mikey

I only just realised this. Spaz. Will have to swap 'em over tonight.

I might just use your trick cletus so I don't have to make new lines just yet.

Yeah makes sense. Looks like joker got it on one! Thanks guys, you're the best!

The bleed nipples are at the bottom if I follow you correctly. I'm guessing that's wrong? What with gravity and that.

I've put Nissan R32 calipers on my car in place of some toyota 4 pots that were there before. And I've bled them a couple of times, there's no air coming though but the pedal goes right to the floor. If I pump the pedal a few times it firms up a bit. And if I pinch off the soft-lines at the calipers the pedal is rock solid. I've kept the 15/16ths master that was there before. So what's the issue? My neighbour mentioned I might need a residual pressure valve but from what I can make out they're only used in drum brakes or to stop syphoning when the master is below the slave. Thanks for any advice.

Thanks guys. I'm jolly happy it runs! I wish I didn't have to put an exhaust on it, it sounds vicious. The microphone on the phone couldn't really handle the awesomeness.

Shitballs. This thing is looking fricken awesome.

I've hooked up a few more bits and pieces and the new airdam, I'll paint it to match the car when I have more time. Oh, and it bloody runs! STM popped round and reflashed the ECU and we're all go. It sounds brilliant with just the headers. So this is what's left to do this week: Get exhaust made - check with TTT when the can fit it in Fit radiator - It's at the radiator shop at the moment. Fix front brakes Put front bumper and indicators on Get wheel spacers to clear brakes - At machine shop, hopefully pick up tomorrow Fix Leak in fuel filler neck I suspect the front brakes need a residual pressure valve. There doesn't seem to be any air in there, and if I pinch off the softlines the pedal is hard.

Got a fair bit done today, picked up the new driveshaft and put it in along with the axles. Reinforced the floor above the trans mounts. Put the guards back on. replaced a bit of rusty steel on one of them. I also managed o read the DTC's from the ECU, it is throwing NATS errors which is good because it explains why it's not starting AND STM are coming around tomorrow to reflash it and turn NATS off YAY!

Not much to show for last nights efforts. I fitted the oil pressure sensor and bodged together a MAF housing: Edit: FRKN PAGE THREE!

Have I mentioned how much I frking love this car?! Can't wait to see it in hahei.

Yeah I got a K&N a little while ago at your suggestion. I might even hook it up tonight! With the brakes there's about 2mm of air-grasping, which apparently a lot of people run brakes like that. But yeah, that's why I'll move them in a couple of mm at some point. I spoke to the guys who I want to do the exhaust yesterday. They're pretty busy but if things go well this week for them, and me, they might have a day free to do it next week. Which'd be perfect. So will talk to them on Monday. Otherwise I'll get a muffler shop to do it. It'll be a new exhaust from the headers back. Mr Clipboard, does indeed need to give it the all clear, however that's not gonna stop me taking it on the road. Because meh AND my Subaru's cam belt snapped on Friday which is about as gay as it gets. I own 3 cars and a scooter and only one car runs....

The ID of the spacer is 66mm so I need to take that out to 73mm which is the widest part of the hub. Then the wheel's ID is 73.5mm so I'll need the locator ring to go from 73 to 73.5mm Should be doable because the part of the hub that sticks through is tapered. Mag wheel shop is probably a good option, I just wasn't sure if they do their own machining or if they send them off.

I just scored some wheel spacers, new pressure sender and fittings. I'll need to take the ID of the spacers out and get a locator ring pressed in. Anyone have any city/west auckland recommendations? Speed is what I'm after. I also just got a call from STM to confirm they're coming around this weekend. So should be all go!

Thanks for the encoragement. It's actually looking quite doable now. So long as there's no surprisadoodles. Yeah, not far away. Hopefully this weekend. Whoop.

10Speed helped with some spannering last night and we made some good progress: * Put Windscreen back in, bonnet on * Assemble front suspension and steering

I reckon there's a 10% chance I'll be ready to roll for hahei. So I made a list and I'll give it a bloody good nudge! Stuff I need for hahei: * Get driveshaft made - should be ready by Friday * Get exhaust made - check with TTT when the can fit it in, hopefully next Friday * Reflash ecu - STM next weekend? * Put Windscreen back in, bonnet on - Tuesday * Fashion MAF housing from drainpipe - Wednesday * Assemble front suspension and steering - Wednesday & Thursday * Mount accelerator pedal - Thursday * Fit radiator - Thursday * Bleed brakes & clutch, Put oil in diff & gearbox - Thursday * Reinforce floor around trans mount - Saturday * Electric radiator fan - anything from pickapart, Saturday * Assemble axles and drivetrain - Sunday * Assemble front body - Next Monday & Tuesday * Get wheel spacers to clear brakes - Got some, just need to get them machined a liddle bit. * Fix Leak in fuel filler neck - Next Thursday Shit that can wait: * Fashion shifter boot * Fix rust in roof * Speedo * Tacho * Coolant gauge * Oil pressure gauge * Fix rust in guards * Paint airdam * Mount fuse box and ECU * Sort out radiator - can probably use stock one for now

I always feel real sketch welding a tank, so have filled it with water. Which is obviously bad when it comes to rust. What's people experience with welding it filled with exhaust gas? Seems a little less safe to me.

So I think the reason i managed to dick this up so badly is because I have an NPT flare nut in there. So managed to hand tighten it a couple of turns, thought it was OK but it was cross threaded. So will track down some helicoils and some non NPT flare nuts. It'll be interesting tapping the hole without hitting the flare seat...

I'm pissing about trying to find a oil pressure sender that'll work with the stock gauges. I think an RB one will work. However, during this pissing about I took the sender out of the engine and cranked it over expecting to see oil spit out the hole. But only saw a few ml ooze out after cranking it over about 10-15 times. Is that normal at cranking speed or should I be seeing more of an ejaculation of oil?

I think you're probably right. I pulled the threads on one of them by being a spaz and not really watching what I was doing.

Oh easy. Will go and pay them a visit. Oh, I just guessed NPT. I just checked them with a gauge and they seem just slightly bigger than 1mm pitch. But way smaller than 1.25. So I'm a bit unsure... They're r32 GTR 4 pot Sumitomo calipers.

Now that I've finished punching myself in the cock... Is it possible to helicoil the brake line input on aluminium brake calipers? Suggestions on where to go to fix my epic blowout? Or DIY the go (preferred)?

So everything's wired up. I've plugged in a cheap OBD thing and can read data from most of the sensors, with the exception of the O2 sensors, there might be something up with those. The dumb thing is my ODB thing wont give me the DTC codes. So I'm trying to track down a Consult (the Nissan scan tool) If anyone has one you'd be a legend if you could help me out. I'm 50/50 on whether the ECU will need the immobiliser stuff reflashed. STM in Wellington can do it if I have to. But need to check the DTC codes first.

I'm a million miles away from being ready. But I'm gonna work my nuts off and miracles might just happen.