Popular Post sheepers Posted April 13, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 13, 2015 alright so ive been asked "how do you stretch a guard?". the answer is its not easy and i want to make this very clear, i have only done this twice. i am not an expert by a very long way. i was told how to do this by my mate Peter the panel beater and that's the grand total of my experience. peter was very clear in his instruction and he told me that if it starts going wrong DO NOT try and fix it. he would come and sort it out for me. i have fluked it so far and have not needed his help to fix anything. so, with that said here is a run down of what i do as best as i can communicate in text. please ask questions and ill try as best as i can to explain. ill take some pictures tonight that will help. 1. Mark out where you want to put the new fold where the guard lip will start from (the new arch line) do this on both sides before you do anything else. 2. Drill the spots and separate the inner and outer skin. 3. Fold the outer lip down. 4. My “spoon” is a broken trailer leaf spring. It’s perfect for this job because it has a skinny end with a bend in it that allows you to get right up inside the panel and onto the back of the flat parts of the quarter when you need to pull the panel out a bit. And the other end is thicker and had a curve to it so it makes putting a convex shape into the arch easier. 5. Using a spoon (whatever that turns out to be) very gently work around the lip putting a crease in the panel for the new arch line, pull the spoon towards you and hit into the car. I use the pick end of my hammer to make a nice tight crease line. The skinny end of my spoon is great for this bit. 6. Once you have a crease hit the spoon from the back to stretch the lip, once again work slowly back and forth, don’t try to move it a great deal with each blow, take your time and it will come. At first I use the skinny end because there isn’t enough gap between the outer guard and the inner guard to get the thick end of the spoon between the panels. At this stage I’m hitting the back of the spoon with the largest hammer I have. You can hit the spoon fairly hard and you should be able to judge how hard to hit it. If it looks like you’re moving it with each blow you’re hitting it too hard. If you can’t really see anything happening with each blow but it’s moving slowly then you’re about right. 7. Go back and forth between checking/maintaining the crease and stretching the lip out. Once in a while use the spoon and the light panel hammer to get any obvious dents or bulges out of the arch and to work the stretched material into the shape you want the arch to be. 8. As you go you’ll find that the top of the crease line will move in towards the centre line of the car. Get the spoon up behind the flat part of the panel and gently bring it out. 9. DISCLAIMER!!!! As I said I was told how to do this buy my mate Peter the panel beater and he said very specifically “if the quarter panel around the arch starts to buckle STOP and I’ll come and fix it”. I’ve been lucky enough in the two times I’ve done this that that haven’t happened to me, I have no idea how to fix it if it does, but if Peter said that the only way to fix it was for him to do it then it must be very tricky indeed. 10. Try to get some shape in the lip (either concave or convex, don’t matter it just gives the lip strength when it’s finished). Once again, my spoon has a great shape to the end of it to help with doing this. 11. The bottom corners are tricky because you have to transition from where the panel was originally to the stretched part through the top. It gets more difficult when it comes time to reattach the inner and outer skins. You’ll just have to suck it and see because it kind of “happens” as you go. 12. When the outer is where you want it start on the inner. 13. Fold the inner lip down. 14. Beat the inner with a ball peen hammer to stretch the inner skin (don’t hit it hard enough to dent the outer) don’t worry too much about the shape, all you’re doing is stretching the steel so you have material to work with. 15. Use the spoon and hammer to move the inner out. Make you crease line around the top in the same place as the outer and work the inner the same as the outer, slowly. I find that if you hold the spoon on the outside of the inner skin pulling it towards the centre of the car and hit the steel right next to the spoon outwards it stretches nicely. You can work your way forwards and back doing this. 16. You might need to give the inner a few goes with the ball peen to stretch the material enough. 17. When the skins are touching again and your happy with the shape (check the flat panel above the guard and the fore and aft parts of the panel for flatness/correctness - usually it goes in and you’ll need to get in there with the spoon and tap it back out) it’s time to weld it back together. 18. Because the two skins are now different lengths you will need to scribe the fold line onto the inner and cut the inner back so the outer folds around it. This is going to be very difficult to explain in text so I think I’ll try and draw what I mean. Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr 19. Use heaps of clamps right around the lip to clamp the two skins together in place. Check the surrounding quarter panel for correct shape. There is no going back once you start welding. 20. Tack the centre first and work outwards front and back from the middle welding the edge of the inner to the outer where the fold will eventually be. Use the smallest tacks you can because these will eventually be “inside” the lip and if they are big it will make the bottom of the lip all lumpy. 21. Then fold the outer back under. Fold it with pliers until you can hold the dolly on the outside and hit the lip up from the inside. Don’t hit the lip inwards at any point, it will distort the lip and the panel above. 22. When it’s up tight against the inner clamp it and weld it in place. Start in the middle and tack it moving outwards. Hey presto! Finished!! Easy. 19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted April 14, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 14, 2015 heres a picture of the spoon i use and the hammer i use to hit it with. Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr this is how i use the end to get up behind the surrounding panel. obviously its on the inside of the panel... Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr and this is the heavy end that i use once there is enough gap to get this between the two skins. ts got a nice curve to it so i can add a bit of concave shape to the arch. Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr this is the thin end and how i would be sitting it to do the crease at the top. Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted April 17, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 17, 2015 i dun this. Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 after posting that i went and did a bit more so the bottom corners at the front and back of the arch are finished as well now and I've given the bare steel a coat of super etch. tomorrow ill get some more done. don't know what ill attack next but i would like to think that the bulk of the rust is done. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 doors. drivers door has been mungreled (surprise surprise) so i bought another door of Mike in the hope of it being better that the one on the car. the more i dug the more obvious it became that the new door wasn't much better than the one on the car. so I'm going to get them all acid dipped along with the front guards and the boot lid. then ill decide which door to use and what to do next. I've just sold my scooter so I'm cashed up and I'm thinking that i might pay Peter the panel beater to fix the doors because ill probably fuck them up. dunno, ill talk to peter and see if he's keen to do them. Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on FlickrUntitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 this is what the drives door looks like. form the inside i can't actually see the rust holes they were trying to cover up, there is probably a small hole in each corner and thats it. the shape of the patch is completely wrong and the door sticks out a good 10mm past the two panels its supposed to line up with. Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted May 17, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 17, 2015 i haven't been doing nothing, quite the opposite in fact because i have been doing something. dipped and stripped the doors, boot lid and front guards. Untitled by David Arthur, on Flickr this revealed that the front guards are pretty beat up, the boot lid is fucked and the doors weren't as bad as i thought. so Peter is going to do the doors for me and today i realised i have two guards in the roof which are way better so ill use them instead. Untitled by David Arthur, on Flickr Untitled by David Arthur, on Flickr Untitled by David Arthur, on Flickr as for the boot lid Richie told that restored.jp make boot lids and so ill probably get one from Japan because at 300 odd dollars there is just no point in trying to fix this one. also, i got some 225 50 15s for the back. Untitled by David Arthur, on Flickr so things are definitely happening. Peter has a job on at the mo which will take him about 3 weeks then he'll fix the doors. after that he's going to fix the roof for me and take out the sunroof. in the mean time ill get the front guards ready for paint and order a boot lid from Japan. then its time to take the screens out and see what horrors await in the glass rebates……. 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted June 9, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 9, 2015 now that ive finished working on the brown glitter turd i can get back into this car. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr front guards all ready for epoxy primer. no dents and no rust. bonus. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr also the total good cunt Edz (MrMcdoll) gave me another drivers door which is mint. its got a small dent in it and a bit of surface rust on the bottom and that's it! i got the rust off it last night and began removing the dent so its almost ready for primer too! (put a picture of the door here you idiot) stoked because that will take a bit of time and cost out of what Peter has to do. in other news i got all the glass guides and door hardware re-passivated while its apart. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr progress! 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 door. can you guess where the dent is that i need an adult to fix for me. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 i took the screens out today. i was worried id find the same level of repair work around the screen channels as ive found elsewhere (the screens were held in with silicone and hope so i knew some cowboy had been in there previously) but to my surprise there is no rust and the original clip pins for the trim are all still there and in fantastic shape so im super happy about that! the door above has been repaired and Peter will soon start on the pasingers side door. in other news, when i told Peter that i was going to buy a fiberglass boot lid for the car because the ones i have are to far gone to repair he had a fit and told me in no uncertain terms that i was not putting glass panels on it as long as he lived so hes fixing a boot lid for me as well. result. i probably would have gotten more done on this if i hadn't been playing with superchargers...... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 gave the inside and outside of the wheel arches a good coat of primer. i kept pouring it in until it ran out the bottom of both corners. there plenty of paint in there now. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr gave the rear window surround a wire brush to see what i could find and unsurprisingly there are a couple of shit repairs which ill cut out and make new. havent checked the front scuttle panel yet but the front screen channel is rust free which i s great news. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted June 30, 2015 Author Share Posted June 30, 2015 tonights story in pictures. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted July 4, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 4, 2015 peter has finished fixing the dent in the drivers door and he gave that back to me this morning. he's taken the boot lid to repair and i should have that back next weekend, then its just the passengers door left to do. oh and the sunroof. anywho, with the front guards and a door ready for priming today was paint day. i went and bought some protec epoxy primer (epotec to be precise) and gave that a go today. it is a bit different to what I'm used to and i was trying to get it to look wet like i would have to do with durepox but that turned out to be to heavy so there are a few runs but at this stage it don't matter. I'm really only sealing them so i can start getting the shape perfect so there will be more primer to come yet. i might wet lay the colour onto the inside of the doors and the guards before i put them back on the car. this means i have to decide on a colour for it. i have decided to take the motor out and paint the engine bay because I'm a fussy cunt who seems to have endless time to fuck around rather that getting shit done. SO, this means i can paint it any colour i want. problem. I'm terrible at deciding colours and i agonise over it for months then choose the first colour i thought of. with this in mind i probably will paint it red but ill have a think about it over the next weeks or so. panted parts, inside and out. (colour of the primer is very green, looks way different to how these photos show it for some reason) Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 today went well. i blocked back the drivers door and its really close to the right shape. i was able to get the shape pretty much ready for a final coat of primer with just a bit of green spot putty. ill put another layer of primer on it probably tomorrow night. no bog, excellent. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted July 11, 2015 Author Share Posted July 11, 2015 front guards are 99% right. second coat of primer on. man did i fuck that up. never sprayed this paint before, well, not vertically and it behaves completely differently to what I'm used to. cut a long story short i thought it was to dry so i put more paint on. it wasn't to dry. not to worry, there is at least one more coat of primer to go yet. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr but in bigger and better news peter finished the boot lid and its fucking magic. i trial fitted it and it lines up with everything mint. its really close to finished shape and i reckon a light skim of bog along the bottom edge and it'll be spot on. i havent painted the top yet. ill do that tomorrow along with what i hope is the final coat of primer on the drivers door and ill also paint the hinges tomorrow too. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted July 12, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 12, 2015 more parts got primered. boot lid top has a coat of primer on it to seal it before i do any bog/shape work. hinges and drivers door. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 primed the front guards for what i hope is the last time. shape is really good. will see better when they are on the car and aligned with the other panels but at this stage they look good. before priming, Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr after priming. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr next is boot lid and then passengers door. boot lid is almost ready for its second coat of primer. maybe this weekend. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 boot lid is nearly nearly ready for another coat of primer . just needs a tiny bit more fucking around with the return along the bottom lip and should be good to go. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted July 19, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 19, 2015 Peter finish the passengers door for me. he made a whole new top for it, a new inner bottom and a new bottom outer skin. looks mint. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr so i gave it a scuff up and primed it. i also finished the boot lid and gave that a second coat of primer too. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted July 29, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 29, 2015 both of the above parts have been moved to the next stage. the drivers door has now got some bog in it to make the shape right and its got another coat of primer on it. the boot lid has been long boarded with 250 and the shape is tip top so its got its final coat of primer on it. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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