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Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000


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So despite bolting it to a big bit of metal, the shrinking from the welded patch has lifted the front of the sump up about 1-2mm. Pretty sure if it was not clamped down at all I would have ended up with a pringle.

Not sure what I should do.

Bolt it to the engine and hope for the best?

Bolt it to the the jig and heat it up? With...?

Found some guy on Youtube showing how to take a bow out of an aluminium cylinder head by clamping it to a plate with some shims so the clamping reverses the bow, then stick it in a 260 Celsius oven for 5-6 hours. This seems like the go, but no idea who could do this and how much it would cost.





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After properly measuring the thickness of the lugs on the old calipers, I could use the 50mm facing mill thing to take the bracket down to final thickness of 18mm(not 15mm).

I also machined the other bracket to final thickness.

I really need to sort out some parallels for the milling vice. I've been using my lathe tools as parallels :/ because they were the only things I had that were a suitable size and uniform thickness. 



Here's the 3rd blank which I hopefully won't need. Also the blanks for the sandwich plates for the discs. So glad I got them to plasma the 50mm hole in the middle, I would have taken forever to whittle out on my little lathe.

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Sooo when I was chasing out all the threads I managed to put the wrong pitch M10 tap through one of the bellhousing mount holes.

So had to invest in some thread repair kits.


OUCH! My wallet.

I got an M6 at the same time because there are some stripped threads on the gearbox. ...the gear lever retention plate thing is held down by four M6 bolts and all the holes are stripped. 

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So since the engine mounts were welded to the chassis rails. And the modified sump is back on the engine. I suppose I can put the engine back in and figure out how much I can lift the steering rack back up.

Shouldn't take long.... the engine was already on the crane.

So I put the engine in the hole, I put one bolt through the left engine mount because that one got there first. Just lower it a bit more and slide the right side bolt through......


The hole doesn't line up.

It's off by 3-4mm...

Is it just the urethane?

I'll try align it with a big screw driver... Nope that's didn't work.

Have the chassis rails spread?!

Offers up front cross member. Nope those bolt holes still line up.

Did I put the engine mounts on the wrong sides after painting? Surely not.

Swaps mounts around.

Puts one bolt through. Other side still still doesn't line up. And engine now tilted nose down.

So I suspect, that when I removed the engine, then cut the temporary tack welds to prep for fully welding the mounts, I pushed the mount plates much more snug against the chassis rails so they were further apart.


Simplest solution I can think of is to try shim the mounts off the engine block with washers to get the holes to line up again. Then I'll weld those washers to the mount so it cannot be installed without them.


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I did actually do stuff to this over the xmas break. But I didn't take many photos.

I finished modifying the front cross member and permanently mounted the rack. The easiest option ended up being to replicate the factory brackets. With the sump modified, I could lift the rack back up(still lower than factory) 16mm which meant I could remove the spacer between the rod end and the steering arm. This also gave me loads of clearance between the rod end and the wheel rim.

When I finished the cross member I thought, well, I guess it's time to take the suspension off the yellow car(where I was mocking up) and put it on this car.

I looked at the suspension and thought, I don't want to put those dirty, rusty parts on.... I guess I'll clean and paint them first. 



Cleaning and painting took ages. I used it to justify, to myself, buying a blasting cabinet.

I got new bearings. And ball joints for the lower arms.

I had a bit of a WTF moment when I tried to dry assemble the hubs with the discs and calipers.... And the calliper brackets didn't fit, like not by miles.

After being confused and sad, and sleeping on it. What I think happened was that the hub I used to make the caliper brackets had some ridges worn on the stud axle that caused the bearing to sit 4.5mm proud.

I decided that to only way to fix it was to machine 4.5mm off the back of the hub to move the disc.

Now it all bolts together.  



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I've also cleaned and painted the calipers. The pistons can be reused, but the rubbers are knackered, so I've got to get a rebuild kit before I can assemble them. They are 2003 Subaru Impreza 2 pot calipers. The rebuild kit from rock auto is really cheap, ~$17 with all the springy plates too, but freight is about $40. :( Surely I can get a rebuild kit for less than that locally?    

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And I got the rubbers on my way to work. Thanks Greg at MPAutoparts. It wasn't cheaper, but I get instant gratification, and I'd rather give Greg money than 'Murica.

I rebuilt the calipers after work. I dunno, but with the rubber gloves and the lube and the rubber parts and trying to fit things where they just don't seem to want to go, but then they do and it feels good, rebuilding calipers just seems slightly lewd.

Here's the left one, I'll let you imagine the right one, or you can just look at your screen in a mirror.


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So it turns out machining down the mounting face has weakened the hubs.... Cletus said he'd fail it. Waaah

I cut a spare/scrap one in half to check.


So the options I see so far are.

Make new hubs from scratch. Which will be a lot of machining with plenty of chances to turn my part to scrap if I make a mistake.

Or, get some WRX 4 pot calipers. Because they don't have a mounting bracket that interferes with the mounting lugs on the upright and that would allow me to move the caliper inboard to line up with the disc in its previous location(before I machined the hub). AFAIK the mounting hole spacing will be the same as the current calipers, so I can modify my existing adapter brackets.

The WRX ones look like this.


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