Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

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So despite bolting it to a big bit of metal, the shrinking from the welded patch has lifted the front of the sump up about 1-2mm. Pretty sure if it was not clamped down at all I would have ended up with a pringle.

Not sure what I should do.

Bolt it to the engine and hope for the best?

Bolt it to the the jig and heat it up? With...?

Found some guy on Youtube showing how to take a bow out of an aluminium cylinder head by clamping it to a plate with some shims so the clamping reverses the bow, then stick it in a 260 Celsius oven for 5-6 hours. This seems like the go, but no idea who could do this and how much it would cost.





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After properly measuring the thickness of the lugs on the old calipers, I could use the 50mm facing mill thing to take the bracket down to final thickness of 18mm(not 15mm).

I also machined the other bracket to final thickness.

I really need to sort out some parallels for the milling vice. I've been using my lathe tools as parallels :/ because they were the only things I had that were a suitable size and uniform thickness. 



Here's the 3rd blank which I hopefully won't need. Also the blanks for the sandwich plates for the discs. So glad I got them to plasma the 50mm hole in the middle, I would have taken forever to whittle out on my little lathe.

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Sorted out the bore size so it's the same as the disc bore.

Then I made a mandrel to stack the disc and the sandwich plate and the old disc, so I  could use the holes in the old disc as a drilling guide.







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Sooo when I was chasing out all the threads I managed to put the wrong pitch M10 tap through one of the bellhousing mount holes.

So had to invest in some thread repair kits.


OUCH! My wallet.

I got an M6 at the same time because there are some stripped threads on the gearbox. ...the gear lever retention plate thing is held down by four M6 bolts and all the holes are stripped. 

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So since the engine mounts were welded to the chassis rails. And the modified sump is back on the engine. I suppose I can put the engine back in and figure out how much I can lift the steering rack back up.

Shouldn't take long.... the engine was already on the crane.

So I put the engine in the hole, I put one bolt through the left engine mount because that one got there first. Just lower it a bit more and slide the right side bolt through......


The hole doesn't line up.

It's off by 3-4mm...

Is it just the urethane?

I'll try align it with a big screw driver... Nope that's didn't work.

Have the chassis rails spread?!

Offers up front cross member. Nope those bolt holes still line up.

Did I put the engine mounts on the wrong sides after painting? Surely not.

Swaps mounts around.

Puts one bolt through. Other side still still doesn't line up. And engine now tilted nose down.

So I suspect, that when I removed the engine, then cut the temporary tack welds to prep for fully welding the mounts, I pushed the mount plates much more snug against the chassis rails so they were further apart.


Simplest solution I can think of is to try shim the mounts off the engine block with washers to get the holes to line up again. Then I'll weld those washers to the mount so it cannot be installed without them.


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