Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted April 22, 2020 Author Popular Post Posted April 22, 2020 Well i went to finish fitting the airbox and for some reason it no longer fitted as it should (motor has been in and out a few time since then.) So this led to me redoing something i wasn't 100%happy with.... The way the motor sits so i lowered the mounts as far down as i could and cut the top of the tunnel off and made some 20mm spacers to lift the gear box up.. Now it sits so much better and the gearbox to driveshaft to diff is a better angle ..... As for the airbox not fitting as it use to (had an idea i was planning on doing to this anyway as the box is solid mounted and the trumpets will move inside it) Sooooooo seats out..center console out..top of tunnel cut off. Engine lower down on the mounts and gearbox spaced up 20mm New top made (it sits alot higher than factory so i had to make it to the shape of the center console ) So that led to me thinking about the shifter .. It was tall sloppy and the throw was ridiculous.. I have searched in the past and then spent somemore time yesterday searching for a short/quick shifter for it but there arnt any. .you can rebush them and that helps ..there was a guy on ebay selling home made ones years ago for stupid money and not anymore.. So i thought i would have ago at making one....so i pulled it apart I did also look at escort shifters as the thread is the same and you can get them off the shelf....but the ends are to different. So the throw factory is 120mm from 1st to 2nd and 60mm across the gate to 3rd and 4th.. I found a 20mm thick nut that fit perfectly over the shaft and cut it down to the same as the shifter base and i put a weld ontop of it as well The plastic thread on the shifter are crap (much like all ford ones) and wear out... i had some 40mm mild steel tube and it was a close size to the plastic threw...But i coulnt thread the bottom of the tube to fit the gearbox hole.... so i had a v clamp sitting on the self That was a nice fit over the outside of the shifter hole so i drilled 4 holes and its held in nice and tight with 4 grub screws. The vband was a lot bigger than the 400mm tube so i cut up a huge washer i had and used bits to center the tube and make welding easier It was at this point i ran out of welding gas yesterday...got some from a mate last night.. so its got some shitty gasless tacks holding it together and i pressed the plastic shifter base into the tube after cutting it to the size needed and stopped taking pics .but last night i welded it up cleaned it up and gave it a paint... cut the top of the escort shift off so the gearknob was a good fit. all together and mounted. throw from 1st to 2nd is now just under 60mm and sidewas to 3rd and 4th is now 30mm so i halfed the throw and it feels so much better and at a better hight. Center consoles back in and they sit a lot higher but you cant really notice it My heater ducting also turned up and i got the wrong size but a trial fit lets me know it will work perfectly. all back together .. and now i can get back to the airbox 12 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted April 24, 2020 Author Popular Post Posted April 24, 2020 i think this may have been the last bit to make from scratch ..and finish off the airbox. i started by started but cutting 1 bigger hole instead of the 6 holes...i will add some neoprene type material to the box around them so they can move up and down frely and still be mostly sealed off....but for now i mounting the bottom section in...i moved it to the end of the ITBs so that theres room for all the hardware and the linkages can move freely.. now the bottom is solidly mounted i can start making the top half... i could have done it nice any easy but ive had an image in my head for so long now of how i want it and i couldn't stop till i had it right...the problem i had was the bonnet curves to the side and curves to the front and the bottom half of the box wasn't 100% level...so i had to shut the bonnet and make the front and rear ends threw the hole for the filter. once i had them tacked in place i opened the bonnet and made the sides. i plan on using some stick on rubber strips to seal the top to the bottom .....but all in all its not a bad fit. i broke all the tacks pulled it off and welded it up then welded it back on and put it all back together. im pretty happy with that 14 Quote
d.p.n.s Posted April 25, 2020 Author Posted April 25, 2020 Been plsyng with the suzuki combination switched. figured out where the indicators are..and the lights (just need to test them) but got the 2003 controls to work with 70s cortina motor. got intermittent ( car never had it) slow speed and fast. Aswell as when you pull the stalk for window wash and the wiper kicks in.....got that ...lol ( never had it before) 4 Quote
d.p.n.s Posted April 25, 2020 Author Posted April 25, 2020 I'm also still got this image stuck in my head 7 1 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted May 17, 2020 Author Popular Post Posted May 17, 2020 been a bit shit lately..getting back into work and sorting my inlaws out so they can get back to the uk..(and i can have my house back) but in the past few weeks some parts have arrived. i managed to swap some chrome i had for 2 sets of tail light lenses ...both pre facelift and facelift ....not mint and a few cracks and chips but better then the ones i dont have for this and the black mk3. managed to some new upper front ball joints (still need lower) havd to go hydraulic clutch so i grabbed a master and slave with hose from a Nissan of some sort.......will have to find room and make it work with the pedal.. front disc..... i ended up keeping ti simple...(.over thought brakes in the past and had issues )...my mk5 has solid discs and ive had a trailer on that with another cortina on it and not had fade .also the aussie 6 cylinder cortinas had solid discs and later on a vented disc...the old type16 calipers arnt that bad its just the solid discs that are the let down... so i went for 2.8i capri v6 vented drilled and groved discs and a caliper spacer kit. and last but not least the link ecu.....its a pretty basic motor setup ..fuel and spark and i bought a new link (first ever for me all ways 2nd hand) atom x with loom air temp semsor and 1.5 map sensor....still need to grab a o2 and temp sensors ...it will be wasted spark and the atom has enough to do batch fire on a 6 cylinder so that will work fine. 13 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted May 24, 2020 Author Popular Post Posted May 24, 2020 so i decided to make an accelerator linkage ..found a factory bmw one here in nz and it was $420 ..............wow. thats more than what i payed for the ITBs ...it sits in the middle of them (what im after ) but the cable would have been over the rocker cover (not what im after ........and screw paying $420 for some steel bracket .. the bmw one i wanted to use a factory cable ...easy to replace and already fits the pedal...........one end sorted so i bought some m6 rod ends and some other random crap in the garage and made my own. all in all works well.....sits in the middle of the ITBs ..the bracket and cable are hidden at the end of the motor ..the hardest part was making it all work with the 45mm of movement in the cable the full travel of the pedal allowed.....but i got there in the end....still needs 1 more small brace welded in and a small tune....but it owes me $20 and im happy with that. 11 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted May 31, 2020 Author Popular Post Posted May 31, 2020 made a start on the clutch and brakes today. the mk3 has a pretty big booster much like this in my mk5 but i decided to ditch the booster and just run the master by its self. once you remove the booster from the mk3 it has the mounting face complete with captive nuts to run just the master (think the early mk3s were non busted.) for the hydraulic clutch setup i decided to use a nissan skyline setup including master slave and braided hose...once i decided where the master wanted to be i trimmed a small area and drilled the hole. i made a small bracket to hold the bolts and make bolting up easier. bracket in place and master bolted up. i needed to trim the corner of the pedal box to clear the clutch master but figered the 3 other bolts and 2 up under the dsah to hold the pedal box was plenty. the push rod for the clutch lined up right on the bend in the clutch pedal so i just drilled threw on a angle and welded a captive nut on. all on and working as well as slave cylinder on (had to slot the holes) hose on (ne) also need a release bearing and thats that done.ed to make some clips to keep the hose out the way now for the brake master ( removed the push rod from the booster as it matches the brake pedal) cut it down to work with the master cylinder. the master cylinder had a clip holding a washer stopping everything falling out so i found a washer same size but smaller ID so it just fits the shaft ...also put a slit in the shaft so i can put a circlip on the end and put it back together and used the factory master clip to keep the hole thing captive. both mounted all 3 pedals level and working as they should now its just a case of do i clean and rebuild this master or find a newer mk5 one . 10 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted June 14, 2020 Author Popular Post Posted June 14, 2020 ahhhhhhhhhhhhh winter ..strange time of year. work slows down and so does the extra cash....that and its bloody cold Leeds to me having a massive lack of motivation. but in saying that i got heaps down in the lock down and have had parts arriving from time to time so i have got a few things done today. calipers stripped , cleaned , painted and rebuilt with all new seals and pistons as well as a spacer kit. all bolted up to the cleaned and painted hubs and axles with all new seals and bearing (spacer came with washers to move the caliper over a wee bit but had to drill them out to fit.) bolted to the cleaned , painted and re bushed front end with new upper and lower ball joints..(used the old shocks and springs as they will be the very last thing i do when all the weight is in the car and i sort out height)....just need some tie rod ends and maybe look at doubling up the front swaybar or getting a bigger one made..and thats the front i couldnt find a good set of XF injectors so found a cleaned set of BA XR6 ones ...fit really and same plugs.. i have also been thinking of going coil on plug ..so i grabbed a set from the same BA XR6 ..they fit well and with a mount made and a heat shelf i think they will do the job...the only issues i can think of so far is if the XF TFI dizzy (hall effect) isnt a good enough trigger for the link atom ecu.(might have to sort another trigger out.) 12 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted June 21, 2020 Author Popular Post Posted June 21, 2020 was having a big clean up today and making room for the wife to park in the garage (1st time in 20 years lol).. put the diff in and slapped some rims on to roll it around but this is the closest its been to being on wheels in the past 2.5 years. 15 Quote
d.p.n.s Posted August 22, 2020 Author Posted August 22, 2020 small update. finally got the tie rod ends that i bought of ebay (had money in paypal account...used it.......took agers to get here).so i finally got around to putting actual wheels on it......looks good...........the i sold the brakes i put together for it............................................needs more braking i think. 6 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted September 2, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted September 2, 2024 Holy shit 4 years this poor old girl (my acutely dream mk3) has been sitting under a cover ....covered in shit. I stole ao much off this for the other mk3 .. I got a couple of pics few weeks back while I qas cleaning out the garage...... 4 years. But again I still have it.....old me qoild have sold this years ago. One day ill get back to her.....one day. I'll dig it out once Norman is on the road. This is Norman 13 Quote
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