mikey

Woah, I've missed like the last 3 weeks of messages here. Damn these emails not working. Pretty much all these reasons. I think race seats and a full cage is a step too for for a street car. Which begs the question, why bother at all? Mostly because my wife insisted after I told her what speeds we get up to on the track. Personally I doubt a half cage does much for safety anyhow, unless you're adding harnesses, but don't tell her that. I really don't want to lose the factory seats. As far a homologation goes I don't know if there's much point is there? Since a half cage doesn't really get you in anywhere? Or maybe that's not true, you need a half for some hill climbs don't ya? Hmmm Maybe I should look into it. I don't know anything about that jazz. Sounds complicated!

I nows haz all the rollcayges! TTT did an awesome job on the fab work and I painted it.... except for the bits I missed.

The most perfect things I've ever bought: They're brand new Datsun 510 mirrors which were chrome but now powder coated. You cant buy 240z ones anymore but they're almost identical. Matt black was a factory option too. I also got my radiator re-cored: Other fun things are about to happen too!

ZOMG This is just so damn exciting.

http://www.dinoplex.org/tachoconversion/index.html I got a bunch of these boards printed and enough components to build a few. In most situations it'll mean you can run a stock tacho off anything with digital ignition signal. Also, the scope turned up yesterday so I was really looking forward to hooking it up and getting my tacho working, however, some scum broke into my car and stole it last night. So now I have to buy another one.... Thieves are just great.

I pissed around with the push rod heaps last time getting it just right, and it all seems mint without the vacuum line so I think it's OK. Will double check that stuff thou. Am going to Hampton Downs on Saturday so would quite like to have it sussed for that.

I was pretty careful with this when i first set it up, but I'll double check that little blighter.

Oh good stuff. I shall try these things and report back. YAY!

Ahhhhh, this is possible I guess. It's got the original check valve from the 240z. Can I make a restrictor out of some round with a 2mm hole drilled in it or sommin and put it inline with my valve?

Can someone tell me what the shit? My booster has been rebuilt and now the first inch of travel is really easy to press and has no feedback and almost locks up the front wheels. If you try and brake harder the pedal goes mega hard, like there's no boost at all. If you disconnect the vacum line everything works as you'd expect and it's all peachy, albeit a bit of hard work for this office worker's delicate feet. This is on the 240z. It has a 15/16th master, R32 GTR four pot front callipers and factory drums in the rear. YAY!

This is fantastic you poof. I very much look forward to max low and have you considered a vq35?

SUSSED. I pulled the baffle out and drilled a 10mm hole in three of the sides. I also slid clear tube over each of the solder joints on the wiring. It now pulls like a mo fo. I'm so friken stoked. I'm pretty sure It was because of the wiring shorting, not the holes. The relays don't get nearly as hot as they were before. I might put an undrilled baffle in there later to test.

Zomg. It's fixed. It pulls like a fucken donkey. I could NOT be happier! Will post in Fred

Ok. All of your ideas are super awesomeness. I'm gonna tidy up the in tank wiring and maybe make some holes in my baffle to rule that out. My fuel setup is unconventional. It's dead head which is how the stock 350z setup is. But not a common way to go. Could be this. Harder to fix though. I've not hooked up vacuum line to reg yet. Didn't think it would cause this since not even managing static pressure. I report back soon. With many drawings of emu.

This, is a good idea. I will look into this more. I wouldn't be surprised if I actually have a few things causing slightly different stutters. There used to be some hesitation you could break thru eventually. Now there's what feels like a complete shut off when flooring. BUT. I have learnt some things. When it cuts off the ECU is still running and according to the timing light, still sparking. (This is not conclusive, it might still be sending spark signal but not the enable signal to the coil drivers) ALSO I took a video of my fuel pressure when it happens: My top suspicion is that the fuel pump power wire is shorting against the inside of the tank. Other possibilities are my baffle is not letting enough fuel in for the pump to pressurise under load.

Ha, it sometimes does come in handy. I can't really comment on the handling thing much since I've not really been able to thrash it yet. boooo

Oh yes! I finally twigged the Landcruiser. You were very naughty, "One vehicle green per lane" Mister Sheepers. I got quite a wee fright when I saw you two coming up behind me in go-fast mode while I was fucking about with the keys. Loose something-or-other fits, just need to find it.

I wasn't shunning you, I just couldn't hear you now my car is so well insulated - ha ha. The drive to work was my test run. It cut out real bad then. I think I actually had to turn the key off an on to get it back. This is partly why I'm focussing on the cutting out now; it's gotten a lot worse. Sometimes it sputters, sometimes it cuts completely. I'll hook the timing light up to it and take if for a drive tonight. If the timing light stops blinding me when it sputters then I guess it's spark. Which probably doesn't help me much. Ha ha

I've been doing some bits and bobs, mostly boring shit like uni-joints, window regulators. I've closed in the tunnel, makes such a difference: I've finally gotten to a point where I can try and sort out the poor running. It stutters when you floor it sometimes. It seems to have gotten worse recently. It seems to be related to throttle position, the engine will sometimes stutter a bit when I put my foot down. Sometimes it'll die completely unless I release the pedal a little bit, at which point it picks up again. I'm pretty sure the ECU & throttle body are still operating when this happens because the induction noises seem to match the pedal position - even thou the engine isn't firing. The engine is fly-by-wire BTW. I haven't worked out if it's fuel or spark that's missing, I'll try and suss that tonight. I've had some nagging doubts about some of my wiring so last night I: Moved the ECU and O2 heater power supply off the fuel pump relay and on to their own relays. Added a fat new ground cable to the ECU. Cleaned up all the surfaces for the other grounds. Used fatter wires for the fuel pump. There are no unusual codes being thrown. Remaining doubts are: The Fuel pump relay still gets pretty hot Wondering if the ECU ground should be seperated from the other grounds that are there? The pedal sensor wiring is a bit iffy. This is the fusebox I'm using:

Oh wow, those wheels are epic!

Oh thanks man, Yeah, I got a little enthusiastic at the on-ramp. Those lights trigger something in my head. Woah woah woah! There're heaps of rad looking cars here. But thanks. It's been big work. Still a long way to go too. The car really needs a repaint, it's starting to bubble a lift all over the show. I might farm that work out.... But it feels great to have gotten it back on the road! Yeah!

No wozzas. Thanks for the help debugging it. Got a few ideas about what to look at next. And since I'm so susceptible to peer pressure I'm sure there'll be a forthcoming skid vid soon. ha ha

Yeah I'm stoked. It's waaay quicker than the old engine. It's hard to know for sure until I'm at the track. I'd like to try some 0-100 times too just to see. But yeah, will be better once I've sussed some of it's issues. Rod didn't check out my car, it probably looks pretty predestrian to him! I will suss a strut brace, I haven't had one since I put the coil overs in. Yeah I'll black wrinkle the plenum. Ultimately I'd like to put a different plenum in, or even ITB's but I'll just stick to this for now

I made it to Leadfoot Ranch and back and met Rod Millen. We got to drive the driveway, the whole thing was properly rad. by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr This is what the engine bay is currently looking like Inspection light of radness for Rookie: All and all I'm stoked with how the car ran. There was an issue with putting my foot right down, the ECU would go into failsafe mode when the pedal goes past 100%. That was easily fixed by winding out the pedal stop. The engine stumbles a little bit sometimes when on the gas, for now I think that's an earthing problem. Will tidy up the earths a little and see if it helps. And finally, the fuel pressure shits itself occasionally and starts fluttering and bouncing like a tap hammering. Might need some dampening?

Ha, yeah I stopped a few times in a short space there. The fuel pressure was fluttering & bouncing like a house tap hammering. Not too sure what the story is. But I'm stoked to be honest, these little bugs are a small price to pay. Hopefully they don't take long to fix.