sheepers Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 the resurrection of the chassis has begun. this is the cross tube the the upper control arm mounts to. its plated over the joint. the shape allows for more surface area of weld and also to spread the stress of the joint rather than having a stress concentration at the edge of a square plate. sheepers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 more of the chassis is back together. this is the rear bit that the boot floor bolts to. i didn't narrow this bit because i didn't want to move the body mounts or the rear bumper mounting. it was easier to cut it off and then weld it back on with an offset at the joint. it turned out to be way less of an offset than i thought. the shape of the chassis at this point lends itself to being wider and looking factory. like this, more will occur tomorrow night. sheepers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 24, 2012 Author Share Posted November 24, 2012 chassis is all back together and finished. body mount holes moved and all the joints plated. 15mm dosen't sound like much but it looks like miles! tis the gap now between the rail and the wheel, previously this gap was 0. now for the mounting of the air bags. the plan is to attack it tomorrow and hopefully make a decent dent in the rear bag mounts. with any luck ill be posting some pics of the rear bags mounted in the chassis this time tomorrow. sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted December 4, 2012 Author Share Posted December 4, 2012 now the chassis goes up and down. it took a while to get the bags set up at an angle that allowed them to move properly as the diff goes through its weird motion but im happy with how they actuate now. they still function as the bump stop and have enough clearance as they move. now ill do the panhard rod mounts (moving them to accommodate the new lowness), mount the rear swaybar and find some shocks that fit. this is how the mount looks in the chassis, the other side is almost finished but i ran out of gas. sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 i was fucking around with the idea of a watts link for the rear but i did some guesstimates with panhard rod setup and came to the conclusion that it would be a lot of work for very little. so I've changed the panhard setup to add length and get the rod level at ride height. all this adds up to a total side shift of 4mm which is not an issue for this car. im happy with that so thats how it will be. its all just tacked in place but everything works and clears everything else. oh, and i mounted the sway bar also. so the rear is finished save some gusseting and more welding on the diff. now to give the chassis a coat of paint and then im going to make an exhaust for it. this is at full drop, the photo makes the panhard angle look more than it is. at ride height. although it doesn't look like it the bar is level to the car at this height. also, this is the lowest part of the car at full drop. the gearbox mount is about 3mm off the ground. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 today i started making the zorst for it. ive run out of bends so i cant do any more but im happy with it so far. ill try and get some more bits tomorrow but i dont like my chances. anywho, it looks like this, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted December 27, 2012 Author Share Posted December 27, 2012 i really did not expect the exhaust parts distributors to be open but they were. so i did some more. the next thing to do is turn the front 3 pipes down and merge them into the collector. ill put the collector for the back three next to the steering box. from there the two pipes will run next to each other under the drivers feet then into one pipe. ill probably get to do a bit more tomorrow. sheepers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted December 29, 2012 Author Share Posted December 29, 2012 finished. i have to do some work on the house so there wont be much happening in the next week or so. fuck it all. sheepers. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 after what seems like a hundred years of torture i have finally got the underside of the body cleaned of old underseal, de-rusted, prepped and primed. tomorrow ill underseal it and then i can put the chassis back. exciting times. sheepers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 after heaps of fucking around with the undersealing its finally done. i ran out of underseal twice because i stupidly didn't get enough the first two times. anywho its done. ill do the wheel wells when i finish the guards and the rust in the corners. while i was stuffing about i made some brake lines and a fuel line. i wanted to run the brake line across the car so it comes up under the master cylinder without crossing the firewall. if i did it again i would be smart enough to move the whole line onto the other side of the diff so it just runs down the drivers side straight to the master. i need to run an adjustable brake bias valve so i can fine tune the brakes and i didn't want to put it in the engine bay so i put in in the chassis rail, ill make a cover for it so it doesn't get bashed around, but never mind that. what that means is that i can remove the line that goes across the crossmember if i need to take it out for any reason. its got a fitting at both ends so it can come out if i need it to. thursday should have the body back on the chassis. sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted January 17, 2013 Author Share Posted January 17, 2013 reunited and it feels so good. sheepers 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted January 17, 2013 Author Share Posted January 17, 2013 i should also mention that the car cant go any lower. the gearbox crossmember is sitting on the ground. ill put countersink cap screws in the gearbox mount and it will go another 4mm or so but it is literary sitting on the ground. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 exhaust is finished. i got it sitting really high so i think i should be good for clearance. the lowest part is still the gearbox crossmember by about 20mm so the zorst should be fine. I've replaced the gearbox bolts with countersinks so the heads don't get smashed off. also, im running one hotdog and no muffler. it was like this before and was pretty quiet so I'm hoping it will still be quiet-ish with only the hotdog. time will tell. this is supposed to show how high the exhaust is but it doesn't really show anything? sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted January 28, 2013 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 28, 2013 got a bit more done. ive run the front air lines. the air line is inside the copper tube. just to be super safety sure its not going to get cut by something. the other thing I've done is mount the compressor. i made a plate to mount it on and i made a shield to stop anything coming off the tyre and getting on the compressor. the other day someone asked me how the hell i manage to get so much done, which is funny because i dont think i progress very quickly at all. anywho there are two things that allow me to spend so much time in the shed, one is that we dont have any kids and the other more important thing is that i have the most understanding wife on the planet. she's happy as larry for me to spend countless hours in the shed and there is no way i could get this much done without her blessing. sheepers. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 oh hi. once again things have been happening. this time not good things. about a week ago i cut my finger which resulted a severed nerve, two stitches in the tendon, and six stitches in my finger. this has caused me no end of strife because its now taking me ages to do anything. and its very sore if i knock it on anything. im still working on the car but its slow going. here is a video of a car going up and down. whats happening there then? the car has 3 height settings, it starts at "full low", goes to "high" then to "ride hight", then "full low" then back to "ride hight". i havent set any of the resolution or sensitivity settings so it takes a while to find the correct spot for each level. ill fix this with some stuffing with the settings. basically, when the compressor stops after each move its at the correct height, im changing the heights with the remote. so it works. i need to tidy up some of the wires and such but its 99% finished. happy days. (except for my finger) sheepers. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 so now the car moves up and down by itself i thought id try to make it move forwards and backwards too. wires are being installed and so are the things that need wires connected to them. like the electric power steering pump. this is the bracket for the pump. it goes inside the front of the guard and wont be seen. what else is needed for driving him? wires, throttle linkage (everything from the pedal to the carbs), brake lines from the master down to the chassis, clutch line, power steering lines and cooler, radiator. probably other things too. sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sheepers Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 right then, so long time no update. nick the sparky has almost finished doing a full re-wire of the car and my goal of not being able to see a single wire in the engine bay is looking obtainable. the coil is mounted on the side of the block and all the engine wires come through the firewall down beside the starter motor. the alternator wires loop under the sump and up under the alt. ive made a cover for the back of the alternator so you cant see the plug or the wires. we should be able to fire up the motor this week depending on a few things. ive finished the throttle pedal too. it now pulls a cable that runs inside under the dash and comes out with the engine wires down beside the starter, then it loops up under the throttle linkage. the carb linkage isint all pretty yet but it works. in other news the mods to the inner guards are finished as well. ive cut them to allow more clearance for the wheel at full drop then added a more "tubbed" style flange that goes out to the outer guard. all the holes have been welded up and ive added mounts for the power steering cooler on the drivers side and a mount for the horns on the passengers side. ive also added mounting points for the power steering hoses which run on the inside of the inner guard out of site. i also had to raise the cutout for the upper A arm because at full drop the top arm was hitting the lip. tomorrow im taking these, the radiator suppoprt panel and the guards to the painters to get all green. that WILL be exciting. and these are my horns all nice and shiny. in "other things that have been done" style news ive flared the front guards a bit. ive trimmed the lip and folded ti up flat then bought the guard flare out about 7mm. it doesn't sound like much but its made a huge difference to the amount of clearance the tyre has at full drop. also all the parts of the power steering circuit are finished so there are hoses and a header tank and a cooler all connected. a new radiator is being made too. sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sheepers Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 the only wires that were still visible in the engine bay were the plug leads. i had a few different ideas about how i wanted to run them but for one reason or another those various ideas wouldn't work. then i though about those old style tubes that run the lead inside like on luxury cars from around the 30's. i spoke to my friendly local sparky about the pros and cons of doing this and we decided it would work. so, here is what ive made. the leads run through the tube and out a slot that runs along the bottom. ive also made a cover for the top of the dizzy so you cant see the leads or the dizzy at that end either. the leads arn't in yet but they do fit down the tube (just). both the tube and the cover will get powder coated black. sheepers. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sheepers Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 i dont like windscreen wiper motors. i dont like them at all so i hid it out of view so it can suffer alone. sheepers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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