Adoom Posted March 15, 2022 Author Share Posted March 15, 2022 Well shit. Apparently I was running real low on 0.9 mig wire. I just ran out mid-bead. Sigheth. I changed over to the 0.6 roll and swapped jobs to seam welding the thin edge of the cut floor to the cross member. Hopefully the local hardware store BOC agent has mig wire as well as gas. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted March 19, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 19, 2022 This side chassis rail... box section... whatever, is all welded. I'll linish back some of the welds. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted March 20, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 20, 2022 Linished... The holes are so I can spray some oily waxy antirust stuff in later. Then I started on the other side. Then I got distracted because I got some new blades for the reciprocating saw and chopped the gap for the tunnel. Then fit the tunnel.  I decided it would be too hard to bend a flange on the end so I will cut the flange as a separate piece and weld it on. 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted March 22, 2022 Author Share Posted March 22, 2022 Finished this side. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted March 23, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 23, 2022 Lunchtime zipzap Evening zipzap 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted March 24, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 24, 2022 Zapped the seat brace X thing back in. 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted March 28, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 28, 2022 Got good news from LVVTA today. My suspension/steering modifications don't meet the threshold to require design approval because the geometry is still OEM nissan/triumph. The suitability of the floor pan mods and mounting can be determined by the certifier. 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted April 3, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 3, 2022 I made a cradle, so now I can play airplane with my diff. It also does away with the dodgy balancing to try lift it straight onto the mounting studs. 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted May 2, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 2, 2022 Julian Cheer the local certifier came to look at the Triumph today. Nothing major to do. Engine mounts need more beef. I was on the fence about whether they were adequate anyway. I'll remake them in 6mm. Â Â And because I've butt-welded the subframe together to narrow it, he wants it double plated. It will be easy to do. I'll probably do something like this. No issues with the floor mods. He wants me to do a bump steer test on the rear suspension. He's going to drop off his bump steer testing bars later this week. I don't see why it would be any different to nissan OEM, I'm optimistic. 19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted June 7, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 7, 2022 Julian wanted me to plate over the butt weld. 17 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted July 9, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 9, 2022 Working out how to machine the steering arm with some aluminium I had. Much easier to machine than a big block of steel, that I don't have. I used the bandsaw to cut out that corner, much faster than turning it all to swarf. I had plans to machine the balljoint taper(the hole on the left) using the lathe. As it is now, I should be able to fit it in the big 4 jaw to center the hole. But I just tried a practice taper in some scrap and it seems real close, but the finish is not as smooth as the oem hole which I don't think is good enough. I'd buy a taper reamer, but OMFG they are expensive. Also, as far as I can accurately measure, the taper is 4 degrees(per side) and I cannot find anything that size. I think for the steel version, I'll get it profile cut as a rectangle, so I have my reference surfaces, but also cut out most of the material I need to remove. So I don't have to spend hours at the bandsaw cutting the outline, I would just need to cut some tabs. 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted July 16, 2022 Author Share Posted July 16, 2022 I found far too many NOPES for this setup to last longer than 5 seconds before exploding.  Maybe the faceplate......? That seems..... less dodgy. Never used a faceplate before.... Am I gonna die? Do I need some counterweight.... you know, so there's more shrapnel to fly off and hit me, or smash through the roof? How many rpm....? It's a small hole and aluminium, so quite fast.... but death and dismemberment do not appeal. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted August 16, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 16, 2022 So the taper I machined on the lathe was 'close' but not perfect. A little wide at the big end. But I thought, oh well, good enough to test with. Oh, maybe I'll take the welded prototype off the car. And compare it to the machined one. FUUUUUUUUUU!!!!!. So I somehow managed to fuck up the original measurement by 11mm. Then drew the scale drawing using that measurement. Then machined it from the drawing. So, start again. SOÂ SO MUCH SWARF! I also bought a tapered reamer. YAY! It's the correct taper angle. Ouch! It was $175! Only $16 shipping from USA though. In only 9 days?! 25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted September 4, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 4, 2022 After weeks of procrastination I finally found enough motivation to go out to the garage and machine some more steering arm. The non-critical dimensions are very rough, just enough for clearance to bolt it on. I still need to check for binding and measure the bump steer. Â 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted January 15, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 15, 2023 Filling in the hole. 1.2mm is so nice to weld. Â 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted January 23, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 23, 2023 I got all my holes filled. And drilled another orifice so I can tickle the nut on the diff mount. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted February 19, 2023 Author Share Posted February 19, 2023 I wanted to have a better tow bar mounting system than the factory one, which relied far to much on the spare wheel well sheet metal. I originally intended to fold up something that would replace the support for the boot floor boards. But I didn't have any suitable sheet metal and it would have been too long and thick to fit in my folder. So I decided that using some rectangular section would be FAR simpler. Â I made some access holes so I could weld in the captive nuts and if I ever need to replace them, I can get in there with a die grinder. I also notched the bottom with the mill so it fit over the raised sections of floor. Just a couple of spot welds on this side. I'm not sure if I should be worried about bending forces where it's welded on below the strut, it's 1.2mm sheet there, or if I should add some structure in to tie it in with the cross member above it... There is double skinned structure in the rear quarters that wraps around and across the back panel and ties into the bumper mounts, so the back of the car is actually supported. Gives me three M10X1.25 bolt holes. Don't mind the washers, they were just to clamp it for welding. Â Now I need to do the other side. Â Â 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted February 20, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 20, 2023 Also, I finally got around to getting my modified steering arms. Â Some finishing work required... One spare, so I only get one chance to fuck up. I had some citric acid already mixed in a bucket, so I chucked them in there to remove the mill scale, because I can. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted February 26, 2023 Author Share Posted February 26, 2023 Making the other side. The milled cut-outs are to clear the raised sections of the floor. Ready to weld. Well I'd better go procrastinate some more and have a drink and update my OS thread. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted February 26, 2023 Author Share Posted February 26, 2023 Zip zap, it's in. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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