e30-323ti

Yes, get the correct type of locating rings. There are types that locate on the OD of the spring, rather than the ID. Like these from Proflex:

No the HPA Tuner Live Web cast today they were saying the new Link G4+ Atom is $999. Not sure what that means for the distributors trying to move the old Atoms at ~$1500 on tardme at the moment, may see a few going cheap?. Also the microtech LT-9c is ~$800au, if you have someone willing to tune it...

Waiting for my new Tap & Die set to arrive to finish off the column mounts. So thought I should get started on the pedal box (Tilton 600 floor mounted). Thinking something like this: Allows for +/- 50mm adjustment of the pedals (@25mm increments). Will also have to think about tie-ing in a floor plate (adjustable also!?!) off the back to get your feet sitting at the pedals nicely.

Chur Bro. Yeah, figured I'd borrow yours once you'd started that SUMP.

Looks like I got it right. Just need to pick up some taps to thread the holes in the steel bits and get some nice cap screws. And weld them on of course. I was admiring a nice little DC TiG this AM which brought a whole lot of ideas to mind....

See, I told you to get started on that sump. Then your discussion thread wouldn't be plastered with homosexual inuendo and haircuts..... Build something like this beauty from MRP should keep the harasment at bay:

*sighs out loud* Sold our EVO to buy our house, still a bit of a tender memory. Yeah, I'm a bit annoyed I sold the LM's and didn't rear mount the face/barrell, but is saying that, got top $$ as they were mint and near new tyres for the family wagon out of it. Good spotting, those turbines were some rare rear 9" versions, I got the pair of trademe many moons ago, with the original spec 255/40's for $15. One needed a refurb (excessive curbage), so still a win really. Shame nothing else has been a 'deal / steal' *LOL*

Last minute change of plan: Thought it would be good to future proof things, and go for a 2pc design, so a change of column can be easily done. Little blue bits will be steel, to weld to the dash bar, and the red, out of Alloy, for weight savings (bahahahaha) Just sent the files off to Brendon @ Accrete Design, had great turn-around and $$ with them, plus I ride past them daily.

Good things take time I keep telling myself (I'd better not F*#k it up, or I'll be pretty disapointed). Dug up some old pics and added to the first post. Like the style of your E21!! What ever happened to your E28?

Yeah, always pays to give MSNZ a call to check what you are wanting to do. Things like adding Folded Gusset Plates was a no-no without amending the homologation *bugger*

That is a V.good Q' and one I made sure I discussed with MSNZ, and was advised it is fine to add such things. Will need to do so for other items like dash mounts, Brake Bias Adjuster, etc....

Some ideas being toy'd with to add some lateral bracing. Although I imagine it'll be pretty stiff as is. Thinking a gauge panel or the likes will do enough.

Alright, got the glue stick, card & snips out last night and braved the elements on the 3m trek to garage to see how things fit: Looks like I got the measurements right. Will be cut from some 5mm steel plate, the white space will be holes/voids. The smaller holes heading up the mounts is so I can bolt accessories on, possibly gauge panel / cluster, or dash mounts....

Lets hear you thoughts on the old girl: Build Thread

Thanks to some encouragment from Low'n'Slow, find herewith the latest chapter of my E30's build. The story up to ~2008: The project started in mid 2002, when I was given an E30 323i with a motor that was more of a 6cyl oil-pump than an internal combustion engine. So I setout to replace the engine with something more modern, BMW motors at the time were rediculously $$, with medorce HP gains (~190hp out of a M50B25). A 2JZ-GE sounded like a good option with 220hp and reasonable $$, but I couldn't find one. Until I stumbled across 2x complete 1JZ-GTE's with a JZA80 W58 for a whopping $2200. Then the fun began, and the engine swap, front brake upgrade & Cert' were done by mid 2003 in time to be used for our wedding. Which had a trio of 80's BMW's, being the E30 3er, E34 5er and a E32 7er. Not being content with the handling / braking, I did a '5 lug swap' using E36 Compact parts and M3 Control Arms. I used Porsche 996 Monobloc Brembo's up front with some nice Koni Coilovers. Stock Compact rear brakes, with Koni Shocks and Kings 'Low' Springs, still had it sqatting like a china-man with the 218rwkw it was putting down. With the Compact rearend, using the same E30 Axles & Diff this became the next 'weakest link' and was given the boot for some more custom DiY-age. Consisting of a late-model E28 5er subframe, trailing arms and axles, with a Supra *A70 G-series LSD (of which I have 3 for less $$ than one BMW LSD). At this time I needed to convert the rear to coilovers also to use the E28 trailing arms, which involved building some custom shock towers, and bracing to the new diff mount. The rear brakes were also beefed up to complement the front with matching porker 996 brembo monbloc's on big vented E36 M3 discs. After a couple of year of abuse, track days, suspension tweaks, exhaust mods, interior stripping, the old girl was not very street friendly and a bit anti-social. Which brings us to my current 'brain fart' situation. [edit] Dug up a few old pics: [/edit] Our first son was born in December 2008, and I had 6wks off work (well timed with the Xmas close down at work) and thought, geez this is cruisy, perfect time to get stuck into those 'bright ideas' I've had. Heck, there seems to be plenty of time to get things done..... Well, almost 5yrs later, as you can guess I couldn't have been more wrong!! ***** Rewind to December 2008: Well over X-mas, with a new addition to the family I had a bit of time on my hands and an angle grinder waiting for a good time. The goal is to be a fun track / clubmans race car. The mods meet the OSCA rules (Namely: max. 305mm firewall setback & No.1 cylinder no more than 5% of the wheel base behind the front axle), should I get the itch to take things up a notch (and find/win some $$$). As you will see, there is a long way to go yet.... I'll let the pics take it from here: Pulled out the engine & gbox and sat one of the rear sump pans I had in the bay. Then took to the firewall with the angle grinder. Jump forward in time a bit. Possible new location for the intercooler & radiator. Some new end tanks for the IC will be on the cards. ***** Brakes are well sorted, made sure of that a couple of phases ago. Porsche 996 Mono-block Brembo's with Pagid RS4-4 pads (oranges). Front: Rear: (also with the E28 rear-end and coilover) ***** Righteo then, a few pics of the limited progress. Downpipe & Wastegate done. Bit of a squeeze past what is left of the firewall Fitted up to the original 3" zorst just nicely NB. The tilton pedal box will be ~6-8" back from where the accel pedal is now. PS. Great tube notching/coping app. Couple of old ones (6/2005 ), of the rear towers (for running coilovers). incl rear bracing and diff mount. Welding to the panel steel was a PITA, was a 2 person job one holding a big copper bar (as a heat sink) in the wheel well. ***** Been a quiet winter, spending time in the warm with the kids had a bit more appeal than the cold garage. But it's spring, so lets check out the new growth... Got the new Firewall & Trans Tunnel folded up, and have started fab'ing into place. The top half of the firewall is now welded inplace. Next is the trans.tunnel O'Joy ***** Metal work nearing completion. Just have the area around the shifter and the steering column to go. Then onto seam sealing and some rattle can red. ***** The E30 saw the light of day for the first time in +4yrs (March 2013). Found a small dragon lurking in the bay... And a smaller one making the engine sounds from the drivers seat... Took about an hour to get him out of there. And a couple of the finished tunnel / firewall. Now it's off to Bam's toget the rollcage done ***** Well, she's back from her holiday at Bam's Just need to sort out my expired race licence(s) and send off the homologation paper work. Had to dial it back a bit to meet my budget, plus I'm never going to want, get or expect 10/10th out of an old E30 chassis. So what would have cost a lot more $$ didn't really add any more value (to me). It is still a pretty comprehensive 8pt cage with nice direct load paths through the main members. Most of the 'extra' stuff can easily be added later if so desired/needed. Also, the way Sch A now reads, and from discussions with MSNZ, directly tie-ing the 'safety' cage into suspension or driveline mounting points is a no-no (ie. top of the rear shock-tower, rear subframe attachments, etc...), With the emphasis on occupant safety and not a means to building a half tube frame reinforced chassis, unless you head down the 'free concept' path and prepare all the engineering calcs/certification. Now I need to pull finger and get the motor & loom back in there *joy* ***** Enough of the retrospective stuff, back to the present. Got the race license sorted and homologation all done Got the cage all prep'd & primed with some nice black etch primer. The exhaust manifold has been machined and painted with some arguably sacrifical 2000° VHT, along with the downpipe. Fab'd the oil drain for the turbo and blanking plates done for the rear water line (heater core removed). The Motor and Box are back in so I can get a few bits'n'pieces fab'd up. Checked I could put it in with the exhaust manifold on, so I can get it wrapped while on the engine stand. Got the seating position set, and setting up the steering column at present. Printing out the template today for the mounting brackets to weld to the dashbar so I can check before getting them cut. If you've driven an E30 you'll unterstand that the steering wheel positon is not adjustable, and is on a semi-bus angle. Not so good when you've moved the seat back 8" and lowered it, so the firewall mount has been raised to flatten the angle. The new column mounts will have a small degree of adjustability built it. I've got a deep dish Mod-08 Momo Wheel and will need a quick release, so should work out well for reach distance. The lower steering column is a bit of a DiY hodge-podge, not wanting to preclude the possibility of getting her re-cert'd for road use, I have used a selection of E30 & E36 Uni's & shafts that can be bolted together. The 'rag-joint' was replaced with a nice steel disc to hold the 2 halves together. Then onto mounting the pedal box. Will now have to do some real work so I can get some new pics up. Hope you enjoyed the read for now.

Great work. Love it! Keep the updates coming.

Is poorly abbreviated, but means: Same Power or Less Power Same Capacity or Less Capacity More is More = Cert So you can't downsize your stock A15 to a worked A12, as that would be Less Capacity but More POWAR (you would hope)

Or leave it parallel (so as not to remove excessive material) and build a drag-link that has rod-ends not ball-joits.

Liking this build!! The front end/bonnet vents/guards look a bit like a scaled up Lancia Delta Integrale. And the box guards actually look a nice shape/contour, maybe the E30 M3 & the Integrale were inspired from the carpi, imagine that....

Nice work. I miss my old BFMR, same colour scheme as your TX-3

All this sounds like more dis-incentive to get mine re-cert'd.

Nope, no rear bar here. 175# is pretty soft, and the E30 will have more sprung weight in the rear than an esky (IIRC we ran 175's or 200's in our civic rally car, which had no weight in the rear) What rate springs are you running up front? (FYI - I use 550# with the OEM motorsport sway bar, 22 or 23mm I think, but will need to change it as there is a sump in the way now)

I know all about that, dam pedals!! Looks nice with the ITB's ps. Saw your Q on e30tech re: Spring Rates for rear coilovers. I run a 120/350# tender/main combo and would say it is a bit on the stiff side, but I also do not run a rear swaybar. Something ~250# -> 300# would probably be the go.

Yeap, 1G's do sound V.nice Almost as good as a 1JZ, but I'm a little biased

Go for something like the one below. Obviously you'd need to fit it to the motor/chassis space you have. You could push it right back against the firewall, but as bubblegoose mentioned, there isn't much strength at that part of it, as it is just the fans for the heater behind, and the main structure isn't until nearer the base of the windscreen as you would have seen from inside the cabin. Mason Strut Brace