SOHC

I have a home made furnace and home made LPG burner, my crucible is steel pipe, I would be keen to see your induction furnace

Yes it all goes to the top, then you scoop it off with with a piece of flat bar,

Made this cast intake manafold adaptor a wile ago for an old ford, made the mold from roofing silicone and plaster, then slip cast the wax mold and did the fire proof mold around that using plaster and molochite mix, used beer cans old pistons and one of those aluminium security grills for the aluminium. Cast a few stupid shifter knobs and shit to

50 series = hardly can tell its a v8

Cool Flowmaster shouldn't be too loud, I had a 50 series on my cleveland powered falcon and I thought it was too quiet. are you getting a 40 series? they are a bit louder.

Must be exhaust system time?

Have you got a drop base for that filter? would be a shame to have to cut a hole in the bonnet

Yes and no, industrial furnaces use natrual gas and a blower, it wouldn't work with your gas welder tho

you might buckle and warp your panels if you used an LPG burner to heat your gurds, the flame is quit big. A normal oxyacetylene welding set up can be adaped to use lpg by counter sinking the tip holes a bit, even the cutting torch, its not as good as acetylene tho. I do alot of steel,bronze,copper work and have made 2 home made lpg burners witch are 20 times better than anything you could buy, they will heat up big chunks of steel to a dull red in to time

about 11 hours of work I have compleatley rebuilt the front end, bushes balljoints and other bugged crap was replaced, there was a mint 240 at the wreckers and I got the whole strut, brakes ect, witch were nealy brand new, put a new set of bearings in them, and new-old backing plates disk cover things. its hard work bleeding brakes by yourself, I am hoping it will sought it self out tonight I should go back and get the rear diff and brakes.

I am on the turbo bricks forum, they are being downers at the moment tho.

can some one please help me with this, I got some control arm bushes from the mount shop, the mount shop book sed there was a left and a right for some reson, one side was half a mm longer than the other and had a 1.5mm bigger flange. you can see on thhis page PAT No# 39h007 and 39h008 https://www.mountshop.co.nz/PassengerDisplayProducts.asp?passenger=Y&displaymake=Y&SubGroup2=N&category=39&SecondSusp=Y&master_group=11&stock_subgroup2=73&sub_group=12#maincontent Is this a fuck up in there book? or is it right?

The more I think about this the better it sounds, it would save alot of money and time, its just an old shitter of a Volvo, and like you say it might out last the car.

if the motor is turning over with the way you have described you have put the lead to the + on the starter, if it was the other way it would just spark

Run another wire from the + on the battery to the + on the coil

I am in Auckland,

I sent him a question asking if he had some, he is in wellington?

II will rember the name of that stuff for next time I find a loose bearing, alternators allways seem to have lose bearings, it might be good to use there. Are crank shafts still as strong when they have been metal sprayed?

Cool thank you, I will talk to Durty, I hate to think they would cost new, I spent $260 on bushes today and that was at trade price from the mount shop. BELZONA 1111 sounds pretty good but I don't think it would hold out on an axle, its only a 3 thou gap, maby maby as a last shot resort I would use it

I am so depressed right now

I will take a photo now and put it up, looks to be part of the bottom strut. things were going too well for me with this car

It would have done the opposite and made it soft, I am not sure about metal spraying and stub axles, I have been told that's a no no. is it posable to remove them from the strut or are they part of it?

My daily drive 81 Volvo 245 GLE was making a clunking sound from both front wheels, and there was play in the bearings but when I pulled it all apart it had spun the inner bearings and worn into the axle shaft and turned it blue. What would cause this? is there anyway to fix it with out replacing the stubs? they are part of the strut. anyone got any? I need to get this done before Monday

a full roll of copper nicke cost me $50 something from autostop, ask if you can have it for trade price. the steel bundy tube is hard on the cheep flairing tools,

Using diffrent watt bulbs will cause that light to come on make sure the bulbs are maching sets made by the same compony