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Rhyscar

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Posts posted by Rhyscar

  1. Thanks for the info! 

    Yeah I was planning on sandblasting and strengthening up the frame, maybe even adding a reverse triangulated brace (dunno what these are called) underneath.
    And yes wider wheels and higher rated tyres are on the agenda. I’ve got a set of 13” work wheels sitting behind the shed that should do the trick. 
     

    No suspension on this one, axle just bolted straight to the frame. Keeping the fixings lightweight will be a priority I’m thinking I’ll make a lot of stuff in alloy and get it powder-coated. 


    small bit of progress getting this thing onto the back lawn. Required modifying the back steps to be removable to get it past the garage. Win.


    Now I don’t need to look at it outside my kitchen window every day!

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    • Like 6
  2. On 29/10/2023 at 17:50, Nominal said:

    I see a lot of Lexus imports are from Singapore, any particular concern with that?

    Yeah nah stay clear of singapore. They aren't the same quality/spec as the Jap and NZ new ones. Some wiring is different, generally poorer condition for kms. 

     

    If there weren't so many good NZ new ones available you'd consider it. Still way better than owning a euro!!

    • Thanks 1
  3. Wow thanks @Stu I know nothing about caravans. Anything to look out for? Unsurprisingly, it is very lightweight and my key concern is repairing the frame so I don't need to run my wooden stripper pole setup long-term. Might beef up the trailer while I'm at it too. I'm guessing these are pretty common issues?

     

    Somehow, Hamilton is the capital of caravan manufacturing so I'm sure I'll find an old barry to help with bits and pieces. 

  4. 18 hours ago, shrike said:

    No plans to convert to electric power steering? Ie from a newer corolla, echo , vitz, prius or GT86/BRZ?

    Yes but no for a few reasons. I've gone with a MR2 electric PS pump because they've proven to be very reliable in different racecar applications. 

    On-the-column electric powersteer units are good, but are tricky to get feeling right and typically involve welding/replacing the steering column (difficult to get road legal). On the AP4 rally cars they use a Woodward column and mount and have some technical document with LVVTA on how they get them through the cert process.

    I pretty much wanted to avoid this level of complexity so have stuck with a tried and trusted electric-hydraulic system. 

    • Like 2
  5. 2 hours ago, mjrstar said:

    I reckon for peace of mind a little deflector guard in case of the accessory belt shredding makes sense if you plan on revving it to the moon.

    That’s a good idea. Doesn’t need to be a full shroud just a piece of decently strong stuff to absorb any impact.

     

    I really do need to run a pulley kit for 9000rpms but it’ll be a little further down the track. So best to play it safe in the meantime 

  6. Yeah I agree the group A era was the closest WRC has ever been to production cars and it produced some amazing cars from Toyota, Subaru and mitsi. The European manufacturers couldn’t keep up with what Japan was producing. 
     

    I need to take you for a ride when you’re in town it’s quite an experience for a factory car from 1996. 

     

    Toyota was actually dominant in 95 and I’m not certain Subaru would have won the championship if Toyota hadn’t been caught cheating. 

    But I look at a Toyota GT4 (even an RC) and I’m not inspired the same as there is such a massive disconnect between the production and rally cars as they were marketed as an executives fun toy with plush leather seats etc.

    Whereas I feel Subaru and mitsi were selling type RAs/RS’s in a form that was true to their rally beginnings. 

    • Like 5
  7. After a couple of goes I managed to track down the right bushes to rebuild the shifter. Feels so much nicer now. 

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    But man what a prick of a thing to work on! Haven’t sworn at a car so much for years… 

     

    Also took on first 15km drive to get fuel from Te rapa and half way the Speedo stopped working and then got a check engine light. 
     

    After some research found that without speedo reading and after 15mins of driving it throws a check engine light and limits to 4000rpm. 
     

    They use a mechanical drive to back of dash with some whacky clips so will see if I can get cable remade. New ones are available but very pricey so will try a local shop first. 
     

    Hoping to take for a Sunday drive this weekend. Fingers crossed it all goes smoothly!

    • Like 7
  8. ITB's have made a comeback into the project plan as I've quite easily solved a couple of the headaches they were giving me. I'm quite happy about this because induction noises are great. 

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    SQ-engineering do a pull-down throttle bracket that relocates the pulley to use one of the TB shafts rather than sitting on top; Freeing up space for the fuel rail. 

    So clearance to the bonnet is very tight. I've adjusted the drivers side mount (with a grinder) to lower the engine another 6-8mm or so. I'll also skim some mm off the manifold on a angle to pick up a bit more clearance. Despite this, I will need to custom print some funky-shaped trumpets to make it work with no bonnet mods. 

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    Here's my clearance for the fuel rail. Still working out an exact plan here but seems achievable. 

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    Next on the list is sorting out the engine cooling system. The 2zz cooling system works the opposite way than I thought, which is a bit of a mind-fuck with a dual-pass radiator. Anyone have experience or handy diagrams for a dual-pass radiator? I'm assuming Hot in the top and cold out the bottom like normal? How to bleed/prevent air bubbles has me a bit stumped as my swirl pot/fill point will be on the hot side (right side as it comes out of the head). 

     

    I've also got a massive list of fabrication jobs all required to mount the radiator fans...

    1. Engine mount mod

    2. Remount headlights (I made mounts to suit headlights with broken tabs. Since then, I've picked up a mint set of headlights with all mounting tabs that I'll be wanting to use)

    3. Top radiator mount

    4. Remote swirl pot/radiator filler cap

    5. Radiator piping

    6. Radiator shroud & fan mounting

     

     

    Putting this here for future reference. 

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    • Like 9
  9. Due for a bit of an update here. Finished off battery mount, passenger footplate and switch panel. Drew is making headway on the chassis harness too. 

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    Switch panel design is quite neat and includes all the start/stop and major controls for the car, with the rest on the steering wheel. Racked my brain for ages to figure out how to mount without lots of fasteners. Made some little tabs that slot into a receiving plate. Should make it easy to pull apart/troubleshoot in the future if needed. 

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    Welded up a co-drivers footrest. Came out nice. Need to resist putting my feet on it and scratching it until it's powdercoated though!

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    Also, how good does the fuel pump setup look with unicoils to support the rubber hose? A++

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    • Like 6
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