Johnny's bigblockpoweredstickcarthatdontshine

Recommended Posts

Nominal mate, thanks for the info awhile back re schedule line pipe and threaded rod. I pulled out the bits and pieces I have been collecting today and had a go running a tap up up the pipe. Did one and it turned out ok. Ya can't do it under power eh unless you are friggin coordinated, lol! This was my experience anyway. 1" UNF is big stuff eh?




I have to make a jig up that will hold everything in alignment so i get consistent results with everything. 


There is a pic above of my pig and a motor. I sold it this week. (the motor not my pig) As part of the deal I take possession of a 500ci 

RB bracket engine. Will suit this car wayyy better for my intended use. Things are moving again! Churr.

  • Like 3

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Its been years. See the other pics have been deleted. Dunno where i was up to or what has been lost. I am a shit poster anyway but am back into the black car. So I will just stick stuff up as it happens and call it done. So in no particular order ... 


Basically Shedrat'is a bigblockpoweredstickcarthatdontshine. He's based on the iconic shape of a 40's Willys Coupe. His chassis is a YN57 2WD Hilux item that has been fucked around with. Long story short - the stock frontend has been used, the arse has been chopped off and replaced with a fabricated item. The drivetrain consists of a Chrysler RB engine, a A833 4 Speed and a 9 inch Ford differential. The car is destined for the street but has smatterings' of race bred bit's and pieces due to me wanting to use up items left over from a drag race effort. So you'll see 35 Spline Axles, MSD7 and Roller this and that, but no sign of any chromoly. Brickshithouse construction mentality rules in my shed too. Fuck the added weight. This is a no frills effort that won't shine.



  • Like 6

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bottom bars done.


The top ones are going to be a cunt to position in correct alignment. Everything's on angles. My sins are going to catchup with me, lol. Bring it.

  • Like 7

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Finished the 4 link setup. Finished the main parts anyway. Still have to do a myriad of little stuff in support like spacers and drilling the inspection holes in the bars to satisfy cert requirements etc. It took me near a couple of days getting the last bar plates to mirror the other side. Fuckin did it though. What a pain. Parallel 4 links are way easier to get right. These fuckers though ... I put a level over both the tops and both bottom bars to see how close everything ended up. Used a machinists level. The bottom pair came in dognuts' on. The top ones a little out but fuck all. Lifted one side of the level a mil or less and it was smack on. So swapped the level for a normal one and you could not tell the difference, lol. Good enuff. I am please with how these turned out.


The geometry for this set of bars is pretty on the money also. I used CAD to draw everything out and gave enough holes to give me a couple of IC's below, on and above the neutral line. At (planned) ride height both top and bottom bars sit level to the earth with an IC that meets at infinity. So I should be able to ball park where a short wheelbase BB car likes to sit. 


Next step is to locate then fab the panhard bar. Lateral location is important to me (lol) so much so i have forsaken using freebie Toyota Surf suspension bushing ends and elected to go with something less compromising in the form of CMrod ends. Using 3/4" rod ends in conjunction with some Schedule 160 Line Pipe. Not quite sure on where/how its all going to fit in there. Need to make sure there is room for the gasoline tank in there somewhere also.


Next task after the panhard bar is gasoline tank installation. This can be a place where i can get into trouble too. The bum shape on a Willys goes freaky shallow/low real quick and my tank is tallish. I want it low but not low low so it looks like a drop tank. 


All good shit for BB 4BBL cars that are built for economy and grocery shopping.


  • Like 6

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Located and measured up where I wanted the chassis end of the bar to sit. I ended up with it sitting aligned to the axles. Drew it up and cut it out.


I blow undersized holes through using plasma but finish them to size on the mill.


Want your panhard bar running parallel to the diff and at axle height, but you have big chassis kickup in the arse of your car? Then you end up making big arse brackets like these. They turned out alright but they are imposing. I built in plenty of gusset in order to brace against the direction the force is going to come. Not in the pic - but i intend to run a piece of small diameter pipe to gusset/brace the rear facing face of the bracket to the chassis. Triangulate.


I included a 5mm spacer plate in order to tighten everything up. I used a 50mm x 50mm piece of box as part of the panhard bracket hanging off the chassis. The cross section width of the 3/4" rod end is 45mm.


Turned up spacers to center the shocks.


Direct threaded the panhard bar to take the rod end.


Need to do the diff end next.

  • Like 9

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Made this for the diff end. It turned out alright. It positions the bar parallel and level to the axle center line. There is a fair bit of work hanging these things where you want them to hang. P5121201.JPG.ccc1352d484e4557777b6b46d0e30bc0.JPG



Got a sway bar from of an AU Coon' (I think it was) It looks like it might fit like a bought one. I am going to fit a head and axles into the diff soon. I might revisit this sway bar fit up once the head is in place in order to see if there is room.


Next thing to fit are a couple of chassis K members. These will allow the gearbox cross member to be attached to something once final engine position is determined. I am working towards fitting the body soon. This will allow final engine position to be determined. 


  • Like 3

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The plan after the K members are fitted is to assemble the diff enuff in order to fit wheels to the rear. After this the body is going to be fitted over the chassis in order to measure for the outer sill rails, position fuel tank, rear bumper fit up, and to position the engine. Then the body will come off. The fitting of the body will represent a milestone for me. I pulled out the diff bits and pieces today in readiness for fit up. I like this shit. This is not the head I will be tooling around the street with. If you are into 9"'s then the following will mean something to you. If you aren't then its just blurb. Anyway;

 Strange Pro Nod iron 3.250 Case, Strange 35 Spline Spool, Daytona Pinion Support, Richmond 5.14:1 Ring, 1350 UJ.



Timkin Set20, HD Retainers, Currie Ent.  


There is a reason you run the 3.250 Case or bigger. Check out the size of the pinion support.


This is the head casing I use for aligning diff's to gearbox. It came out of a bro's 9 sec car. It let go after years of being behind a trans brake. It took everything else out with it too. Not fit for use anymore but ok for alignment jigging. Check out the size of the OEM pinion support compared to the race spec one above. Alot of dudes swear by the 9" while others swear at them, lol!


Bought some of those blank rotors from off TM. Drilled them to suit the axles I am using. They are dognuts on the same spec as 90's/00's Commodores. Plan on using these in conjunction with FXGT AE92 rear calipers so I can utilize the handbrake feature..




  • Like 9

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now