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1ggeu/1ggte swap...


craig_b

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ripping 1ggeu out and will be fitting a 1ggte, just woundering what needs to be changed with loom and computer etc? intake pipes and exhaust pipes will be sorted easily enough, will have 1ggte loom and computer with motor aswell, didnt get a 1jz or 2jz due to funds, is only a standard 1ggte aswell. any info would be wicked,

peace.

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Wiring should be pretty basic. Although the newer style engines like the 1ggte use a ECU switched relay labled "MREL", this relay is required to run the B+ circuit to the comp, It times out and allows the Idle speed valve to reset back to its Original position. Other than that, Theres not alot of wiring required, prolly just run ya fuel pump of a IG ON relay, along with the Ignition circuit (coils and Ignitor)

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right so 1ggeu is out, 1ggte is in, 3 plugs came out of the 1ggeu ecu - 2 that go out the firewall and onto the engine and 1 that runs up the dash somewhere, now the 1ggte has 5 or 6 plugs that come off the engine and 3 that plug into the ecu,

1st question is how do i find out what series engine this is? there is a sticker that says "S2" by the 1ggte sticker, dose this mean series 2? as ive found wiring diagrams for a series 2 and series 3 1ggte's

2nd question, the 3rd plug from the 1ggeu ecu that runs along the dash, what is this sucker for?

will end up putting the fuel lines,coil,alternator,fan etc on tomorrow then wait till i new turbos arrive before i can try start up, will take some pics when im back at work tomorrow so you know what im on about, any help would be miiiint

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right, so have figured out that i have a series 3 engine, now can anyone help me with what i need to do to give the ecu some life? i took some pictures of the plug that was used with the 1ggeu that didnt come out with the engine loom and run across into the dash loom, it did plug into the ecu, so i am guessing it had something to do with afm and coil as the plugs for these come out of the off the body of the car and not with the loom on the engine. theres also another plug that is now left unpluged, i checked what these 2 plugs have power with key off, key acc and key on positions and recorded them but turns out i cant load pics from my phone onto this laptop as it has no cd drive fuck it. dose anyone know the plugs i am talking about or know what pins i need to supply power to on the 1ggte computer loom? will endevour to get pics up tonight even if i have to take the loser cruiser back to work and take a digi camera, also have pics of the 3 un-used plugs that are from the 1ggte loom and have some throught the firewall with the ecu plugs

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First off take the lids off your ECU's (carefully!) and see if you have markings on the pinouts, some ECU's do and it makes life super easy. Post me some pics of the plug setup on the ECU's and I'll see what I can find for you wiring wise, this should be so easy, but its hard to give advise without checking it out in person

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So anyway the easy stuff is obvious, take the 2 B+ pins the IG pin and the BATT pin from the plug on the in car wiring and splice them into the 1GGTE plug, that is all your main power feeds done

The only thricky thing here (well sorta) is the M-REL pin this triggers a relay that is controlled by the ECU, this usually powers the idle air stepper motor so the ECU can reset it back to a base position once the key is off (as said above). It may also feed the ignitor and injectors! so you want to wire this pin up to the 1GGTE plug, but you are going to also have to do some detective work and sort out where the old power feeds for the ISCV and injectors and shit were on the 1G loom, should be pretty obvious. Anyway make sure the injector/ignitor/ISCV power feeds are all from the same places as the original 1GGE loom (you may want to strip the lloms down to get a better understanding of whats going on) if you do this correctly you wont have to dodgy up any exrtra power feeds etc

Also wire up the STA pin to the STA pin, also what that guy has labeled as the HS/V (not correct) pin on the 1GGTE pinout needs ignition power also. Thats a start anyway

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Yea thats sweet so basically as a start do what I have said above, thats the basics to get it running sorted. NSW needs to be wired up to +12v on the ignition switch (use the same factory IG switch as above its on a 7.5A fused feed) its the neutral start switch

If you get all the above sorted it shoudl go, then we can go through all the little things to get rid of any error codes and make sure it idles up etc. After that its get all the dash stuff working again

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