f100_dreamin

Ok so the house thing is all going to plan. The downside to this is that the people who are buying my house want a fast settlement. As in we have three weeks to pack everything up ready to move house. What this means for the Plymouth is that I need to get it to the panelbeaters to have the roof tidied up (where the factory leading has been removed and poorly bogged) and repainted. However I had started to replace brake components and had run into issues with the fixed lines braking. And I hate making brake lines, in all my years as a mechanic it has always been my most hated job, I had borrowed an SP tools double flare kit from @Shakotom however the 3/16 mandrel centre pin is bent and I couldn’t for the life of me get it to do a nice straight flare. So I stumped up and bought an Eastwood 3/16 double flare tool, It’s called an on car double flare, however you can remove the handle and mount it in a vice. The flares come out very nice and it’s way easier than using the conventional style double flare tool. Broken lines have been replaced. There are more that need doing but that can wait until we are in the new house and I have had the underbody blasted and painted, discussion here:

Man that under body came up mint! That’s pretty much my aim to have the Plymouth looking like that eventually

Pulled the back seat out today, found this Pretty cool to find the build sheet in such good condition

Yeah I noticed the same on the Belair, was kind of a turning point in the build for me, felt like everything after that was putting the car back together,

Man you gotta be happy with how that came out.

Progress has been slow due to having to do grown up stuff. The upside to this is that all going to plan my wife and I have purchased a new house that has a 70m2 American barn shed, so will be getting a hoist once we move in which will make working on cars so much better. The plan for now isto replace the wheel cylinders, replace the hard fuel line that I’ve removed already, and then I’m going to strip the roof so I can drop the car to the panelbeaters just before we move to get it out of my hair anyway I’ve replaced the rear wheel cylinders and sorted the extra long brake line on the diff before, too long and wrapped around the diff, Now, tidy, the right length and secured by the clamp I’ve also swapped the headlights out for a set of semi sealed ones with the correct lenses for NZ nothing major, but slowly chipping away!

You should get a go pro and make a time lapse of you getting it down. Maybe over lay some Benny hill music. Will be awesome

As per usual Kenny, your killing it, can’t wait to see what colour you’ve chosen!

Continued with the tedious job of underseal removal, 4hrs in and maybe 1/8th of the job is done. But it’s on the easiest parts to begin with so am expecting that to be faster progress than the other parts again I’m happy with the condition of things under the underseal, better news yet is that most of my parts have arrived from Rockauto and the contents just waiting on the ball joints to turn up now,

While I wait on parts to arrive I decided to start the long painful tedious job of underseal removal (as the guy who is going to blast and paint the underbody wants the underseal gone as the media he uses won’t remove it) got the right rear floor pan cleaned up, happy to report no holes haha, This is where the two rusty fuel lines were sitting (see above) Looks good under there as that was one of the areas of concern for me Also forgot to put these pictures up, they are of some receipts I found in the glove box, Auto trans rebuild receipt: Receipt for 4 tyres (hard to read in photo): and a registration receipt: Hopefully parts turn up tomorrow Discuss here:

Yeah I’m with you there. But once you get it right you’ll be set. I haven’t had to do sweet f.a to the Belair since I got it on the road and we have clocked up some serious Miles in it. The good thing with these old cars is that they are nice and simple so getting them reliable is fairly easy.

Awesome man, I bet you cant wait to have this out and about cruising!!

So I had a call from FEDEX last week, When I ordered all my parts from Rock auto, I spent a heap of time doing it in smaller orders to keep it under the $400 limit to avoid GST, however because its all coming in on the same Plane Customs has stung me an extra $192 because they class is as one shipment, Lesson learnt there haha, Anyway Parts are in NZ and I should have them tomorrow or Wednesday, Will be like Christmas again, Photos to follow,

to be fair it looks better than the multi wood block setup you were using initially haha, Looks like your making good progress on the work so far,

I spoke to the guy at autoblast Pukekohe, if I strip the underseal (as his media wont remove it) then he will charge me $800+gst. That’s blasted and painted and provided he doesn’t have to acid the floor and reblast it a second time. Which also pumps the price up His shop had about 5 cars inside waiting to go. 3-4 week wait he reckons, I think that a special rate though as we have sent him a few land cruisers to blast and paint chassis’ on. I think that that will be the go. So I need to sell my dirt bike now haha. He said I may as well start doing all my other work to it for now at least that way when it comes back from him all the suspension etc will be blasted and painted Cheers for all all the feedback guys

Yeah am going to look into buying a smaller sand/media blaster for the areas that don’t clean up with the wire wheel. To be fair the pictures are making it look worse than it is I think.

@cletus Yeah, even with the engine running there's a huge amount of free play, you can almost rock it from 10-2 with out the wheels moving, will see how it adjusts up and go from there, If its that much then ill do it manually, my time is free, might buy me a cheap 10ltr sandblaster off trademe for the hard to reach places that I can get to with the wire wheel,

@piazzanoobYeah am only going off what the seller told me, who is the same guy that brought my Belair into the country, is what it is at the end of the day, like I say it’s all solid just looks shit haha, yeah I’ll be taking it to work and giving it a big steam clean at the very minimum, and if it’s going to be as expensive as you got quoted to have it blasted then I’ll just do the tedious process of hitting it with a wire wheel and clean it up myself. If not then I’ll pull the running gear etc out and have it blasted. Because we have the Belair I have the luxury of not having a deadline to have this done. @cletusSweet man fire me a PM with what you want for them and I’ll keep that in mind if the PS box doesn’t want to be adjusted to an acceptable standard/fitting new seals to everything may end up being in the CBF category haha

I drove the car home from work, what a whale, (it’s funny it literally has the world smallest carb, I’m sure it’s about the same size as the one on the 235 blue flame 6 cylinder that’s in the wife’s Belair) this showed a couple of things that will need attention, the fuel and temp gauges don’t work, the power steering box has excessive free play in it but otherwise drove nicely, I showed the wife (so she understand why she won’t be seeing for a few months.....maybe longer) put it in the garage, lifted it up on ramps in the back and axle stands in the front, realised how much flex is in a pillarless car as if I had the axle stands behind the front axle centre line, the doors opened and closed noticeably less nice, can understand why it’s common to put subframe connectors into these vehicles and it’s definitely on the list of things to do after compliance have had a good look under and around the car and have come to conclusion that it really needs to have the under body blasted, it looks to be nice and solid, but there is a fair bit of rust/dirt scale. I’m going to go see a chap in Pukekohe that has been recommended to me to see how much it’s going to hurt to have it done. All the fixed hard hard fuel and brake lines will need to be replaced so I will get them out in the next week or two and get them re made and refitted. The brake line on the diff was obviously made too long so some ones fix for this was to wrap the fixed line around the axle tube, The RR 1/4 has rust starting to come through on the inside and out. Not enough to stop compliance so that will probably wait until afterwards. There is a little bit of rust in the LR spring hanger mount point in the chassis rail but it’s bugger all realistically so I’m happy. The PS box and pump both seem to leak, there is wiring to the gearbox that has been on the exhaust at some point and melted, there is sign of a trans pan leak, obviously the fuel gauge has been an issue as some one has rangi’d and earth wire to the sender unit, And rockauto has given my bank account a hammering tonight, I’ve ordered wheel cylinders, brake hoses, temp sender, pitman arm, idler arm, all inner and outer tie rod ends, engine gasket set, ps box and pump gasket sets, full poly urethane suspension bush kit, all four shocks (uprated KYBs), All upper and lower ball joints, i messed up and ordered 2x suspension bush kits, I’ve cancelled one so I hope that gets caught before the pick and pack it, and they refund me my money. Over all I’m super happy with it, I think it’s got huge amounts of potential and I can’t wait to get it legal and start tidying up the body and personalising it

Haha it’s good to know that there is a good amount of knowledge there that I can hopefully quiz from time to time to aid with the build.

Its here early!!!!! now the real fun starts,

Would assume engine HP, http://www.hotrod.com/articles/318-small-block-build/ that's the link there, they call it sort of a budget build, will use it as a loose guide and see where I end up haha. Yeah I've been doing a bit of research and found bugger all in NZ, I see Summit racing has a fair few parts listed but to be fair that is going to be a little while down the track, Cheers mate, yeah I thought it would be a 904, and from what I've read there has been plenty of companies that have started making uprated parts for them so they can be built reasonably strong, but like I say I'm new to this Chrysler/MoPar game so will be a learning curve that's for sure haha. unfortunately it is a Drum brake car, so a disc upgrade will be on the cards once its through Vinning,

Haha cheers man, it’s my first adventure into Chrysler so I’m sure it will be an interesting adventure haha.

Discuss how my levels of bogan have move up the scale here!

Nah the big block was simply just cool because it was already there. For now my main focus is getting it vinned and legal, see what condition the rest of the running gear is like. I’m not even sure what auto is in the car, There is a fairly standard recipie to get 400hp from a 318 using later magnum heads, so would like to aim for around there eventually but probably go with alloy heads.