Chrome_GT Posted February 27, 2007 Author Share Posted February 27, 2007 Thanks - looking forward to getting it now !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 hat mount is actually the output shaft flange. be careful with which linkage setuo for gears it's got too..... yoursis lkely rod change. that box isn;t mount is on thefront of the gearbox, that you need to remove. blah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 yuh, i fully just geussed, that thing looked to be about where there is a stabiliser bar on mine, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_GT Posted March 1, 2007 Author Share Posted March 1, 2007 Just picked up the car and engine. In a way I'm kind of gutted I'm taking the engine from such a minter. It came with lots of goodies: 1300 engine complete 2 spare carburettors Heaps of taillight spares Headlights 3 spare radiators Lots of interior bits like winders, handles, switches. about 7 spare wheels with good tread And a brand new set of driveshaft coupling crosses!! - Just what i needed for the mini. Car is very original and unmolested. No rust, couple small dents from car doos etc, some paint chips. If the mini install goes good i might just chuck the 1000cc into the austin so that it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted March 1, 2007 Share Posted March 1, 2007 fuck i'd sel tha and make pinga. sacrilige to tear such a mint example to bits!!! those things are getting thin on the ground Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_GT Posted March 1, 2007 Author Share Posted March 1, 2007 Problem is I could get it going, then I'd have to revin and reregister it. And in the end all i'd get is $700 anyway. They may be getting rarer but they aren't worth anything. An I'd have to spend another 6 months watching out for a decent 1300. It is a shame though. My collection is starting to look better! 2 Capris, 2 BLMCs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted March 1, 2007 Share Posted March 1, 2007 oh, pwnt by dereg. yuh unless it's showoom cond then i woulnt bother wit that eh. hah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_GT Posted March 9, 2007 Author Share Posted March 9, 2007 Ok , here's another question. I'm just checking out all the easy things before commiting to the engine swap. 1) Clutch has plenty of meat 2) Head looks good, valves and seats tidy, I won't be porting at all - too time consuming and apparently the 12g940 is pretty good anyway. Still to decide if i fit the head before the install or just do that afterwards once it is in. Distributor, well not much to check there, and if it doesn't work i have a spareon my 1000 anyway, heaps of spare rots, caps, condensors so not an issue 3) Waterpump, my 1000 has a new one so i'll switch that over, 4) Thermostat, will switch aswell as new thermostat and housing on the 1000 5) Cyl bores look ok as do pistons, haven't measured. Dunno bout rings, will find out later. So anything I've missed.? I don't want to pull it apart otherwise i'll just end up spending way to much time finding and repairing problems that really don't matter. How does the gearchange work? I have access to the remote change ball under the transmission, it doesn't move. Shouldn't i be able to pull and push the ball around etc? I will go under the austin tomorrow to look at the remote system which is still in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 it's pretty much impossible to change the gear just by hand unless you've got the remote bit attached there are different variations of the remote design, looks like you've got the earlier type. you will probably find you need to change the temp sensor in the head to the one from the 1000 you may need to change the top support bracket on the radiator, dunno what the fucks up with those but there are different variations of them, see what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_GT Posted March 9, 2007 Author Share Posted March 9, 2007 Temp sensor, sweet as. I also had someone tell me the radiator itself has a thicker core. haven't checked yet but I have heaps of spares that came with the car so i'll sort that out. Alright, Looks like Sunday might be the Day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 all this talk about spares, dont have a spare crank do ya? 1300 one most problems are pretty easy to iron out if your keen enough, only troubles ive had is getting it tuned properly, thats partly cos ive had fuck all experince in tuning. and partly cos those twin carbs are a right prick if you start fiddling with them. if you need more help just ask bro. i can remember 99% of how i fixed any issue i came across Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 radiator is physically bigger. will bolt in but will foul subframe and crack bottom tank, forming a leak. can mod mounts o suit though if required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_GT Posted March 9, 2007 Author Share Posted March 9, 2007 Sorry miniman saw your WTB:crank post. None of those. Just this engine. Cam; In that case I'll just continue using my existing radiator in the short term. If it overheats then i'll work on fitting the larger one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 best way. just get it checked for flow etc. shouldn't have too much problem. try soucing an early mk1 fan too, to help things. thsoe 17 blade, or whatever they are, fans are shit. suck more power than 4 blader, and push less air. long as youdon't mind the whine of a fan.... 4 blade ones are a wee bit noisier. worth it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 I thought the 16 blade fans were l33t bei? If you need to know anything like that I'll look it up in my Vizard book, goes through shit like fans etc too.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 Clive trickey says: boe, they're shit. get a four blader. 16 blade is fine though. jsut extra cooling, a 4 blade would help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 Hmm, interesting actually. I'm not sure what mine is.. 12 maybe? - plastic too Meh, its never going to fucking go anyway.. stupid peice of shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 4 blade = steel one, palstic ones are so shit, actually that reminds me, might get g-man to hook me up with a steel one, he's bound to have one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 nah he's only gt steel mult blade ones, if any. have tried that a few year ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_GT Posted March 10, 2007 Author Share Posted March 10, 2007 Just checked what i have, plastic 16bladers. They'll do for now. Forgot to mention, I found out it has 1mm (0.040") oversize pistons. Sweeeet which gives 1312cc according to Vizards book. This vizard book I've been lent is great. 487 pages of everything to do with tuning an A series. Sometimes finding the answer ya want is difficult though cos it's so damn thick. It mentions the Fans and rates plastic items as pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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