bigmatt4

got the new exhaust all tacked up nice and high should get no grounding over judderbars used a multi bend pipe with 180 a 90 and 2 45deg bends and 1.5 m 2" pipe came out mint very pleased will paint it up wih high jeat paint to help prevent rusting dummy block and gearbox are back in had to re make the engine mounts wasnt quite happy with engine position all perfect now . sump has had its test fit and i ready to finish up the welding on it . brake lines and dummy driveshaft will be next weeks job. oh the joys of building cars

can you tell me wot jets you are running? from what i can see in the photo the rear carb is been choked with the air filters squashed against the battery. Has the distributor been re curved? wot distributor does it have bosch or motorcraft. with a bosch distributor i run it about 10 deg static motorcraft about 8 deg static. 0.025" points gap 0.025 plug gap and no vacume advance jets to start with 36mm chokes 7772.6 or 7772.5 Emulsion tubes 145 Main jet 190 Air corrector idle jet size 50/55 idle air jet holder size 7850.2 i would start tuning with a 45 idle jet to prevent plug fouling ideal idle mixture should be between 1.5 and 2.5 turns out. (MAKE SURE THE CARBS ARE BALANCED FLOATS ARE SET AND TIMING IS CORRECT BEFORE ANY JET CHANGES ) You will have trouble otherwise. Are you running electric fuel pump or standard mechanical? if electric you must not exceed 3.5 psi or they will flood and leak fuel. basics for jetting are idle jet works from roughly idle to 1700 rpm main from 1700 to 3500 rpm airs from 3500 rpm up give or take. besy way is to get idle right then road tune to 3500rpm using light throttle by checking sparkplug colour every 1000rpm ( hot shutdowns) it should be biscut brown then when thats right do some full throttle runs checking plug color dont idle between tests plugs can change color very quickly. it all takes time but it is possible good way to learn your carbs too. note generally if it surges and backfires out the carb its lean and if it boggs and bacfires out exhaust its rich

massive hilux axle wont break that sucker

few more things sorted ive completed my pedal box fits mint. just needs pulling to bits again for blasting and painting. got the dummyblock and box back in the shell doing the final adjustment of the winged sump before the final weld. also about to start my new exhaust system get it up nice and high no scrapages bought one of those multi bend pipes with a 180deg 90 deg and 2 45 deg bends recon i can do a better job than the local exhaust shop. anyone know where to buy driveshaft tube? finding it hard to get.

try this link its got a few escort porting basics where to cut and where not to few ideas anyways http://performanceforums.com/forums/sho ... flow-(Kent)-alloy-head/page2

ive done my own porting but still cant beat professional porting with a flow bench depends on how much power your after and how much you have to spend my head alone cost me $1100 to get done with flow bench 10 years ago. and he also supplied the correct cam for the job was done by kevin ban when he lived in tauranga before he owned kefords.

rn25 diff fitted direct bolt in easy didnt believe it no mods at all need to get pcd changed to 4x108 but no biggie also got van primed this weekend looks good finally seeing progress

im keen too got the mk1 back on the road blow some cobwebs out of it

i wouldnt blast the whole van just blast lower panels most common place for rust is A pillar, firewall, sills, front floor pans, front of guards, lower front guards, lower rear quarters i also found rust at rear of rear inner guards normally if i find an escort without rust in floor pans or firewall it is a goodie they are the first to go floor pans are easy to get from palmside in chch about $75 per side they fit nice

another busy week...end got the front panel all sorted (bit of technical moulding compound) made a new inner guard panel and repaired the rust in the bottom corner test fitted the bonnet and doors got all to line up pretty good almost ready for a complete coat of primer to start the (technical moulding compound process ) bogging:) sorry one more shot of engine in car more room around that engine than the crossflow with sidedrafts

cheers bro is gonna be a long project starting to see the end

undersealing done

another busy day had the entire underfloor sandblasted and primed ready for new coat of underseal looks good found very little rust few pinholes nothin major at all stoked as finished all rust repairs yay 1 rust free escort van have now given the underside a new coat of underseal looks fab. also finished cleaning and painting front crossmember and suspension bits fitting all new nolathane bushes . also have a hilux diff on the way from an rn25 hilux which means no shortening needed yay again i can almost smell the rubber burning

another busy weekend more rust removed found more

no cortina pinto extractors will not fit escort they foul the steering shaft escort generally have 4-2-1 extractor cortina normally have 4-1

been a busy few weeks right weather for it. got r/front guard all repaired sills down r/h side patched up got the big dent out of the r/r guard (almost) . drivers door lined up nice found one more little patch of rust in lower rear guard then the right side will be rust free yay

think ive got it sorted now

first build was of my mk1 escort back in 1998 1600 xflow twin webers lots of engine work goes real good still got it in the shed then i built a car for my bro a dirty old mini full ground up bare metal build lots of new bits 1330 balanced massive port work weber ect [imghttp][/img] now my current toy building it for skids and fun car not going to get carried awawy with bodywork gonna try to keep it a bit sleeper [imghttp][/img] 1980 escort van 4age smallport twin 45 delortos t50 box hopefully completed by xmas