Rhyscar

Also here’s a sneaky peak at speedlines. Again, found out people selling shit suck as the centre bores are 54 instead of 56 that all 5x100 Subarus have.. Were advertised as fitting gc8/Subarus and I double checked with seller also. on the plus side they are super low offset for Subaru (35p) so fit really well. Hoping the monster truck height will prevent rubbing. Not a big issue, just need to get bore milled to size but this will go on the back burner for a while.

After a couple of goes I managed to track down the right bushes to rebuild the shifter. Feels so much nicer now. But man what a prick of a thing to work on! Haven’t sworn at a car so much for years… Also took on first 15km drive to get fuel from Te rapa and half way the Speedo stopped working and then got a check engine light. After some research found that without speedo reading and after 15mins of driving it throws a check engine light and limits to 4000rpm. They use a mechanical drive to back of dash with some whacky clips so will see if I can get cable remade. New ones are available but very pricey so will try a local shop first. Hoping to take for a Sunday drive this weekend. Fingers crossed it all goes smoothly!

ITB's have made a comeback into the project plan as I've quite easily solved a couple of the headaches they were giving me. I'm quite happy about this because induction noises are great. SQ-engineering do a pull-down throttle bracket that relocates the pulley to use one of the TB shafts rather than sitting on top; Freeing up space for the fuel rail. So clearance to the bonnet is very tight. I've adjusted the drivers side mount (with a grinder) to lower the engine another 6-8mm or so. I'll also skim some mm off the manifold on a angle to pick up a bit more clearance. Despite this, I will need to custom print some funky-shaped trumpets to make it work with no bonnet mods. Here's my clearance for the fuel rail. Still working out an exact plan here but seems achievable. Next on the list is sorting out the engine cooling system. The 2zz cooling system works the opposite way than I thought, which is a bit of a mind-fuck with a dual-pass radiator. Anyone have experience or handy diagrams for a dual-pass radiator? I'm assuming Hot in the top and cold out the bottom like normal? How to bleed/prevent air bubbles has me a bit stumped as my swirl pot/fill point will be on the hot side (right side as it comes out of the head). I've also got a massive list of fabrication jobs all required to mount the radiator fans... 1. Engine mount mod 2. Remount headlights (I made mounts to suit headlights with broken tabs. Since then, I've picked up a mint set of headlights with all mounting tabs that I'll be wanting to use) 3. Top radiator mount 4. Remote swirl pot/radiator filler cap 5. Radiator piping 6. Radiator shroud & fan mounting Putting this here for future reference.

Due for a bit of an update here. Finished off battery mount, passenger footplate and switch panel. Drew is making headway on the chassis harness too. Switch panel design is quite neat and includes all the start/stop and major controls for the car, with the rest on the steering wheel. Racked my brain for ages to figure out how to mount without lots of fasteners. Made some little tabs that slot into a receiving plate. Should make it easy to pull apart/troubleshoot in the future if needed. Welded up a co-drivers footrest. Came out nice. Need to resist putting my feet on it and scratching it until it's powdercoated though! Also, how good does the fuel pump setup look with unicoils to support the rubber hose? A++

Thanks @kpr sounds like it’s worth a go at home. I’ve got 1m of it so can have a second go if I screw it up

Thanks heaps, I should have looked at the data sheet first it’s been years since I checked it out. Definitely sounds like a milling job ah ok that makes sense about fuel rail extrusion differences.

Yeah having it leak would suck so wanting to do it properly. I’ll try to clarify my question Is the hole you need to drill a standard size for most injectors or are they brand specific? Also, which orientation does the extrusion need to be drilled in? I’m guessing the beefy side but seemed weird it’s offset/not central to the hollow section? trying to figure all this out before I order injectors so I get all the right bits with them first time round.

This is what the intake looks like. Should have sufficient space..

So firstly, I know almost nothing about injectors and fuel rails. All the cars I’ve owned run factory setups so I need to learn something new here. This is for my 2zz racecar. NA modest power, nothing special. I’m wanting to use a Bosch EV14 injector for improved atomisation, and because the factory setup looks terrible/injectors I have are completely unknown. A while ago I bought some fuel rail extrusion thinking once I saw it the puzzle would make sense and everything click into place… and I’m still stumped. 1. Is there a drawing/sketch showing the injector/rail interface point, tolerances and required seals? 2. When ordering injectors are there different seal/extension options to standard sizes? Are they brand specific? 3. I saw a thing on YouTube with a stepped drill with correct step. Are these needed/where to buy? Would be great if I could do all this at home with a welder and drill press but happy to get stuff milled if needed. Factory these systems are non return, but I’ll be returning back to fuel tank. Thanks in advance for your help!!

Wow I can't believe that's still on youtube...

Nothing of value to add here other than encouraging you to do this silly idea. We tried a woodstock/diesel powered 4age once. Was a bit low on compression and had a headgasket issue. 7%RON was obviously no good. 8% or 11% Cody's would have done the trick I'm sure.

Putting this brochure here for reference later on:

So wife and I have been looking for a sunday cruiser for the family for a while now. Won't be a forever car like the Lexus & Levin, but should be enjoyable to own & do some basic Resto stuff for a few years. I've always loved Subaru's based on their rallying pedigree, having spent my teenage years drawing Subaru rally cars and building Subaru models. My family wasn't into motorsport/cars back then so I didn't ever get much exposure to them. Found this 1996 WRX STI Version II Type RA V-Limited for a reasonable price. This is the first of the V-limited models which was released only in JDM market celebrate Subaru winning WRC manufacturers championship & Colin McRae winning driver title in 1995. It was also the last year Group A regulations were in place - meaning the road car was much closer to the WRC car. From 97 onwards the 2-doors Subaru's were based on World-rally-car regulations and didn't have to adhere to production vehicle specs as closely. This was the top-dog model with a bunch of special homologation features/quirks; Closed deck block, forged pistons, rods, mechanical lifters, fancy valves & TD05 turbo. Reportedly made around 300hp from factory (a shade more than the 206kw JDM gentlemans agreement) 5th injector in intake plenum (unused in road form, this was a homologation-special) Intercooler water sprayer Short ratio gearbox with Centre control diff (DCCD), rear plate type LSD Lightweight glass (green tint), lightweight panels/bonnet Seats with Colin McRae/Derek Ringer signatures Roof hatch, Wind-up windows, no rear wiper, aerial on A-pillar, black door handles, no sideskirts/basic bodykit etc. Weighed in at 1150kg or so. This one may be a little more as it was optioned with AC and a radio. no. 367 of 555 built (Based on Type-RA registry, I estimate theres maybe 100 left in the world?) These were pretty much group N rally cars from the showroom floor. It's 98% original which is super important. Has done high KM's (238,000) but last owner had for 13yrs so hasn't been thrashed too much. Generally rust-free but needs a good mechanical strip-back and freshen up and underbody tidy-up. To do list (in no particular order): Paint tidy up (bumper, bonnet, roof) Replace Shifter linkage Clutch Plugs/filter & general servicing stuff Swap out dumpy exhaust to something group A inspired Not planning to do much to this car just drive it every so often and do some basic restoration work. Focus is still on getting the Levin racecar finished by the end of the year. It was also my first experience towing with the Lexus and god-damn its a great tow car. Good noises, super lush, towed like a dream (even with very poorly loaded car). Used all the fossil fuel. First order of business was to acquire a set of gold Speedline wheels for the full Colin McRae look. These are the 17" version of the wheels used for Tarmac rallies in 1996. Will report back in a few weeks when I get a chance to get these on the car.

Man that sounds good!! Will be weirdly out of place in the Carina but that will add to the fun. Also a side note on changing belt path... I've seen what you've done cause vibration issues in high-revving Honda F-series engines. Ended up snapping main M12 alternator bolt/killing alternators. Turned out there was a reasonant frequency along the long straight run of the belt that came out at certain RPMs. I'm sure theres a way to calculate/avoid this if desired. But just a heads up since you'll be revving to the moon.

I feel like drag racing is the wrong motorsport type for a 1NZ...

That's quite average power output from a 2zz. By the looks of the dyno curve it must be using factory headers... 140kw is typically what you get with a good tune. But 1NZ is a lot more impressive than a 2zz cause it has 0.5L less capacity!

Made some stuff, mounted some stuff. Lots of careful thought and consideration went into all these things. Let's hope it pays off! ECU/fuse box mounted using rubber feet for vibrations. Should keep all this tidy and hidden behind the passenger footplate (work in progress). Added a reclined battery mount also for packing and short cables. If I was to do it again I'd swap which side battery is on. I'd originally planned to slot battery in under the ECU but it got too complicated as fuel lines run under the floor there. Blew the cobwebs off the tig. Still pretty rusty. Was trying a new Furrick cup and don't think I got enough stick out/too much gas flow for welding in the corners. Something to work on at least. Steering wheel buttons, lights and isolator switch in place. Trying to keep dash simple with minimal things to look at. Plan to run a Monit display in centre for speedo (driven from rear hub) which should meet WOF requirements. Also handy for rallying. Got a massive pile of parts ready to go to the powdercoaters so should be some tidy looking progress coming soon.

Yup thats right. Based on this. KPR might have some better info his collectors seem to follow a similar design. I'll pull the book out and take a look at the 6cyl stuff. Has been a while. Key bit to remember is that air has momentum so small differences in cross sectional area won't matter so much

Great work getting primaries to fit better. One things I found is not all bends are created equal. Adrenalin R bring in their bends which have a smaller CLR than the autobend/S&T ones so worth checking out the different options. But yeah cutting and shutting them like you have gets it done, I'm always surprised at how far a small amount gets you on the end of a 180deg bend. Collectors - don't bother with bandsaw its very hard to clamp/hold it on the angle required for the cut. Just Sketch out what you want, holesaw the big end/drill roughly where small end is (with some room for error) and free-hand the rest with a grinder. Yup it sucks but at least all your fingers will be intact. As for secondary length - have you seen this book? Can borrow my copy if you want. It talks about how secondary lengths don't matter so much, as overall length stays the same in 4-1 vs 4-2-1 applications. Reckons 4-2-1 is normally only used as a function of packaging, not performance. The book also has a section on V6 header and exhaust design which I skipped over as it was talking about a triumph V6.... and talks about exhaust sizing/lots of things you're looking at.

@87creepin Me too, but I'm expecting to need to add another resonator as 3" could be quite raspy/loud. I'm expecting a similar exhaust note to B18cr Honda's. As long as it doesn't sound like a 3sge I'll be happy.

Thanks Stu! Nice to have lots of support from everyone who has been in similar situations.

Thanks. Nice to not have it sitting on the floor and makes it look a little more finished. Yeah oil coolers and exit duct out bonnet require quite a bit more work to get right but slowly getting there. I'm trying not to prioritise things that aren't super important though - trying to have it running by end of year. I also got the swaybars in and the front one fouls my expansion chamber so that has come out now. Unsure if I'll bother reworking it until after the car is running. Key next steps; - Get battery, fuse box/ecu mount and passenger footwell fabbed, mount switch panel & lights in dash - Radiator plumbing, swirl pot/cap and overflow - Install a washer bottle & piping - Baffle sump - Oil cooler ducting and hoses - HEADERS Sometimes I get frustrated with my ethos for this car. Doing everything nicely takes such a long time but I can't be happy with it any other way. Next time/car I hope I find a middle ground that isn't so involved! //Rant over.

Engine back in the hole. Had to fight the polly bushes to fit properly but got there in the end. Added a HD exedy clutch and gave flywheel a skim when it all went back together. Decided not to run the ITB's to start with as I don't want to cut the bonnet and I need to cut/shut the CNC manifold to make it fit under bonnet. All achievable, but a big mission so not wanting to slow myself down. Got a few electrical parts to start fabbing mounts/buttons, fan shroud etc. I'm excited to be getting things moving. Kinda dig the front off look. Got a massive pile of parts to go to powdercoaters so once thats done then lights etc will go on for good.