shrike

According to Wikipedia the 1NZ-FXE and 1NZ-FXP also have forged Rods

Along with the 13:1 compression but guessing they are the older motors your speaking of 

Just get some straight and do pie cuts :p for the bends etc

17 minutes ago, d.p.n.s said:

I think I could ..

but I don't know if I'm want to run the risk of having an issue.

it was the 1st time I've done this and don't actually mind having another go..

 

Fair enough was just thinking it might be an option if you need to save the head long term. 

Can you weld up the hole? 

@chris rare we taking bets on KWATW? 

Factory is meant to be what 112kw at the fly? 

So maybe 90-100kw atw stock? 

Did you have a factory dyno number?

I'm guessing with the exhaust, better head, compression bump and a good tune (what fuel are you going to run?) Assuming you can run optimum timing for power (without knock) 

You might gain what 10-20kw atw?

1 hour ago, kpr said:

 

 

So does it just get run open from the back of this or is Roman going to need to tie it into a resonator/muffler/ further exhaust? @Roman are you going to run this daily or only for the drags/track, do you need a cat for Wof purposes?

Wondering how loud its going to be lol

3 minutes ago, chris r said:

It's still on base tune so conservative, I'll be getting it tuned on Neptune (socketed/Chipped factory ecu). Butt dyno says it feels a bit "flat" but again not tuned/ haven't checked timing etc etc

Compression should be 10.2:1 with this head.

I'm hoping no wof issues, I'm more worried about the manual conversion stuff tbh

Ok nice sure you'll get a few more gains when its tuned/run in etc

Nice so a small bump up from the factory compression (Factory seems to be from 8.8 - 9.8 from what I could find)

Is the manual gearing higher or lower then the auto (ie is it revving higher or lower at say 50/100km)

Fingers crossed they don't notice the conversion, assuming it looks stock enough yeah?

Any plans for some boost later on or just drive it as is?

1 hour ago, chris r said:

Yeah I'm stoked 

Spec is original b20 block/bottom end, b18c vtec head, crv manual gearbox and rear diff (so ratio is the same) 

 

Any up rated CR with the change in head? does it feel quicker to the butt dyno

What was the tuning method/ecu your doing again?

Assuming wof wont be an issue?

39 minutes ago, Spencer said:

Will be easy to get whatever piston you want made for this if you have $$ (like $1500-2000 at a guess) we will need to up the kitty moneys though lol

Wonder if there is any off the shelf option from another motor 

Or anything fun on aliexpress

Was it ca18 pistons in a 4k or something like that, maybe it was Honda ones I can't remember 

"Rzcrew Garage - Forged Pistons 76.5mm - 8:5 to 15:0 Compression Ratio - Toyota - 1NZ-FE - RZ-FP-1NZ-FE - 8:5.1-75 - RZCrewEurope – RzcrewEurope" https://www.rzcreweurope.com/products/rzcrew-garage-forged-pistons-76-5mm-8-5-to-15-0-compression-ratio-toyota-1nz-fe-rz-fp-1nz-fe-8-5-1-75?variant=18299895775343

15:1 605euro :p

@Romanmaybe you could look into forging your own pistons like Burt Munro?

"They were hand-cast using sand from local beaches in a variety of receptacles, including tin cans. They were then painstakingly finished with file and lathe,”

Pretty sure you could improve on that with some 3dprints etc for molds

Break up some broken pistons to melt down etc

All the side feed injectors I've seen have been a pretty standard size dimensionally.

I'd be looking at subaru side feeds probably 550cc ones would be heaps for what your doing. 

4age silver and black top injectors are also sidefeed (310cc)

Sr20 injectors are another option (370cc for the turbo ones I think) these are shorter then 1jz sidefeeds.

1 hour ago, Muncie said:

If it wasn't for price of petrol there'd already be one in the garage.

 

The big Ford Territory SUV with the Non turbo Barra do like 10.2L per 100km for the 2016 model

32 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

OK, normally I'd say k swap is cool, but I think we all know turbo Barra is the answer here.. 

1 hour ago, kpr said:

3d printed pistons

1 hour ago, deankdx said:

surely with 11,000rpm it's possible? the head and cams might get there in the smaller capacity if the rods can handle it?

Lots of compression and remove weight?

Curious on the choice behind 8.5:1 Compression ratio for the build but keen to see results

My AE111 Levin project has the 370Z rear brake setup with the Akabono rear calipers (GT4 rear hubs, toyota highlander bearings/driveflange (5x114.3) a hub ring to center the rotor on the drive flange and then an adapter for the brake) went this way as the internal handbrake on the GT4 and 370Z was similar/same size (cant remember if I worked out it could just factory GT4 shoes or if I needed to add some more lining) 

Pretty sure I brought the bits before I knew that rock auto was the go but I didn't think $330 was bad for rear calipers back then (2019)

https://www.jegs.com/i/Power-Stop/419/S6182/10002/-1?trk_msg=J0VUDM8LCMF4B3PL9EC2QDMGQO&trk_contact=PHST57KEHEJ4JHTH6OUCNU8TO8&trk_module=tra&trk_sid=63E1DGRI1NVOMSC6D65SIEB518&trk_link=1E1GAD39M374BBES33HDTMRMI8&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Product&utm_campaign=Transactional&utm_content=Order+Confirmation

Or are you looking at the 370z brembo option?

Weld the hole up?

So are you going to make a claim via the Contract and Commercial Law Act 2017?

Sounds like the guy is just scum and took advantage of the current car market, highly doubt anyone in the UK would have paid what he was saying he could get etc if they would surely he would have already jumped on it

Coolent temp sensor, ecu retarding timing until it comes up to operating temp, can always test the sensor and or just unplug to verify

If the temp is no good it wont know its warmed up

Hope you are going to investigate putting a sump/bash plate on?

Is the main issue that the carb fowls the cab in its current location?

My first thought is low profile efi conversion,  but I know you wanted to stay carbed. 

Anyway to remote mount the carb? Sounds like a good reason to go remote mounted turbo with a suck through carb

How much dies the cab fowl on the carb/ top of the engine?

Could you raise that part of the seat/engine cover up?

Can you remove any material on the heads/cam covers to lower the engine more?

Should post a video of what it's doing in the base tune that @Studid for you.

Did it still have issues once you fixed the timing/sensors? 

When I had my r32 I once plugged the injector loom in backwards so it coughed and spluttered but didn't fire.

So looks like they don't clear the evo front brakes. Seems evos had 15" minimum size so I'll either need to get some 15 or 16 inch rims or put lancer brakes up front for a rwc.

Or just see if I can pass it with the 17x8 wheels

Got some factory 14s $400 with tyres

Hoping they clear the front evo brakes (they are gsr wheels) if not might have to get another set of wheels or get some lancer Front brakes

Ae111 rear calipers have a cable handbrake (are common calipers on corrollas so heaps of stock)

Could probably go to a 270mm if you needed also pretty sure you can get rhe discs undrilled/they should have enough meat to Redhill