Matteybean

Matteybeans ms65 1973 crown

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I had this booked in for a warrant tomorrow at 4pm but having more electrical issues haha.

Suggestions welcome.

The interior cluster lights, center console lights and tail lights are no longer working.

They were working few days ago because I got some replacement bulbs and hooked up the number plate lights.

Anyway a run down of what I've looked at.

Fuses in drivers kick panel - they are all fine.

Headlights work when using switch and cluster has power to it clock works, high beam light turns on when dip switch pressed.

The tail light parking lights, brake lights, reverse lights all working as they should just not the lights. 1 side new bulb other was fine. 

All the hazards at all 4 corners work which is why I'm thinking must be something basic.

I removed the cluster to make sure it was all plugged in properly. 

I've got a spare light switch which I've checked for continuity as per manual so I no the switch works.

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Current state of affairs

Thanks

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Ok so plan didnt work. I was unable to get the polyurethane to bond to the cleaned transmission steel mount.

This photo was taken after I had handled it abit hence why dirty.

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I noticed it was starting to come apart when I went to drill the cross member over 10mm

Anyway that sucked. 

I found a crowd in Auckland that makes custom rubber mounts "for a fraction of the cost of getting a new one" and was a 3 week turn around due to the slow bondage.

 

Anyway $125 nzd and ones on the way from Kentucky USA. ETA first week november.

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And looking at this photo it explains why the driveshaft was touching the transmission was meant to sit up higher.

 

Hooked up tacho in engine bay ready to get idle sorted. I left enough cable incase I decide to run this. It's an old Smith's tachometer.

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I've also fixed the wiring issue there was a burnt 12v ignition feed behind dash so once I replaced that and couple rogue fuses it all works again.

 

Just waiting on transmission mount and should be away laughing.

 

 

 

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Transmission mount turned up.

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Chucked it in 

 

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Motor seems to be surging at idle so will check all vacuum lines etc again and doesnt like to idle under 1000 (tacho may be out abit) it's an oldie 

 

 

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After fucking around with the carb and doing some diagnostics it was deemed the new Ebay chinese 200 dollar delivered to my door carburetor is fucked. Who would of thought

I switched back to the old carburetor and it started first pop

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Red wire is starter wire for starting at engine bay.

 

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Idled mint. Sounded mint so went for a hoon and ran like a dream.

 

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Got back home and transmission fluid was pissing out of a rubber hose that had fully split! Lucky was only on my street.

I installed my new Fenix oil cooler with new hoses shortly after.

 

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I also noticed the rear output shaft where it met the driveshaft was leaking so decided to fix that while I had transmission drained.

 

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Repco has a listing and had one in stock.

Bit of a bitch to get out I used an oil seal puller. Got it out in the end.

 

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After a quick search the easiest way to install the new one was to use a 50mm pvc cap or the likes of (I used a 50x40 bush as its thicker) and tapped it in with a hammer.

 

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Once back in I used the same method to put the dust and retainer.

 

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Driveshaft back on and buttoned up and re filled with fluid.

 

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It was running really well so i drove it to my mates place and that's where it all started to go wrong..

 

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I guess all the cranking over till the battery dead has killed the battery and its lost its charge so I had to get jump started to go home.

 

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On the way home it suddenly started to loose all power for a split second but it was getting worse. I managed to get off the motorway but it ended up dying in a pretty rough area in takanini and with the battery flat and it getting dark it was decided I'd get a tow truck...

The battery was still under warranty so I was able to swap it out. Got a much bigger 530cca battery this time round

 

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When installing the battery i quickly discovered the accelerator pump on the carb was missing the spring and the split pin. Which would explain why it lost power.

I'm hoping any spring in the same diameter and length will do the trick but will check 

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Getting closer.

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Bushes turned up so I started chucking em in.

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Unfortunately I couldnt get other side in will go somewhere and get it pressed in tomorrow.

 

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Got the lower arm bush in too and installed it back in car along with new swaybar bushes

 

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Black I just removed reds came with the car. They are slightly less in diameter and a coil less? Thought I'd chuck em in see what happens

 

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Thanks for looking 

 

 

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I ended up removing the passenger upper and lower control arms and I've replaced all the bushes including swaybar.

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I picked up my pitman arm looks good 

 

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My inner tie rod also arrived.

 

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Before I removed the old one I marked where to wind it in till and matched it up with this one.

 

All back in and steering feels really nice now you beauty.

 

I've wired up my park lights and theyre working mint now, replaced a couple of blown bulbs in the rear too.

Tomorrow I'll weld in a center exhaust hanger and should be ready for the re check friday afternoon.

 

 

 

 

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Welded on an exhaust hanger tonight and did a bolt check, everything's buttoned up and ready for wof re check tomorrow.

See what wof man says.. turns out those red springs are lowering springs.. and completely slammed the crown.

Juuuust under 100mm to cross member

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