mad_max Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Im having some problems with my ca18det, sometimes it will stall easily coming up to an intersection if I don't have my foot on the gas, then it will not start. And sometimes if I start it and think its started so let go of key and if it doesn't start intl kinda misfire and stall and not start. I heard a while ago of someone taking the fuel pump fuse out, starting it up and putting it back in again. This works so Ive hooked it up to a switch so is much easier to do. Although its problem solved its not ideal and want to know why it's doing it. Talked to a few mechanics and they couldn't tell me and n ever heard of taking the fuse out to start. Any information would be mint Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QCADTA Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 have you tried to pull a fault code out of the ecu? sounds like a fuel pressure issue maybe. whats the solenoid up to that your fpr goes to, think itd a cold start by pass and is mounted by the ignitor. but will look it up and get back to ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 sounds like you need a new pump , not sure why removing and reinstalling the fues helps at all, the amount of volt drop on a fuse is not huge and for it make a huge difference your fuse holder/terminals would have to be in very bad condition. i know that in friends 180 sx he had a lot of trouble with it cutting out and running like a bag of crap that it eventually turned out to be a faulty pump that wasn’t supplying full pressure, was approx. 30 per cent down on max pressure and occasionally it would stop working all together, this is a common Nissan fault we have since found out. Now it runs great. Although this worked on his car I would still recommend carrying out a volt drop test on you wiring and across your pump. If possible fit a in line fuel pressure gauge so you can check to find out if it is indeed your fuel system at fault, sometimes a dicky air flow sensor can create the illusion of fuel related fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 ^agree with above . these not much that can go wrong with the ca18det aprts from coilpacks (fucking coilpacks) so i would try another fuel pump if you can and if that doesnt fix it i would pull apart the idle air valve thingy and makesure its allclean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 test it electrically first it’s the best type of pointer, check for voltage supplied at the pump , make sure it’s close to battery voltage, if its low like 8volt you have a positive side wiring type fault, that will cause a lot of problems, if it is good like 12.volts then move to the next test. . . Next check that the voltage the pump is using, this is called a volt drop test. This is a very good test as it will tell you if the pump is using all the voltage or if the earth system using some too. if the earth is using voltage then the volt drop across the pump will be less than the supply voltage from above test i.e. : volt drop across pump is 7volts this means earth fault. If volt drop across pump is 11.9 volts, means good earth and pump is using all power supplied = good move onto next test test the fuel pump by taking of the fuel supply line to the motor, run the pump for 10min collect the fuel and measure its amount in litters, times this by 6 you now have a flow rate by hour i.e. 200 litters per hour is a good pump. If the pump is crap or the fuel filter is blocked then your flow rate will be very low. By doing this test it would be very helpful to know what pump you are using, as some have different flow rates. This is a very good way to test your fuel pump and basically covers mostly all the faults that you would expect to see in a fuel system, i.e. pump fault or wiring fault on a side note spray some brake clean around the inlet manifold and hoses (be very careful about temp ,do it on a cold engine as it is flammable , stay away from exhaust) if the engine starts to run rough you have just found an air leek, this will cause a lot of issues that also look like fuel pump related fault, stalling and running rough . To be fair there is a few things to check that can be the cause of your described fault, can do similar electrical tests to help you diagnose further. Let me know how your electrical test go. Hope this info has helped you Use youtube as a resource as to how to test volt drop if you are not sure how to do it. This is the best tool a auto sparkle has. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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