f100_dreamin

Bens 1972 Plymouth Scamp

Recommended Posts

Did some more work on this tonight. 

Managed to remove the rear suspension and diff, 

45921981475_f8ba149867_b.jpg

 

46836486651_1605bbf0d6_b.jpg

then removed the fuel tank and fuel lines

45921980895_c9f9f17a23_b.jpg

 

46836486061_192937d3a1_b.jpg

 

now have plenty of room to play 

 

45921981115_dbf10ef8e0_b.jpg

still need to build a cradle to drop the engine and gearbox onto for easy removal, but first I need to get the torsion bars out which are proving to be very stubborn, there are plans on a mopar A body website of how to make a tool to remove them so that maybe the next step 

 

 

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not much to report, have just been working on removing the underseal, lots easier with a hoist, but still not fun. 

 

On the plus side I’m finding lots of nice metal. 

47149500792_735d90fb5d_b.jpg

 

46286881305_fddd46c13d_b.jpg

which has left a nice pile of crap on the floor

46286879195_0c3d9476c6_b.jpg

 

 

 

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Work on the scamp has been on the back burner a little bit lately. However a chap in my Hot rod club was in need of some 318 engine parts, so I removed the factory 2 barrel intel manifold and rebuilt carb, I could’ve stopped there but I was at a loose end so I decided to pull a head. 

Looks like it’s had a pretty poor service history it’s fairly black and gunky inside 

47602537281_bf3fef6758_b.jpg

nothing seems overly worn however

47602537391_6171053a20_b.jpg

Pistons have no markings to indicate being oversized

33725319518_371e5f2318_b.jpg

 

It has a small ring ridge which it to be expected, but a quick vernier of the bore (albeit on the ring ridge) shows 3.89”, stock bore should be 3.91” so looks to be stock bore 

heads are standard open chamber heads. Factory sized valves 1.78” in 1.5” exh. 

47602538211_a405616561_b.jpg

Obviously until I get it on the engine stand and drop the pants off there maybe a different story but at this point it looks like a good base to start a build with. 

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Scored some garage time to work on this cream puff, 

Decided to take a break from the underseal removal. 

started on Saturday by pulling the engine further to pieces, 

timing chain has seen better days

Not an issue as I already have a replacement double row chain that I got with my Cam kit. Proceeded to remove the cam to check the cam bearings. Unfortunately they’re goosed. 

47934061197_3ac57ca44d_b.jpg

 

47934061142_c82335742f_b.jpg

so I’ll speak to my machinist and organise to get the motor down to him to have them replaced. I’ve got the heads ready to drop to him anyway to have them machined to take the double valve springs. I’ll give the ports a tickle up when I get them back from him. 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Small update. 

Have rebuilt the front Callipers, new pistons and seals. And all painted up! 

48036158793_9bbc78a035_b.jpg

 

48036158883_05acdf9ac1_b.jpg

Also pulled the PS pump apart ready to take to work to clean up then I’ll re-assemble and modify the pump to reduce the amount of assistance (common modification over in the states as it’s way too light at higher speeds) 

Again it feels good to be putting parts back together 

also spoke to a local sand blaster and they reckon a couple of hours should get the underbody all finished up so I’m going to make a couple of frames so I can lower the car onto a trailer and take it to be blasted soon. 

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Since my last update I have re-kitted the P/S pump I’ve also shimmed the relief valve to lower the assistance given as the steering was too light at higher road speeds, 

48113444917_21453f8736_b.jpg

 

I’ve replaced all the inner and out tie rod ends and the drag link,

48113345281_8ca99a9308_b.jpg

 

I dropped the block, crank and heads off to my machinist, block had been acid tanked, honed and had the cam bearings replaced. The heads have been checked over, machined, machined to take the valve springs, couple of worn valve guides replaced. 

The valve springs turned into a bit of a headache, the double springs supplied with my cam kit ended up having 140lbs of swat pressure which is was too high for a hydraulic flat tappet cam, We ended up ditching the inner spring and shimming the outer to end up with 100lbs seat pressure. A bit annoying but at least it didn’t turn into a major. 

Dont have any photos yet as it’s all plastic wrapped as it will be a couple of weeks before I start assembling 

slowly coming together, made another couple of orders from rock auto

got a cam thrust plate with a tensioner (from a Dodge V6) as the factory 318 doesn’t have one, 

got some rubber lower arm inner bushes as apparently the complete polyurethane bush kit I got for the car doesn’t come with them (and no one lists a poly bush for it) 

ordered new rad hoses, bypass hose, rear spring shackles (as mine were too rusty) also ordered a starter motor from a 1992 dodge Dakota as with the headers I can’t use my factory starter due to the size. You can buy A/M mini starters but they are around $400, or as most of the guys in the states do you can get a Dakota starter and it’s basically a factory mini starter and at $71usd plus shipping it’s still way cheaper than an A/M unit. 

For now I need to let the bank account recover so ill be working on tidying up the rear suspension mounts and springs. 

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.