Bens 1972 Plymouth Scamp

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Did some more work on this tonight. 

Managed to remove the rear suspension and diff, 




then removed the fuel tank and fuel lines





now have plenty of room to play 



still need to build a cradle to drop the engine and gearbox onto for easy removal, but first I need to get the torsion bars out which are proving to be very stubborn, there are plans on a mopar A body website of how to make a tool to remove them so that maybe the next step 



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Not much to report, have just been working on removing the underseal, lots easier with a hoist, but still not fun. 


On the plus side I’m finding lots of nice metal. 




which has left a nice pile of crap on the floor





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Work on the scamp has been on the back burner a little bit lately. However a chap in my Hot rod club was in need of some 318 engine parts, so I removed the factory 2 barrel intel manifold and rebuilt carb, I could’ve stopped there but I was at a loose end so I decided to pull a head. 

Looks like it’s had a pretty poor service history it’s fairly black and gunky inside 


nothing seems overly worn however


Pistons have no markings to indicate being oversized



It has a small ring ridge which it to be expected, but a quick vernier of the bore (albeit on the ring ridge) shows 3.89”, stock bore should be 3.91” so looks to be stock bore 

heads are standard open chamber heads. Factory sized valves 1.78” in 1.5” exh. 


Obviously until I get it on the engine stand and drop the pants off there maybe a different story but at this point it looks like a good base to start a build with. 

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Scored some garage time to work on this cream puff, 

Decided to take a break from the underseal removal. 

started on Saturday by pulling the engine further to pieces, 

timing chain has seen better days

Not an issue as I already have a replacement double row chain that I got with my Cam kit. Proceeded to remove the cam to check the cam bearings. Unfortunately they’re goosed. 




so I’ll speak to my machinist and organise to get the motor down to him to have them replaced. I’ve got the heads ready to drop to him anyway to have them machined to take the double valve springs. I’ll give the ports a tickle up when I get them back from him. 



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Small update. 

Have rebuilt the front Callipers, new pistons and seals. And all painted up! 




Also pulled the PS pump apart ready to take to work to clean up then I’ll re-assemble and modify the pump to reduce the amount of assistance (common modification over in the states as it’s way too light at higher speeds) 

Again it feels good to be putting parts back together 

also spoke to a local sand blaster and they reckon a couple of hours should get the underbody all finished up so I’m going to make a couple of frames so I can lower the car onto a trailer and take it to be blasted soon. 

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Ended up not going to training tonight so decided to get the cam installed and degree’d 



found TDC, then set the Dti gauge up on the lifter (Ended up welding two old lifters together to make it easier to get the Dti gauge set up) found max lift and set Dti to zero, wound engine back .100” and then forward to .050” before max lift, noted the number the pointer was at on the degree wheel, the wound engine over until the lifter was at .050” after max lift again noted the number the pointer was on again, 

added the two numbers together and then divided by two, this gave me 112.5° intake centreline. Cam spec card is for 102° so was a bit out. pulled it all apart and advanced the cam 4° and started again, ended up with an intake centreline of 101°, 

so that where it will stay. Tomorrow night I’ll get the heads on an confirm there is no clearance issues. 

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Not a huge update, but progress is getting made. 

front suspension is all Re-bushed and repainted, and has new ball joints. Had a mission with the upper arms. 

the arms that came out of the car I managed to get the ball joints out of, but the bushes were seized into the arms. So I dug through all my parts and found the Aussie upper arms that came with all my front brake parts. Confirmed they are the same at the factory stuff. Bushes all came out easy. But the ball joints would not budge (shitty home made roll didn’t help) so I ended up welding an old axle nut to the top of the ball joint and using that to get them out. Got there in the end. 


I’ve also started cleaning up everything that bolts onto the engine, inlet manifold is all done


Still need to finish cleaning the sump then I’ll have everything sorted to paint the engine, still undecided with what to do with the rocker covers though 

1972 Plymouth

in that photo you can see it’s got a cool set of finned rocker covers I’m tempted to paint them the same colour as the inlet manifold and paint the fins black however I’m yet to decide, when I first got the car I had thought about doing them wrinkle black and then knocking the fins back to alloy so am a bit undecided there 

Discuss here:


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Well it’s been a while since I updated this. Life etc etc,
anyway, the inside of the boot has concerned me as the car has previously been involved in a rear end collision. I pulled the bumper and it looked alright, you can see where the RR has taken a hit and been repaired. However inside the boot has had copious amounts of seal sealer used inside it. I stripped it off on the RR only to find that instead of welding the rear panel brace back to the floor it had just had seal sealer smeared all over it.
Coupled with this the RR rear spring mount was out of shape and the LR was rusty, I made a cardboard template, and dropped it to a local shop that laser cuts and folds sheet metal.
The car is booked in on the 20th June to go to a buddy’s metal/restoration shop (R3 Fabrication in papakura) to have the rear end, spring mounts and a couple of small rust spots repaired,

I have also got my fuel tank all cleaned up, but I’m slowly running out out things to sort.
tank has come out a bit patchy (which looks worse because of the underbody Shultz) and I’m not sold on the black. 
may hit it with some silver and do the straps black 
I still need to paint my engine, I have all new frost plugs now.
So once it’s painted then I can start assembling ancillaries, and come up with a plan to run the Gilmour drive belt and P/S
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Decided I was unhappy with the black fuel tank so I threw a coat of silver on, it’s a bit better but I’m still not sold (and now it may not even end up being used, more on that below) 


got my replacement spring mounts back from being made


built a frame to put the car on so it can be moved around 



loaded the car up onto my mates car trailer and took it to Greg at R3 Fabrications (check them out on Facebook) 






Was a pretty nerve racking drive that’s for sure. Not that it moved at all but the height of the car on the trailer just felt wrong haha

Upon Greg looking at it he identified that the rear chassis rails have a slight downward kink, and the front is twisted to the right, so it’s going onto the chassis machine this week to be straightened and have the new spring mounts fitted, have the boot floor cut out (it’s basically uneconomical to repair due to the amount of creases in it, so we will replace it with a flat boot floor (which means the spare wheel well that the fuel tank mounts to is gone, hence the comment about not using the tank) I may end up running a drop tank or fuel cell. TBC at this point. Then I will pick it up and start saving to have the next stage of work done, (rust in the outer 1/4s Which Greg believes will be best to stitch a couple of whole 1/4s on) 


One step closer.....


discuss here: 


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Well I picked the car up from R3 Fabrications, well I picked up what’s left of it haha, 


that’s all the parts that were on the car when I dropped it off, 

car is all straight and back home so that I can continue to strip under seal off, and start saving, plan will be to buy new rear 1/4s from the states, have it blasted and dropped back to R3 to be put back together so is a sizeably large financial requirement so may be a while away, 








And now there is an internal fight with myself as to whether I should Or shouldn’t mini tub it while it’s in this state 



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Finally managed to get to zebra to get a rear diff from an explorer, I missed out on the one @cletus told me about because I was slack. 

anyway Zebra finally had one come into stock at the end of June so I went out this morning and plucked it out of this 


gladly all bolts came out with out a fight and it ended up with this 



It’s 8.8 inches of Ford goodness, 31 spline axles, factory disc brakes with onboard handbrake, it’s a 3L73 so 3.73 ratio LSD, need to source another short side axle, shorten the long side down 3” and it will be just narrower than the factory mopar and is the same stud pattern as the VJ valiant front brakes I’m using,  it’s a well documented thing to do in the USA so there’s an abundance of information about it online. 

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