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Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000


Adoom
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  • 3 weeks later...
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  • 6 months later...

This shit takes fucking ages to do.  There's no way I could afford to pay someone to do it.

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I made enough room to get at the engine mount bolt. Once the pipes are welded to the flange, I have to lift the engine slightly to get the flange over the studs because it hits the chassis rail. I'm aiming  to be able to remove the engine with the exhaust attached.

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I don't even get a straight run through this gap. To keep clear of the universal, that pipe is rotated towards the block, then I can use ~25mm straight before a 14 degree bend. Then a bit more straight I think. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Found what was causing the intermittent wire feed when I used 0.6mm. Turns out the drive motor can move a little on it's mounting bolts, 10 or so years of tightening the roller had shifted the drive wheel down a little bit so the mechanism bottoms out before it's tight enough for the thinner wire.

Fixed now. YAY! It was so frustrating.

Zip zap.  Got rid of the ugly seam flange thing.

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Welded inside first.

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Then cut off the flange and welded the outside. Then linished and used the knotted wire brush to show up any gaps I missed. Then weld and repeat until no gaps.

I also welded up some rivet and bolt holes that are no longer required. I need to cut some round patches for the original heater pipe holes because I've relocated them.

I've also welded in the modified cross member, but the photo was blurry. I still need to make some filler bits for the 'corners'.

     

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Cut out the rust.

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Stole a bit from the other car. Then spent what must have been HOURS getting it to fit properly.

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I did minimal linishing at the back because it's hidden behind the dash.

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Then I cut out a new bit for the front and spent another age getting it to fit.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I welded in some flat plates where I will build some three sided pyramids out of tube to support the diff cradle thing.20210112_204128.thumb.jpg.6334e45fc23ea3165e48cee4b302c200.jpg

And here are some pictures of the drive flanges, just because.

And I have been paying attention to how the diff will go in. I have not made it so it will be impossible to remove. :D

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The original oil filter housing wants to be in the same space as the steering rack.

So I decided to modify it and make it remote.

This was my first attempt at aluminium welding, so it's a bit lumpy.

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It turned out okay.

But I messed up drilling the engine side to straighten up the holes and cut into the sealing surface.

So I had to make a new one. but it has a funny shaped figure 8 o'ring.

So I had to break out the rotary table and use it for the first time.

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It turned out quite well.

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The holes are actually too close together for the AN fittings so I need to find some solution to that.

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Got some motivation to continue with the exhaust manifold. I'm just gonna do a log on the passenger side because there's no steering shaft to try get around. Hopefully that doesn't make the exhaust sound weird.

Did just a little bit of welding and realised Argon is on empty! Fuuuuck, I only just filled up the week before xmas.

At 8L/m that's about 3.5 hours of solid welding.... have I really done that much?!

Not sure if it's worth the effort of using mandrel bends for the two middle runners.... they will only be 15-20mm long... is it going to make any difference if I just use straight pipe.

I made a cone to step up the size, looks much better than that factory one where it seems like they just fill the gap with weld.

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Since you guys insisted I use mandrel bends for the short runners rather than straight pipe, here you go. The first one didn't quite fit but I covered it in masking tape to make a template that was more or less the correct shape.

I've still got no tig gas, so used the mig to tack it together.

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I used some hitech spacers and mounting solution for the cross over pipe. 

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The last runner is going to be a real bitch to fit because it needs to merge right in the middle of the larger bend.

The downpipe will have a v-band somewhere.

I should probably put it back in the car while it's only tacked together, to check it still fits. 

 

I also happened to notice this atrocity which is the clutch slave cylinder mounting bolts.

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I assume it was like this from new..... so someone paid ~$700 for this niteparts(?) bellhousing and was apparently all cool with these cockeyed bolts.

I'm not cool with it, I've got to find a way to fix that, it's fucking terrible.

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