chris r

Annoyingly the power steer pump bracket is different on the vtec head. I'll need to find a factory bracket or gamble on a aliexpress one

Got radiator, axles, rear drive shaft , intake and exhaust manifolds and most of the loom disconnected from the orthia. Didn't quite get the trans dropped but that can be tomorrow's problem While packing up I noticed honda had made my life significantly easier. No need to bust out the holesaw

Productive morning I'm picking I'll have to grab my engine crane to get it back into the orthia

Not too many more than the car has hah, I'll just swap the fuel/temp side over and keep the speedo and tach from my original cluster

Collected a manual cluster tonight

Lvvt manual/book says they need to be operated through a load-sensing device such as a current draw sensor; I interpret that as a yes it needs a ecu/controller. Wilwood do a whole kit, calipers and controller etc I wonder if the controller can be had separately https://www.wilwood.com/brakekits/BrakeKitsProdRear?itemno=140-16849-RD I'm working on something that has had come calipers retrofitted, will be talking to the guy that made the setup next week so I'll update in here

So I'll be playing with a electric parking brake on a car soon The cert requirements (as I read/understand) say they need to be operated through a load-sensing device such as a current draw sensor Is there a nice standalone 'ecu' or control module available? I see wildwood make a whole kit. GPS based speedos are a no go right? They'll need to be 'driven' either mechanically or electrically Vehicle is a 79 Bedford if the age makes a difference. Three fiddy three fiddy powered

Hah yeah! They're are millions in pap/zebra but I'm cheap and want to spend the least amount possible

There has been a intermettent knocking noise, I thought I had something in a tyre or possible a wheel bearing. Noticed both drivers side cv boots were gone on the back and the shaft moves around a bit. I'll steal the shaft off the crv eventually.

So it was nice quiet and comfortable... Made a 2.5" system for it tonight. Took way longer than expected. It was at that point I realised I didn't have enough bends so made some pie cuts Hot metal glued it together I could only fit two mufflers in it adtye driveshaft takes up a bunch of real estate. It's *just* too loud. Still quieter than most hondas with aftermarket exhausts. Zero rasp which is great. When I have more caring and time ill grind and paint it.

Cheap reso is interesting looking. I'm used to looking at the adrenalinr stuff but that's a different price point. Looks better than the cheap m&h stuff The cherry bomb looks a bit shit, some of the baffle has been moved/bent. Hete is cheapest exhaust stuff I could buy

The neighborhood kids were screaming so I made some of my own happy noises with the grinder and flap wheel. It's not vtec officer.... Figured out which were the intake and exhaust stem seals and chucked the new ones in/on It occurs to me thst I probably should have lapped the valved in before doing that but I'll give them shit loads of oil and it'll be fine

More shed barrying. Parts run today was mostly successful. Went in for a seat base for the orthia but they were gone. Grabbed a air temp sensor and a couple of idle speed motors and some water temp sensors as the ones in the head were cooked Also grabbed a "factory vtec solenoid pressure switch delete bolt" Gave the solenoid a clean and fitted the sensors and bolt. It'll tek hard azz gee now. Grabbed some jb weld while I was out and pood up the hole

People seem to want moonbeams for a awd honda manual gearbag. Found one for not a horrible amount of money. (still more than the orthia cost) It even came with wof/reg and a car around it I figured all mounts and small stuff would be annoying to find so may as well have it all in one place. Hopefully can slam the auto into the crv with minimal effort and sell it on. I'll need to figure out the linkages as the autos are Colum shift and that stuff is welded/mounted to the column

It's a weird angle so drilling/tapping would be beyond my skill set

Had some barry time in the shed. Drilled/chamfered the oil sammich plate holes. Factory finish didn't leave me confident bits wouldn't fall out/off. The fitting didn't even have holes lined up so drilled that and stopped just short of the taper on the an end Same deal with the center fitting It blocks the holes somewhat so it'll get a trim to suit Got a better photo of the manifold issue Tip of the file is where the hole is, it'll be major surgery to get there with a welder so I'll give it a go with some cold weld epoxy and really hope it sticks

It's the least bad option

Had a play in the shed for a bit today, the 32nd keeper just fell out when I moved the head which was nice. I had a look at the manifold to see if there was any loose bits that'd cause sadness if the motor injested them. This lump was weird but I figured shit casting or something Looks a bit shit on the inside Blocked the other end of the port off (idle control valve inlet) and blew through it and it was not air tight Shoved a light in the plenum and there's a gap. Dunno if casting shifted or they machined it wrong or just China qc That grey looked a bit 'off' I noticed a bit of a scratch and figured it was paint. So gave it a jizz with brakeclean Have started communication with the seller and will see what they come back with

Orderd a aliexpress manifold, vtec oil feed kit and valve compressor tool. It doesn't look too shit, casting looks okay, bolt pattern even matches the head Valve spring Compressor works, they our the nice thread taper on the wrong side of the tool but it still functions I've got a bunch of leftover gaskets etc from the turbo motor build, stem seals I'll use on this head. One keeper has escaped and is in the head so I'll fish that out later. Ordered rock autos C̶h̶e̶a̶p̶e̶s̶t̶ finest muffler and reso as the guy I called at the exhaust suppler was rude as fuck and it was double the price. Somehow a 2.5" catalyst converter appeared at work and noone claimed it so I took it. (2000 means I should keep it) and its free and will hopefully keep it quiet. My aim is to have close to oem vokume system as I'm old man spec

Got some liquid gold today Strangly enough with the correct type and volume of fluid things work much better. It was two litres low, shudder is gonw now, it still surges a bit but I'll ignore that until it gets worse. Changed the atf in the orthia while I was on a roll

Ac doesn't work in the accord and the beagle has a intermettent miss/still is leaking oil. I was trawling marketplace for a manual crv to pillage for parts and saw something tempting. The guy was hard to deal with and a bit abrupt/rude. We took it for a spin around the block, tired a lowball and he didn't accept it. We counted out the cash and he kept ignoring us. His kid came up to us and was like "excuse me are you going to buy the car or not" umm yes we aren't standing here with cash for no reason Ticks all my boxes, cheap uncommon, awd high km, ex damaged auction. Had typical cvt shudder but I'll service it and ignore it. Lisa loves it and has claimed it, she wanted something tall and small ish so it Ticks those boxes too

Can confirm pats barrying. Spent a good 30+ mins on the phone with him.

+1 with me and genuine fluid. I've also used torco and its as thin as genuine and shifted waaay nicer than the other stuff that was in the box

Such a excellent blend/colour match you'd never even guess it had been painted Boots on and lined up. A tweak of the latch and its actually shutting nicely on the first attempt now

Right hand side came up good. I got a bit keen sanding and got down to metal so it's got another coat of brunox Left side still has a dip but it's good enough.