h4nd's 1974 Daihatsu Fellow Max 360

[h4nd]

Left the interior lamp on. Oops.

Worth a crack. Yeah. Nah.

[h4nd]

Oops

 

Oh there's why. Who the bloody hell mounts the terminal in the flappy area of the alternator belt !!1!1

... oh, me.

[h4nd]

Anyway, routine maintenance:

 

[h4nd]

Oh - it was starting to run shit because of ... plugs!

Who'd a thunk?

I should really put the good motor back in.

[h4nd]

Oops: this was getting substantially loud

British tech to the rescue (temporarily)

Whilst Hamish at Hammer and weld did this to the other one:

 

[h4nd]

That was all before x-mas mind. I got the repaired expansion chamber / muffler back, then split the motor from the gearbox about a month and a half ago, but the bus run to new work is so quick, I got lazy...

While the motor and box have parted company, I thought I really ought to investigate the grindy clutch noise:

It feels fiiiiine, so I guess I'll go find a 2nd opinion? (i.e. procrastinate putting it back together again)

[h4nd]

[h4nd]

@ajg193 was kind enough to chat mech, and pointed out that the gearbox doesn't spin when the clutch is depressed, so the rumble is probably the motor output. Of the shit motor I want to change out.

I should'a just gone with my first instinct and slapped it together and sent it.

[h4nd]

Mods are asleep! Shitpost in your build thread!

I realised that part of what I like about working on the car, is wombling around in the shed listening to Concert FM (YMMV).

This went west when I vacated my work office, but now I have have those dulcet tones back.

Let's see if it helps

[h4nd]

So I had a pretty good set of gaskets, courtesy of @kyteler, which fitted nicely except for the carb one:

Sooo, down to Repco! 

/s

Generic gasket: some assembly required

Then bung the motor in the hole, line up the stick thingy with the hole thingy

I have some new tricks to make this a one-man job: 

drop the engine mount off the motor rear-left; also remove the fuel filter and bracket from that corner,

Suspend the motor with a ratchet strap, TWO pinch bars:

Once you get the first bolt from motor to box in, ye can squeeze the rest together with any old G-clamp.

1/4 inch socket set doing the good work to get the bolts back in that left-rear engine mount.

Now it just needs fuel, oil, spark and starter hooked up for the traditional piss the neighbours off  test.

It'll be a few more days to get it roadable (Alt, cooling etc), but mostly this (these):

Yar, those won't buff out.

Well, off to see Hamish at Hammer-n-Weld, he's a nice chap anyways.

[h4nd]

... and he did it the next day, Nice!

so today, onward:

 

17 minutes ago, h4nd said:

Maaan, car electronics are so complicated.

The wires carrying the sparks have to connect all the time.

Except if you nudge the metal case of the regulator relay - that's the wrong kind of sparks

Once you get the sparks jumping up the wire, the car is still fussy, you have to get each of them to their own cylinders, at the right time and everything.

Anyhow, that means it cranked for a while without catching and running. and that's perhaps given me an important warning clue:

Yeah, there's only oily goo coming out one side. These engines pump 2T oil to the main bearings, which then lose it to the crankcase, so it looks like #1 may not be getting the good oil