Rhyscar

Awesome was a good car. i never got pulled up in it luckily. the 18x8's on the cert plate was the only issue..haha

There are quite a few builds but it should be relatively simple. a lot of guys buy cams pistons etc etc but don't really want to down that path. yeah engine bolts in pretty much as it uses a c series gearbox. will keep and eye out for a c60 6 speed but they are hard to find and about $1300. Only a small plate is required to adapt drivers side engine mount. how is the maxima going??

^^ haha yeah definately going to be a bit different. markkus car is quite a bit quicker at manfield not sure about taupo fwd seems to work really well there for some reason - i'm about 200kg heavier and being a road car there are a lot of things that aren't worth removing. although this car is mainly built for driving backroads tbh it just has to be fast on track as well. a friend put a 2zz in a aw11 mr2 and made 130kw atw on a standard ecu.. with a G4 and eventually outboard injection I'm hoping for 145ish kw atw. even 130kw I would be happy with!

yeah that is another option but also pretty much the same amount of work as using a nissan master.. ae82 and ae101 quite similar being fwd and compact in that area. the steering rack is at the back so the angle the steering column/universal is on is quite steep and right in the way. it could be possible to straddle the column with clutch/brake pedal but then have no room for masters.. got a reverse mount box prob the same as your starlet one.

yeah we just ordered a pedal box for dads ae82 but after getting it there is no way it is going to fit under the dash/through the steering column. everything is just in the way. and floor mounting box isn't an option I'm already sitting inline with the pillar cause I'm a tall bastard. can't move seat back much further as it hits rear seat rise/I'm already too close to main hoop for my liking..

so here is a bit of an update on this POS.. did a winter series club day at taupo on track 2 august-ish last year.. managed to get down to 1.21's and have a few good races with evo's and nzv8's! took heaps of rides and generally thrashed on it all day long with clutch kicking and ruthlessneess.. the clutch was starting to go by the end but managed to drive back to palmy with it but next day the car wouldn't start or run or go into/out of gear.. so that pretty much decided it that the engine and gearbox were out, and I needed to find a bit more power so I can keep up with those bloody super 6's on the straights.. also the time bracket for IB cup changed to a 1.18-1.25 bracket so I'm looking to get this car up to 1.20's which is ok for a road car.. 2zz seemed like a good option as it is later model, lift+ VVTi, alloy block (20kg lighter than 4ag) and it bolts in. also has forward facing intake for touring-car style ITB's sticking through the grill and making doorrty noises. so I found an engine in need of a rebuild and starting buying parts from toyota and through mates I found a mrs C56 gearbox with a bellhousing that will fit 2zz... meaning I shouldn't of sold my bloody diff in the first place! ohwell.. So I started pulling things out and tidying it up because tbh this car has been pretty rough the whole time and it is in need of a birthday. I repainted the engine bay and cleaned all the cv grease off everywhere... lightweight chromoly 2zz flywheel from the states; 2zz and 4ag clutch are the same so I have got an option of 2xheavy duty exedy/trd clutches to choose from left over So in between times I moved in with a girl and promptly moved back out which has stalled progress on the car substaintially along with drinking waay too much nothing really got done.. although I did buy 2 brand new sets of wheels for the car. 1st is 15x7 +25p Enkei J-speeds which will be my race wheels and second set are some 16x8 +25 Rota slipstreams which will be my road wheels. think they will just fit under the guards with a bit of massaging and a 205/45 tyre.. will use a G4 extreme as eventually I want to run outboard injection as it has proven gains at full throttle. I am making the intake manifold from scratch as well after looking at how to modify the blacktop one it is easier to machine the blacktop throttles out and use an insert like KPR did and then the manifold is just two flanges and some tube with the injector bosses you can buy off Ebay.. will be using bosch motorsport injectors and custom fuel rail. I think a 500L/hr in tank pump will be sufficient for now but hard to say once the 2nd set of injectors go in as they like to be about 800cc from what I've heard.. Suspension wise I am taking most of the camber out of the car and going to a stiffer front spring and a big adjustable rear swaybar to keep it from rolling the tyres. Tein coilovers are going to be shortened by 80mm for road legalness and also so it won't have any droop/pop a rear wheel when going around corners... I am wanting to sort all the loose ends out with this car before recert/going back on the road. this means a full panel and paint, remounting the seating position and tidying up the wiring under the dash. there has got quite few challenges but I want to build it into something a bit more special than a slapped together POS so progress is steady again with all rebuild parts bought, gearbox, clutch and wheels all sorted. can't wait to have this back on the road/track so I can drive it to work and then to the track on the weekends!

I'm wanting to upgrade the master cylinder in the race car to get away from criss-cross proportioned brakes and have an adjustable rear bias. I have wilwood dynalites on the front and looking at doing the 2pot wilwoods on the back as well. now the issue is that I'm putting a 2zz into it with ITB's and I'm not confident I will be able to get good enough vacuum (nor does it matter don't need it for anything else..) I had problems previously with the standard booster and standard blacktop intake as I do a lot of full/part throttle left foot braking and it kept running out of vacuum on the track. not knowing when you will have vacuum or not is awfully hard to drive with! I have been told nissan master cylinders have much better internal proportioning as well as being one line for front, one for rear so I can put a proportioning valve inline to the rear brakes and adjust it that way. so I'm looking to use the a nissan master on the standard brake pedal but not running any booster. I would imagine the mounting/bracket might need some bracing which isn't too much of a biggie and not fussed on how hard the pedal is, as long as it works. does anyone see any problems with this/have experience with this type of setup?

Yeah fonterra printer is pretty balls and we got a plotter as well. think ill run it through on a piece of plastic first and check that way. so far from anything square or logical its tricky. although would like to try machining blacktop throttles to make more round..

yeah sucks arse trying to draw it.. only solution I have thought of is printing 1:1 scale and comparing & making adjustments till its close. same with positioning of holes etc, realy easy to be 1-2mm out when they aren't lined up with something to refer to.

just wondering if someone can help me out. spent an hour or so after work today drawing up blacktop ITB flange - is such a gay shape with not a lot of reference points etc but think I am pretty close. Has anyone got either a scan or a dxf/dwg/.sldprt of one that has been cut and is reasonably close? had to hold gasket up to screen and squint through one eye to try get the splines/radii right.. not ideal also would like to check my 2zz flange I drew (drew it off a crappy thermal gasket) but doubt anyone on here would have one.. hey spence would be super keen to have a geez at the touring car drawing! is it hosted somewhere or can it be compressed enough to be sent??

nah i'm pretty sure the floor pan is the same part number when looked up on toyota's system. in fact ae111's are listed as about 80kg heavier than the ae101. prob mostly to do with being a newer car and having airbags etc. none of the ae101's came with airbags and you could get a gt apex with no ABS and non-superslut, it was just really rare. in fact i scrapped one not long ago

yeah i think the caribs had slightly different ECU's for some reason. hopefully it should all plug straight in as its still a ae11x model underneath the wagon-ness of it. it revved out to 8200rpm when i was in my car. never missed a beat. will confirm tomorrow and PM you, just need to make sure its still under the bench where i think it is.

yeah me too this one is getting towards the end of it life i reckon... i have a blacktop ecu if you want to chuck that in and see if it solves some problems? GT Apex with superstrut is supposedly to 1150kg or something. impressed with 1040kg for wagon though! less body panel angles/no rear parcel tray/no superslut suspension is prob where the weight difference is. the coupe chassis are built pretty tough around the sills etc, prob why they are good cars to drive. found 1 small weak point in mine though where the floor is starting to crack... i have noticed the ae111 coupes have a bolt-on metal brace around this area which must make a difference.

do it! touring car the shit out of it! oh damn that is light. i am kinda lucky as i started with the SJ model (4afe, drum rear end etc) which is 1050kg standard. an estimated guess would say its about 1000kg currently. every time i toil with the idea of lightening the doors (they weigh about 40kg each!) i go through a parking barrier and the joys of electric windows come back to me when that head was in dads car it was putting out a healthy 110kw atw in 4th gear (1:1). if i dynoed mine in 4th it would have got pretty close but the tuner said he would rather tune in 3rd as its easier, 4th gear takes forever to pull out with top of 4th gear being ~190km/h. now he's got some snow-special cams. hasn't been fully tuned yet as had a few electrical issues but last time it was on the dyno it made 117kw atw @7000 coughing and farting. will be revving it out to 9 so should make a bit more power yet.

totally should brad! i reckon 1.23's are achievable with a pretty standard car.. i've just gone the long way about it. no cage etc just strip out power windows, radio, dash etc etc then good suspension, good tyres and a mechanical LSD would do the trick - can do all that for under $5k. there has got a standard 101 doing RS cup lapping about 1.34's which i'm sure can be improved on pretty easily just with driving.

yeah i did notice... i also noticed you only got 50% in trolling efforts though, missing the drivers side wiper... hah story of my life! C's get degrees!

been testing/racing this thing lately. did a test day a week out from R1 of UTRS. did consistent 1.24.1's all day. wanted a bit more speed and the car felt like it was getting slower and slower by the day (was doing epic daily travels to apiti) kqk4I7r42tU tidy up of engine bay so decided with 4 days till the race meeting to pull the head off, change the headgasket and replace head with a ported head with slightly bigger cams in it. turned out to not be as straightfoward as it could have been due to needing to get shims sorted. seems like the valve springs in this head are waay to hard and stretches valves. going to rebuild spare head soon (hopefully before valve snapping occurs) just ended up spending a week getting drunk during the day and working on car. was lol when schoolkids rolled past to see me drunk as fuck on diesel in the middle of the day - there are 2x schools within 100m of my house... diesel torqued head bolts? YES please ...and for LOL's bOWhLlwmRZU oh and there were speedcocks! so all this came together and finally got it on the dyno friday arvo. pulled 100kw atw in 3rd gear. went better than before so happy with that. still blowing quite a bit of smoke, think it needs a new bottom end tbh. rocked out to manfield on sunday and qualified 4th and placed 3rd in my debut race meeting. other races were a bit of a mess up on the handicapping front, giving me a 40sec penalty meaning i never caught the pack although consistent mid 1.23 laptimes. got some work to do on suspension and rear brakes but pretty unkeen to touch anything and make it any faster... don't want to be breaking out of the 1.23 time bracket! just been driving it since then. need to find job so i can afford to build a new engine from scratch.

lewl you suck at answering questions simon.. good cuwp; 1uz, w58, bags, IRS lush cruiser and road legal just-fixed-a-fwuckload-of-rust-cuwp; 1uz, w58, racecar rusty-piece-of-fuckin-shit-i-just-dragged-all-the-way-from-whakatane; strip IRS, pillage w58 + driveshaft, gizz glass etc and then scrap the rusty piece of crap i swear after following that thing on the trailer all the way from whakatane i need some more tetnus shots! no shit the starlet window wouldn't wind all the way up and every time it went over a bump piles of rust would fall off, come in the window and make their way into my eye.. i would say it lost a good 10-20kg of rust during the trip!

i really like these cars so well engineered and built the qaulity of the chassis, engine and suspension components is excellent once you see one stripped to the bone. its actually incredible how much of a bargain some of these things are. for such a luxury euro with excellent quality i don't think you can go wrong tbh. there has got a volvo wrecker here in palmy that would be able to help you out since he races them. guys name is pete but he normally just gets called 'volvo guy' haha PM truenotch if you want his details he knows him better than i do.

hey nick, love the build. been a long time in the coming but looks really good as to how its coming together! car is looking good. have you got an ETA on when you think you'll be finished or is it quite flexible? as for your question i would suggest putting the 2 bars through to the strut tower. you will be glad it you are ever in a big crash (i.e. more chance of you being ok/not having feet crushed and more chance of car surviving and not being warped between strut towers and firewall) its ALL about triangles. cage turned out really nice though i like the simplicity of it yet still looks strong. pic of underside of 4link would be sweet. it turned out nioce giving me a few ideas now. i would think that it would be best to tie the 4link mounts to the bottom lateral bar on the cage. might not make much difference but after seeing truenotch's 4link mounts crack and move after ~15yrs of being a racecar it is def something i would do on my car. always best to do these kind of things at the early stage than going through the hassle of modifying later and dealing with re-homologation difficulties.

yeah this is my thinking as well. will have another look but pretty sure the shocks have internal bumpstops. its on a late 80's navara which has double wishbone suspension.

i think that pad needs the number 110 on it... at the hands of a certain skyline or AW.. just throwing it out there, i know you're all thinking it!

yeah ute has had a pretty hard life. might have to enquire as to where to find replacements. don't like my luck though. just looking at things it seems like the shock is waay too long for the application. at full droop the shock is twice as long (when removed) as it needs to be. so maybe the shock is bottoming out too early. have monroe offroad shocks in them. might be worth finding some standard ones off one of the other spare utes perhaps. thanks for the knowledge

spent the day fixing up one of the utes on the farm and really want to know if torsion bars wear out over time like a normal spring? i would guess that they would as they are doing the same job as a spring etc. why i'm asking is because i've got a problem with a ute bottoming out even though it is super jacked and has awesome shocks. this shock loading isn't good for it and broke the strut mount clean off the chassis rail.

keen to aim for being the fastest daily driver at every race meeting from now on! right now all i want to do is be in the racecar music video rendition of heaven is a halfpipe. where infact heaven is a racetrack and erry day we shuffln' (racecars)