spiderwebfx

I'm pretty sure it is the ute. Like I said, with the trailer not plugged in. I've tested the brake wire on the plug with every other wire (including the ground) and it has current. I pulled the rear lights and inspected them and there appears to be nothing wrong with them or the wires. Plug definitely has the earth. I've checked that, and replaced the earth wire from the plug to where it joins the chassis loom. Where I'm at now is actually pulling the chassis loom apart and inspecting the brake wires in there.

Definitely not the plug. That was the first thing I checked.

That's how it's suppose to be. That was a mate of mine doing all the welding. Pretty sure he burned himself a couple of times. His hands though, not his feet.

Would this 'cause the brakes on the ute to work funny? I've checked the brake wires back to where it joins the main vehicle loom and there is no problems with it there. Trying to decide the next place to look. I.e. rear brake lights, just follow the loom or?

Just a quick photo from when I had to move house: This is sitting on the front suspension above. Adjustable spring perches in the rear and ROH 15x7 +6 wheels I got of my Grandfathers Studebaker.

As for the front suspension. Decided to go the S13/S14 hybrid suspension route, four pot turbo brake calipers and also put in a S14 power steering rack. Front suspension consists of: S14 Cusco coilovers. (Dual camber adjustment. Slotted mount and camber plates.) S14 hub carrier. S14 turbo five stud hubs. S14 castor rod brackets. S13 adjustable castor arms S13 lower control arms with Nolathane bushes and S14 balljoint. S13 swaybar with Nolathane bushes. Front brakes: S14 four pot turbo calipers. S14 Znoelli S12 rotors. S14 EBC Yellowstuff brake pads. The rotors and pads I pulled off my S14 before I sold it. Photo is from when they were new. Steering rack: S14 steering rack. Custom spline shaft to mate S12 steering column to rack. S14 rack ends shortened 10mm. S14 tie rod ends. I'd like to get aftermarket rack ends and tie rod ends but it's huge expense even for second hand ones. I also bought the Techno Toy Tuning adjustable arms for the rear axle. Rear brakes are factory S14 calipers (with integrated handbrake) and new TSW rotors. I'm still figuring out how I can do this. I'm thinking of just dropping an S14 handbrake lever and cables straight into it.

Project Thread Discuss if you so wish.

Discussion Thread Time I posted up my ride. I've been trolling and adding a little bit of input to the forum where I can, but overall I'm a nobody without having posted my project. It's not as old as a lot of other projects on here, but I'm going to post it anyway. Anyway... In August 2010, I bought this: I bought the car with no engine, gearbox, or driveshaft. One of the first things I did was pull everything out of the engine bay so I could respray it. I gave it a good sand and did some anti-rust prep. I etched primed it to get a good base and then sprayed it with Icy White paint. I bought a S15 SR20DE and manual gearbox to go in it. Then it sat on the ground for 12months while I mucked around with other stuff. I bought a shortened 2WD Hilux diff for it and cut the old diff housing up so I could weld the brackets and everything on to fit it in. Five stud conversion ftw!

On the trailer? Only reason I ask is because when I'm testing the circuits without the trailer plugged in, I get current from the brake light to every other wire.

No, don't have another car to hook it up to atm. I can try again on Monday, just wanted it sorted as I need to use it tonight.

Hey all, I've got a problem with one of our work trailers and I can't for the life of me figure out the problem. It is a lighting issue, and everything works fine until the brakes are applied. Left indicator does left, right indicator does right, taillights work. When the brakes are applied, the light up every bulb! If they're applied when the right indicator is on, the right indicator stops and left side blinks and vice versa. The indicators also make the taillight bulbs dim when on. I checked the wires with a volt meter and I think the problem is the ute not the trailer. When the brakes are applied, I get a voltage reading between the brake wire and all other wires. Everything else is fine. Makes me think that the wires are crossing over somewhere but I don't know where. All the lights on the ute work fine. Has anyone got any thoughts?

How long is a full roll? I know you can buy them in different lengths, i.e. 5m, 10m, 20m etc... I bought 12m of bundy tube from Repco for $50 (I think), but at the time I didn't know where else I could get it.

Haha right. Thoughts on these ones: http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r97108825#enlargeimg

So you'd recommend the ZShop ones?

These ones? Keen on more information on both of these.

I've decided to go with custom steel wheels on my S12 but have to run 25mm spacers on the front of it. To make this fit, I am going to need to run flares or something as the wheel centre fits flush with the guard (not taking into account the lip of the rim that sticks out another 25-30mm). I've done some research and Zg Fairlady flares will fit perfectly but I can't figure out where I can get them. I know that they are 2 1/4" (57mm) so thought maybe these ones from Trademe would work but I'm not so sure. Can anyone chuck in some personal experience and recommendations? Just some info on the car: Silvia S12 Front: S13/S14 Hybrid front suspension. S12 Crossmember, S13 front LCA's, S14 coilovers, S14 5 stud hubs, S14 turbo calipers and rotors. Rear: Toyota Hilux diff (live axle), 5 stud, S14 rear calipers and rotors. Wheels I want to run: Front: 15x8 Soft-8's with 205/50(or 55)R15 tyres. Custom offset (TBC). Rear: 15x9 Soft-8's with 225/45(or 50)R15 tyres. Custom offset (TBC) I may go 10's on the rear if I go with flares.

Awesome stuff, thanks for the reply! Also, while I'm at it, what is the main reason for rose joints / cheap aftermarket arms failing certs, and are their any special requirements for aftermarket tie rods ends as opposed to any other rose jointed end?

For a cert do rose joints have to be kevlar lined or will they settle for teflon lined ones? Got a set of Techno Toy Tuning 4-links for my s12 and they are Teflon lined, I'm now hoping I can actually certify them.

This is only in 16 or 17" upwards. The T1R's are still being produced in the smaller sizes: 13", 14" and 15".

If Toyo don't have the 225/40R14 in stock they will be able to bring them in.

Just throwing it out there but the one you can buy at Repco I'm pretty sure isn't that expensive.

Why is this? I've heard of it before, but my work truck has just been to the mechanic and we have been told that it has trouble starting because it's lost most of it's compression. (current 240psi, should be 400psi) but they did still recommend doing it.

I learned most of my photoshop of this site: http://pixel2life.com It's got everything from photo touch ups and manipulations to creating abstract pieces from scratch.

Some cars only have one reverse light though? I thought it was; if the car has reverse light/s, they must work. If it doesn't have them, then obviously they can't and don't need to work.

I am in Rotorua but when I get mine 3 years ago, I went to AA and got my Class 2 learners, it was around $120 I think. Two days later I went and did a private course to get my full. It consists of about 4-5hours of theory work, (log books, loading etc) and then we took a work truck for an hour long drive. This cost $500. The tutor wrote out a temporary license and said my new one will show up in the mail within 28days. I didn't have to go back to the AA and get it there as mentioned above? Also, it was 3 years a go, the costs above are what work paid back then, I do not know if they are different now. Just ring around and get prices and find out how long it takes. Some places will do one or two people at a time while others will have a class of roughly 10 for theory and take each for a drive afterwards. I got the former option which is so much easier and quicker. (And no idiots to slow it down.)