tortron Posted March 2, 2019 Author Share Posted March 2, 2019 Heading out of summer now and I can't put up with water running down the loom into the fuse box any more. Running the loom through the fresh air vent and firewall is possibly the dumbest thing possible, it would have been less work to just cut the body loom hole bigger or even better run it under the guard. But I digress. Removed pretty much all the useless wires a few weeks back. This left me with only 10 or so to depin and feed back into the cab. Pretty easy Opted to cut and rejoin the main power feed as it split off into a lot of places. That left me with a roughly circular hole So I cut a roughly circular patch of 2mm sheet and welded it in And then painted inside and out Then fed the loom back into the bay with the rest of the wires. Taped most of it back up out of the way Not going to put much effort into this loom as I'm going to pull the while lot out and do it properly. Just enough to keep my sanity and not burn the truck down 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 Cool enough to stand to be in overalls today This is rusty It's got crappy weld new panels in over rust repairs So I cut it out Unstitched all the welds and cut out the spotwelds. Was just going to cut out the corner edge and replace that, but realised I didn't really want to spend the time to stitch a long strip into a big flat panel. Also the panel being a wheelwell in a wellside is full of small dings. Also it's pretty thin steel. Decided it would be best to make a new one out of 2mm sheet. Pretty quick, hardest part was getting enough leverage on my bender as I'm yet to make a proper handle. Anyway New one Sits in place without any help which is usually a good sign. Now to do everything else. At least it's no #Saab 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted March 23, 2019 Author Share Posted March 23, 2019 Cheese grater / tetanus application device removed and replaced 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted March 23, 2019 Author Share Posted March 23, 2019 And another slightly more in-depth one 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted March 24, 2019 Author Share Posted March 24, 2019 All stitched up and plugged together. Finding a few small pinholes, some previously tacked closed, and a few old patches. Explains some of the slight fettling required to get everything to fit flat to each other. But that's ok. Attached some of the wheel well enforcement's. Decided to drill some drain holes in them all. This will let me fill it with paint and chassis wax later. Also some in the smaller sections for the same reason and also to access the inside of the tie down bars. Need to pick up a few meters of 1" tube to replace the two rear ones (rusted out where they meet the wheel well, caused by those supports) have decided to keep them as they won't be in the way of my future plans. So will need to punch a hole in my new rear patch and weld the pipe before the re-enforcement can go back on. Nice and ridged again. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted April 26, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 26, 2019 Friggan lol 12 6 2 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 2, 2019 Author Share Posted June 2, 2019 Does anyone have a not fucked cab? Maybe some common sense and a number for a scrap collector? At least itl be quick to cut out that patch and get access to the inside there. 7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 3, 2019 Author Share Posted June 3, 2019 Without the bushing but You get the idea 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted June 4, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 4, 2019 Close enough for something that's going underneath the truck and getting coated in sealant? I made some dies up but a press won't fit in the golf, so hammered these out. Not totally embarrassed by them I guess 20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted June 6, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 6, 2019 So small problem This is not the floor This is the cab mount doubler plate/floor strengthening plate from inside the cab. The floor here is totally rusted away There was 2 tiny spot welds and some tar holding this corner of the truck to the chassis More and more fell out of it as I handled it. So going to need a new one Made a dimple die I don't have a lathe. I also needed about 15mm of steel. I have some 5mm flat bar and a welder. I did unspeakable things to my drill press and bench grinder to make this. Some 17mm ply backed with flat bar made the female side, but ply by itself was fine tbh. Used some of the 5mm bar scrap as a dolly with my bench vice to add that ridge and my new old kick press to bend the edges. Will trim to fit later on 19 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted June 7, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 7, 2019 Gotta make sure those rust traps are in the right spot Now to figure out what to do about the cab back. Normally the floor and cab back extend a little past the back of the cab. The entire corner where the two meet has been replaced, however they chose to weld an L section facing inside the cab (leaving the rusty seam in place and bogging to taste). Tempted to cut it all out and do it as per factory, but don't want to take the tray off etc. So might just go to the next bend in the floor and blend it somehow. Now that I have cut out the front and rear of the sill, I'm thinking I my as well cut the middle out too and replace with a single section. Oh yeah, I checked the passenger side mount. I took my glasses off andd turned out the light. Looks fine 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 14, 2019 Author Share Posted July 14, 2019 Yeah not sure what's going on here apprentice was let loose with the gas axe in here somehow. Guessing the sills were replaced at some stage. I think that strip of steel at the bottom is the remains of the original sill. For some reason the new one has a line of rivets. New every thing I guess Already done the front a while ago 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 29, 2019 Author Share Posted August 29, 2019 So much freaking tar everywhere I want to weld 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted August 29, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 29, 2019 Ok ok What a balls of a job Floor is in Inner sill is in Cab back patch is in Inner cab mount plate is in Outer cab mount is in New sill getting trimmed to fit Not sure if I need an inside sill bracket like what was shown gas axed above, doesn't exist in my parts book. 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted September 3, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 3, 2019 I can't get no satisfaction Except some times I do Was at a bit of a loss as to how to line the new sill up. Luckily A series engine components came to save the day. Looking at the step/scuff panel part of the door frame, it looked pretty squashed. Must have been stood in a few times. The section right in the middle where the seat frame mount is attached was unbent. So I used a rocker shaft from a 1098 Morris minor to reshape it. This must have worked because when I then set the top lip of the new sill where the old one was, the bottom of the inner sill also lined up (it was well out before) Needs another day to make a rear cab corner and join in the front of sill to the bit behind the guard 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted September 5, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 5, 2019 Close enough Fender is a reproduction, so I made a best guess as to panel gap. A little filler, a little seam seal and she's seamless 12 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted September 6, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 6, 2019 Door is being a pain in the ass to hang. The problem being that every point of reference has been dicked. Got the lines pretty good, but the bottom of the door over hangs the sill by a good 1cm in places How, I measured and checked everything and used the other door frame for reference. The sill is dead straight. Oh the door is bent Some hammer and dolly work and it's coming into shape. Looking at unmolested utes, there is a prominent angle here. Mine is smooth and bulbus . I assume it was either bent out to match the previous sill, or was bent already and the bogged the sill to match. (Same issue with the roof lines, bogged over and rounded off) 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted February 27, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 27, 2020 Door fits Opens without hitting anything Closes without hitting anything Is parallel with B pillar Is parallel with sill opening Sits flush everywhere All it took was totally reshaping the guard. Some spots were way out. The rear mounts had been welded on crooked. Added about 5mm in some places and skimmed a mm off in others Need to add a little at the A pillar, and probably add a little to the A pillar bottom edge itself. That lower bend/angle was different on the B pillar,door,and guard. At least it closes now FFS 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 14, 2020 Author Share Posted April 14, 2020 Picked some scabs on the passenger side. Didn't want to, but there was an obvious hole in the cab mount. Then I wondered about the sill, I have another so may as well check it out hole at front of sill I knew about/forgot about from when I did the firewall and inner guard repairs many Easters ago. This side has had its sill replaced too. And that means the old one is still there, it's just been half cut out, the edges hammered in, a replacement riveted on top, and then several layers of bog on, between, and under them. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 14, 2020 Author Share Posted April 14, 2020 This ment I could just make a big hole for access. Which is handy as this sides mount/floor is in better condition and I can take some decent measurements 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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