Popular Post sr2 Posted July 23 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted July 23 I wanted to use the standard Holden rubber g/box mount and decided the Toyota to Holden adaptor I’d made some 30 years ago was a little too manky. Cut out some plate… Cut out a backing plate… Drilled a few holes to tack through….. Flipped over and welded it all up. Did some shaping and painting…… Old vs new. Splashed some black paint on the box…… And it all fits. 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr2 Posted July 31 Author Report Share Posted July 31 A new Master Cylinder arrived today…. And a clutch master as well… A bit more paint…… All mounted up….. Needed a 1 inch clutch slave and found a Triumph 2000 one at a great price. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sr2 Posted August 7 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted August 7 Brake line bending 101 Hi guys; more semi-incoherent, sanctimonious musings from the Universally Renowned sr2 man-cave University of Beer, Bullshit and Bad Manners. As always feel free to comment, disagree or just sling random insults. https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49843-sr2%E2%80%99s-1947-vauxhall-%E2%80%9Crigamortice%E2%80%9D-discussion-thread/ Just finished a brake & booster upgrade on a friends MBG GT and thought I’d share my brake pipe fabrication technique. For what it’s worth this is how I do it. In the late 70’s and early 80’s copper tube was commonly used and we produced some very pretty hand bent installs. In its defence despite copper being soft and susceptible to work hardening we had no failures due to the material used. These days with higher pressure/less displacement systems copper is frowned upon and after a brief flirtation with steel Bundy tubing (bloody awful stuff) most of the industry has settled on copper nickel tubing. It’s malleable, looks the part and is a joy to work with. Traditionally I’d make a pattern using 2.5 mm welding wire and then attempted to replicate it with my trusty bender. Problem was replicating handmade wire bends with a set radius bender at best produced an average result. After a rare Wild Turkey inspired flash of inspiration (i.e. a rush of shit to the brains) I tried using a piece of scrap pipe of the correct diameter (i.e. 48mm as per my tube bender) to bend the wire pattern. Things got a lot easier but it was still challenging to get the length of tube between the bends consistent with the pattern. I had a little play and discovered that with copper nickel I could ditch the bender and just wrap the tubing around my pipe former and better than that I could even manage a smaller 34 mm radius bend without distorting or collapsing the tube. Next step was to knock up a 34/48 mm bending former out of scrap. I use the bending former to bend the wire pattern… And then line the tube up to make the same bend in the same position. Easy as… Bottom line is if you use the same bending former for both the wire pattern and the brake tube you save yourself a lot of grief. 15 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr2 Posted 21 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 21 hours ago Time to sort out the front sway-bar and shocks. Disassembled the sway-bar and started cleaning and painting. A lot of painted parts hanging out to dry… Had some D bushes arrive from Rare Spares in Oz and some doughnuts arrive from Basis in NZ. The standard HR Holden sway-bar is mounted to the chassis rails with D bushes and dropper rods to the lower suspension A arms. Because Rigamortices chassis rails were closer together and the radiator shroud was in the way I’d mounted the sway-bar to the bottom A arms and dropped the D bushes to be below the chassis. Dug out the new shocks I’d had in storage for a few years…. Just love assembling new and refurbished parts, always feels like Xmas…. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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