match the orthia surround. Stock civic/orthia shift boots will be too short to fit and share a similar size hole to the auto shifter Just need to make some brackets for the headers to help support them and clean/drive it and see what else comes up.

Yes he did, we were chatting after and mentioned he knew you

Borrowed old works host. Driveshaft, new pads and rotors fitted. Heat shield stuff applied to firewall around shifter as the cat sits right below it I grabbed a shorter belt for the power steering and that now works

Factory intake arm arrived thanks brock/auto parts farm/I forgot your os name Fitted that and used a old bit of auto trans cooler hose as the rocker cover vent hose as the cabin gets pretty fumy (still need to do shifter cable grommets) Unsurprisingly my orb fitting didn't seal, good to know catch can is doing its thing though

Rock auto a set of bearings and boost it tbh

Pretty stoked with that as it's a 300k+ bottom end rebuilt in the shed with a unknown Facebook marketplace head. No leaks or shitty noises. If I can find some b16a or type r cams I'll get more power all round but dont know if a cbf changing them when this works well enough

Dyno run was a success. 107.4 wkw and 142 talks There is a slight air flow restriction up top but is is not the factory airbox/cheap filter combo which is interesting, could be the stock b20 throttle body Correction. The vortech/doort master intake pipe picked up power but it was still dropping back a cell in the map up top so the factory intake is not the restriction, most likely the stock 62mm b20 throttle body. Factory intake setup below

I think I did but will need to have a dig through my photos

Agreed, for a super cheap shitty bend they work ish. I grind the aloomizong off and it's nicer to weld. Auto bend stuff is heaps nicer! Thicker wall too from what I've seen. but I'm money cheap and spend a bit more time Fucking around as a result.

If time isn't a issue I'm quite impressed with the ap exhaust stuff I got from rock, time will tell on the longevity of it all though. Landed cost was less than chase wanted for similar products Stickly flanges make nice flanges or if you want cheap bends then sta have them

Dyno booked for Wednesday Rangi up a intake while I wait for the factory arm to arrive. I'll ask tuner to pull off factory airbox and see what gains/losses there are. I'll try and get the factory heat shield over the exhaust too, it'll need some trimming but will be nice to have it stock ish

Yeah factory meant to be 110kw at the flywheel factory. Just running 95, if I sacrifice a bit of power so be it, it's intended to be a fun daily/I'm too cheap to pay for 98 all the time My crx made 115 wkw from memory (same dyno as this will be going on) , that was type r b18c so more compression and revs/it also had aftermarket cams.

Rangid up the catch can with leftover hoses/fittings from my hoard. It was a cheap catch can but looks exactly the same internally as the mishimoto cans so finally a aliexpress win Outlet goes into the resonator section of the airbox Sits nicely where the factory massive resonator chamber sat I've run a - 10 hose down under the rad for a drain for the can. Didn't want to buy a bung so I made one. Hopefully the orb fitting seals well enough The tuner popped around and had a nosey, was happy enough with how everything is. I just need to check the iat sensor in the morning as it was reading a bit high Looking a bit more factory ish. I'll try and mount the factory heat shield over the headers I've rangid a intake pipe up while I wait for a factory one to arrive It'll go onto the dyno some time next week. Its the 'heartbreaker' mustang dyno which reads lower than others but it's just a number at the end of the day

The vtec heads flow much better so all things being the same it should gain power compared to before, but more importantly I get more doort noises Manual crv gearing is higher compared to the auto (or manual orthia) it's revving higher/speedo is reading about 15% faster. Hopefully once I track down a stock intake arm it'll look more factory, its all bolt in parts (except the shifter) I'm hoping with a boot I'll get away with it with a friendly shop

It's still on base tune so conservative, I'll be getting it tuned on Neptune (socketed/Chipped factory ecu). Butt dyno says it feels a bit "flat" but again not tuned/ haven't checked timing etc etc Compression should be 10.2:1 with this head. I'm hoping no wof issues, I'm more worried about the manual conversion stuff tbh

Yeah I'm stoked Spec is original b20 block/bottom end, b18c vtec head, crv manual gearbox and rear diff (so ratio is the same)

All assembled Throttle cable bracket didn't line up so I welded two together Started and went to bleed the rad and check light came on. Dizzies out of the warranty bin were there for a reason. Two China Dizzies both had sensor faults. I swapped the oem honda sensors in and same issue, I ended up swapping the shaft with the gears etc from the original Honda dizzy into one of the China housings. Took it for a quick spin around the block and it survived. Went for a longer drive to get lunch The exhaust turned out great with the reso fitted, drone has gone and the volume is much better

Manifolds on and cam seals done I didn't get many pics of the rest of today's progress was in get shit done mode. Had to do another trip to pap to grab a bunch of manifold nuts. Fought the inner timing belt cover as it hit the block a bit. Quickly slapped a battery and the wiring together. Didn't hear fuel prime and had a o shit moment, plugged the fuel relay in and had fuel and no leaks. Figured there was enough assembly lube in it so went for a test fire Plugged tps in and check light went out. Will bleed coolant /check for leaks and Button the last stuff up tomorrow

Exhausting morning Tacked flexi/reso/everything together Welded on the lawn and back purged with a oxygen nitrogen mixture Yes the headers are most likely shit/no good for power, they are lighter than stock and let me fit the cat and reso under there so it does what I need it to Time for some grinder love and it'll get some paint and maybe some wrap if its really lucky

Thanks, yes it's a silly honda wagon. I wanted a awd manual vtec wagon so I had to make one hah

So list didn't get much checked off but i got a bunch done. Started on exhaust stuff. Expanded the headers a bit so I could slide the pipe in so it'd hold while I figure stuff out. Got flexi in position then the rain set in and I was over laying on puddles so moved onto other stuff Bags of new genuine bits (and some rock auto stuff) Torqued head bolts down and started on the cams/cam caps Two small o rings replaced there Got the o ring ready for the middle cam cap but the dowl is missong Moved onto sorting the intake manifold stuff Fitted fuel rail iacv and throttle Manifold came with a extra coolant line which isn't needed so I Wanged a bunch of epoxy and a bolt into the hole Squirted some underseal on the inside of the trans tunnel

Grabbed new head gasket this morning. Dowels didn't fit so it needed some careful filing Bit of honda bond around the oil drain passages that are different There are 84mm vtec spec head gaskets and also a couple of options that are intended for this application but everyone has been out of stock or delayed on them Heads on with new bolts Replaced the thermostat/waterpump pipe o rings and fitted that before I forgot

Only got two things ticked off the list today... Shifter plate was win and took a few hours, hopefully I can smash most of that list tomorrow. Ideally want to get to the dyno by the end of the week which is looking like a very ambitious goal at this point

Mixed success today Got valves/retainers all sorted today, Went to put the gasket on and it was a tight fit with the dowels, Head gasket didn't survive the process Cut/welded/seal sealed the block off/shifter mounting plate I'll tack/weld the nuts on so its not a mission to change in the future. I'll etch prime it then give it a good dose of underseal so its factory azz gee All the gears work which is nice https://imgur.com/DBGSZH5

While I was on a pickapart mission I saw there was a accord with a heimholtz reso so I grabbed that - Will have to do some more reading/sciencing to figure out pipe length/sizes etc. There is space above the rear muffler so I should be able to fit it, with the new headers I should be able to fit the cat and the other resonator