Matteybean Posted September 29, 2020 Author Share Posted September 29, 2020 I had this booked in for a warrant tomorrow at 4pm but having more electrical issues haha. Suggestions welcome. The interior cluster lights, center console lights and tail lights are no longer working. They were working few days ago because I got some replacement bulbs and hooked up the number plate lights. Anyway a run down of what I've looked at. Fuses in drivers kick panel - they are all fine. Headlights work when using switch and cluster has power to it clock works, high beam light turns on when dip switch pressed. The tail light parking lights, brake lights, reverse lights all working as they should just not the lights. 1 side new bulb other was fine. All the hazards at all 4 corners work which is why I'm thinking must be something basic. I removed the cluster to make sure it was all plugged in properly. I've got a spare light switch which I've checked for continuity as per manual so I no the switch works. Current state of affairs Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Matteybean Posted October 1, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 1, 2020 Got over the wiring side of things so put the gearbox mount back in and went for another hoon. It's all going pretty well and ready for its first voyage to gas station. The driveshaft seems to skim the passenger some of the chassis so I'm going to center it as opposite side has about 20mm clearance. It it's still abit close I'll put a 10mm steel spacer under mount to lift it slightly Re drill gearbox cross member to centerline the gearbox/cross member. Put bonnet on. Cruise. Wof booked for next Saturday. Fuck the tail lights. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matteybean Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 Ok so plan didnt work. I was unable to get the polyurethane to bond to the cleaned transmission steel mount. This photo was taken after I had handled it abit hence why dirty. I noticed it was starting to come apart when I went to drill the cross member over 10mm Anyway that sucked. I found a crowd in Auckland that makes custom rubber mounts "for a fraction of the cost of getting a new one" and was a 3 week turn around due to the slow bondage. Anyway $125 nzd and ones on the way from Kentucky USA. ETA first week november. And looking at this photo it explains why the driveshaft was touching the transmission was meant to sit up higher. Hooked up tacho in engine bay ready to get idle sorted. I left enough cable incase I decide to run this. It's an old Smith's tachometer. I've also fixed the wiring issue there was a burnt 12v ignition feed behind dash so once I replaced that and couple rogue fuses it all works again. Just waiting on transmission mount and should be away laughing. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matteybean Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 Transmission mount turned up. Chucked it in Motor seems to be surging at idle so will check all vacuum lines etc again and doesnt like to idle under 1000 (tacho may be out abit) it's an oldie 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Matteybean Posted November 1, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 1, 2020 After fucking around with the carb and doing some diagnostics it was deemed the new Ebay chinese 200 dollar delivered to my door carburetor is fucked. Who would of thought I switched back to the old carburetor and it started first pop Red wire is starter wire for starting at engine bay. Idled mint. Sounded mint so went for a hoon and ran like a dream. Got back home and transmission fluid was pissing out of a rubber hose that had fully split! Lucky was only on my street. I installed my new Fenix oil cooler with new hoses shortly after. I also noticed the rear output shaft where it met the driveshaft was leaking so decided to fix that while I had transmission drained. Repco has a listing and had one in stock. Bit of a bitch to get out I used an oil seal puller. Got it out in the end. After a quick search the easiest way to install the new one was to use a 50mm pvc cap or the likes of (I used a 50x40 bush as its thicker) and tapped it in with a hammer. Once back in I used the same method to put the dust and retainer. Driveshaft back on and buttoned up and re filled with fluid. It was running really well so i drove it to my mates place and that's where it all started to go wrong.. I guess all the cranking over till the battery dead has killed the battery and its lost its charge so I had to get jump started to go home. On the way home it suddenly started to loose all power for a split second but it was getting worse. I managed to get off the motorway but it ended up dying in a pretty rough area in takanini and with the battery flat and it getting dark it was decided I'd get a tow truck... The battery was still under warranty so I was able to swap it out. Got a much bigger 530cca battery this time round When installing the battery i quickly discovered the accelerator pump on the carb was missing the spring and the split pin. Which would explain why it lost power. I'm hoping any spring in the same diameter and length will do the trick but will check Getting closer. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Matteybean Posted November 22, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 22, 2020 I got a spring which works mint. I had a look under the car and saw a new puddle of transmission fluid Fuck! Front seal is leaking. I couldnt tell before because the sump gasket was leaking I thought it was just the sump fuck So out it came. I took the front transmission bolts off 1 at a time and cleaned up/siliconed and torqued back up. Bellhousing back on All in all wasnt too bad I had some good help we had it in and out in an afternoon. No more leaks! So I took it for a wof... All in all not too bad. I knew there was play in pitman arm from my mate showing methe day before when taking out trans. Few bulbs, rewire park lights to switch, I've removed the pitman arm and dropped it off to sas in east tamaki for rebuild $180+. Inner tie rod has been ordered along with superpro upper and lower control arm bushes and swaybar bushes. Chuck an exhaust mount on and I'm ready for beach hop. Easy. I started pulling shit apart. Only the drivers side control arm bushes need to be replaced for wof but I ordered bushes for both sides see how I go for time. Thanks for looking 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matteybean Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 Bushes turned up so I started chucking em in. Unfortunately I couldnt get other side in will go somewhere and get it pressed in tomorrow. Got the lower arm bush in too and installed it back in car along with new swaybar bushes Black I just removed reds came with the car. They are slightly less in diameter and a coil less? Thought I'd chuck em in see what happens Thanks for looking 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matteybean Posted November 25, 2020 Author Share Posted November 25, 2020 I ended up removing the passenger upper and lower control arms and I've replaced all the bushes including swaybar. I picked up my pitman arm looks good My inner tie rod also arrived. Before I removed the old one I marked where to wind it in till and matched it up with this one. All back in and steering feels really nice now you beauty. I've wired up my park lights and theyre working mint now, replaced a couple of blown bulbs in the rear too. Tomorrow I'll weld in a center exhaust hanger and should be ready for the re check friday afternoon. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matteybean Posted November 26, 2020 Author Share Posted November 26, 2020 Welded on an exhaust hanger tonight and did a bolt check, everything's buttoned up and ready for wof re check tomorrow. See what wof man says.. turns out those red springs are lowering springs.. and completely slammed the crown. Juuuust under 100mm to cross member 6 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Matteybean Posted December 15, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 15, 2020 Took crown back for its re check but it still failed on lower ball joint drivers side which was missed due to all the shit having play on drivers side. Buggar So ordered new ball joint and chucked it in. Butler auto mart in chch was only place in nz I could find it. Otherwise aussie. BOOOOOOM! See everyone tonight at Auckland monthly meet. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matteybean Posted December 18, 2020 Author Share Posted December 18, 2020 Soooo.... Decided to put the lowering springs in the rear with a mate of mine.. he didnt tighten up the lug nuts on his side and my wheel fell off on the motorway on my way to the Auckland monthly meet.. It could have been a shit load worse and I should have double checked but hes a mechanic, I handed him the powerbar so I "had" faith in his ability. Anyway I havent really had a good look at the damage. I managed to scissor jack it up on side of road to put wheel back on and I had it towed home. I'll have a look at it tomorrow. Heres some photos Nek minute Bit of arch and sill damage from tire coming out of guard/car smashing into concrete. Couple scuffs in door and guard from wheel bouncing off barrier and into car. Rotor doesnt look tooo bad. All the studs are there but will replace em.. i havent looked at under carriage damage yet I think the exhaust took most of the brunt. Rim got abit wrecked from the studs spinning out and rotor resting on it I'll get it checked for balancing/damage tomorrow. Shit happens 2 1 1 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Matteybean Posted January 9, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 9, 2021 Had a look at it before xmas I got extremely lucky with minimal damage really. Turns out getting replacement rotors in nz is existent. Aus is the go and cost a bit/come in pairs. It had warped by .01 and the flat spots sat outside the brake pads so straightened up the dust shield and put it back together. Got new wheel studs and Toyota chrome lug nuts Took the wheel into arrows wheel to have a look at it and its fucking straight as. Had some high spots but he gave it a quick tidy up and it's good to go. My speedo cable snapped so ive removed and taking to local guy next week to replace the inner. I've ordered some 20mm spring spacers from bnt for the front to lift up to 100mm off crossmember. Swapped out the front grill emblem for another one I have off a jdm grill which I plan to run with the square headlights that I also have. Picked up some headlight tint. 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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