azzurro

shakedown completed, wof aquired, burgers on

Drove the car to town and got a WoF yesterday used 1/4 tank over 60km. Making the carbs bark is very addictive! EURON8 had a drive - his hopefully his engine swap plans have been given a kick up the bum. Car also got a wax for being good. I fitted my first ever Croma parts - retractable seat belts - much much nicer. Also moved the Amp to under the seat from the passenger footplate (to give more passenger leg room, it was a dumb idea that had never bothered me untill not being the driver for once) and also took the fluffy seat covers off to revel in the velour. Went up north to visit my grandmother today, used another 1/2 tank of gas. Here is why: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=F9TE4N8ozSk cant stop doOOOOOOOOOrting Also used no oil or water, and starts first pop.

Visited the dude i got the sideys from originally to grab a few bits to knock off a couple of other jobs. Got a 2L Cam cover for checking the the ign timing. Its 'pre raced', chopped down for easy access to the cam wheels and came with a nicely race-drilled dizzy shield to stop stones flicking up and cracking the dizzy (which was apparrently a common issue in rally for these cars - who knew!) Anyway, I blardy love it. Ignition Timing was also spot on Also picked up a couple of 2L 131 secondaries hoping to just be able to bolt one up. However, the routing is quite different between the two cars (131 - 125)! L-R 131 OEM 34mm ID, 131 exhaust shop special 36mm ID, 125 OEM 34mm ID 125 has a much longer pipe run which is good, but has more tight bends which is not good. Ended up using the top 40mm off the bigger diameter 131 exhaust to 'slip' on to extend the 125 secondaries about 15-20mm vertically, which is all it needed to fit perfectly. Next Job: Test drive! up the road a couple of times, then around the block, and then to the shop to get a paper. Great success, went the long way round and got it into 5th for a bit too It feels way more solid all round, pulls well (ohhh the tourque) from all revs and the induction noise is just great. Did a wheely on dry pavement. Wet is just cheating now. No problems starting when hot or cold. No leaks, no funny noises Very happy, so gave it a wash. - Ajusted the clutch. - Replaced earth strap. - Swapped the spare OEM points voltage regulator for my new electronic one (solid on just over 14V now). - Put the Pertronix dizzy back in, along with the new HEI controller & special coil. No go, no spark. Old fat Coil back in, and runs off the Pertronix fine. Hope that the HEI is not a dud will check coil too. Car is sweet now, but still a few little things TO DO: - Fuel bowl in my pressure regulator is not filling - maybe (new) pump not working right on 2L? Maybe its time to go electric. - Put konis in. - HEI? sigh. - Put front croma seatbelts in (retractable) - move amp to under passenger seat - take all unneeded engine/tranny stuff to storage - strip croma - start turbo swap...lol

So Monday after work (after thinking about it all day) i pulled the console, gear stick, carpet, seat mounts, tunnel section and then extension to see this: see if you can spot the assembly error ANSWER: Spring and Washer between (1) and (3) are around the wrong way. Sping binds instead of dissapearing into (1) preventing sufficient movement to the left (right on gear stick) I totally blame Mr C Grant, as the buck stops at the top. Because of that dumb mistake, the gear selector lever (1) was unable to engage with 1st/2nd selector rod (5) which you can just see it sitting in 3/4 selector/neutral position deep in there: a thicker gasket (ie a gasket) was also installed on the retaining plate (4) to further increase the clearance for the selector to slide over into 1st. And all back together and done! 1st and second selecting, and carpet back in lucky the tunnel isnt welded yet... Im picking up some 2L secondaries later this week that will hopefully allow clearance for the exhuast under the floor, and a 2L cam cover so i can properly set/reference the ignition timing, so proper test drives soon

This box turned up after 2 weeks just sitting in "customs clearance" i ended up ringing them to give them a hurry up, so I could give them some tax + even more money than the tax, for calculating the tax, and delaying delivery. Of course it contains a few thing i was hoping would arrive earlier so i could install them before installing the gearbox Like - tranny mount, and - reverse switch but it also contains - Koni yellows for the front - handbrake switch - external voltage regulator (OEM points style one is back in, the other SS one went flickery a while back) - 'High Performance' HEI ignition controller - i have a later style coil i want to try with the Pertronix conversion i have - which also got it wires pinched inside the dizzy which i didnt pick up till swapping the engines - thatll be the high speed miss them - front wheel bearing grease caps because shiney. Ive now installed the Tranny Mount, but the reverse light can wait for another day. No reason to waste a gearbox worth of oil without moving a meter! In other news Engine all ready for first start: gosh they look good and make an awesome noise! things are going great with the engine and box is obviously all sweet, so install all the carpet and console, still using the 4 speed one, which ive ajusted only slightly, and the only issue is the cabin heater flaps maybe 10mm less opening, as console is sitting slightly further forward. Thats saturday done, so next day Sunday, ready for a test drive: Unfortunately, once we got down onto the road found that 1st and 2nd could not be selected, something which was not obvious from pushing it around and adjusting the clutch travel, and im sure it was fine before installation. After making bad smells with my !BRAND NEW! clutch it eventually got reversed (lowest working gear!) into the shed, in anger dissapointment. Upstairs to celebrate INTERNATIONAL ROAST DAY madethe day end a bit better.

ripped out the smokey but reliable 1608 and 4 speed this weekend with some help from EURON8 on saturday. we managed to pull the 1608 and get the 2L and 5 speed in the hole in an afternoon. Engine bay is just to short longways for it to fit easily. Today ive spent most of my time dodging showers, but managed to fill the big hole with metal, and make a solid dent in the list of things needing connected up. All going well shoud be running by next weekend ive got a few bits still to pull off the 1608: - ajdustable cam wheels - oil filter sandwich plate for guage Things i already need, - 2l secondaries - my 1608 ones are jammed up on the underside of the floor as the 2L is about 15mm taller. Good excuse to make some.

125S tunnel turned up the other day, thanks to nicks uncle ian: This one shows the hump for the 5 speed extension - in the 4 speed the seat mounts (the trapezoidal flat bit with a hole in each end ) are higher than the tunnel a head of it. its all tidied up now, ill use the section like a removable cap to ease connecting the extention (which is required to slip the box in and out attached to the engine. Also went for a small cruise the other day with a couple buddies:

last run before swapping to 5 speed and 2L/wof runs out woot!

Na. have ordered a gasket kit to do an EXTREME refresh like you all suggested. Nanait4lyf YO

agree. I bet mine will continue to run like a top till the sun cools. have to say im not angry, just dissapointed with the well considered, thoughtful responses and sensible advice i have had in this thread so far, that boils down to: DONT 4AGE IT BRO i was hoping for a sympathetic echo chamber to justify my foolish and ill founded ponderings

yep, trademe ones are probably toast, and i want it to come with all the bits, and just go, and if it doesnt be able to go back and get another, without dealing with muppets (asssuming the front cut/engine importers guys are not) I pretty much want to make mine into a BZ-T but with base model exterior

re old and fucked, shirley there are still low milage front cuts coming in from japan, or have i missed that bus? Edit - or Subie WRX motor for post # 555

nah, i want my car but better. Or a similar car but better. A 4AFE Carib is same car, but slightly uglier, especially if its blue/silver two tone. 4AGE on the other hand, i could learn to love that ugly face, and they look ok in white.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/toyota/auction-748248103.htm exact same kms. hmm

so tell me about how the fugly carib shape is invisible when you are sitting inside it listening to glorious induction noise from the factory throttle bodies

Good Advice BANNED

still, passing would be cool...

damnit i reread the quote i quoted. Mods to original engine allowed to add 20% new engine, same or less power allowed :\

done, but NZDM Moreys brO. Reduced the blue puffs, but not fixed.

my reading of the rules is that 4AFE to 4AGE + 6 speed and LSD is borderline okish, depnding on the care facotr of your wof dude www.lvvta.org.nz%2Fdocuments%2Fstandards%2FLVVTA_STD_Engine_%26_Drive-train_Conversions.pdf 4.2 Engine modifications that do not require certification A vehicle is not required to be certified to the Low Volume Vehicle Code, provided that the safe performance of the vehicle is not compromised, where the only modifications to the vehicle are those to the engine originally fitted to the vehicle by the vehicle manufacturer, that result in an increase of no more than 20% in engine power output from the original vehicle manufacturer’s specifications. 4.3 Engine conversions that do not require certification A vehicle is not required to be certified to the Low Volume Vehicle Code, provided that the safe performance of the vehicle is not compromised, where the only modification to the vehicle is the fitting of an engine other than that fitted by the vehicle manufacturer, and that the engine: (a) is of the same or less capacity or power output; and ( is of the same configuration; and © the fuel type is not changed from petrol to diesel or vice-versa; and (d) has the same type of fuel induction system; and (e) has the same weight, location, and centre of gravity; and (f) is of the same design and casting family of cylinder block and cylinder head(s). 4.4 Gearbox conversions that do not require certification A vehicle is not required to be certified to the Low Volume Vehicle Code, provided that the safe performance of the vehicle is not compromised, where the only modification to the vehicle is the fitting of a gearbox or automatic transmission other than that fitted by the vehicle manufacturer, and that: (a) the gearbox or automatic transmission has been fitted using the gearbox cross-member originally fitted to the vehicle; and some more on the next page

2ZZ vs 4A that^ is the PO's new car, he got the same colour and as close to the same specs as possible, and was annoyed that he couldnt get front winder windows (only rear ones). He still asks me about his old car.

duuudes, i had not considered those fine engines, mainly as they will not bolt in, nor be a 4A-GE, 7A-FE or cheap but mintly low milage 4AFE of some sort. But glad you got them on the list, and please proceed (no, do not want a proceeeed engine neiver)

hi, i love my daily driver wagon, but the trusty 4A-FE is getting pretty tired, now that its just clocked over 250km, As received: Doing the do: Still starts first time every time, and sips the gas, uses no coolant and no oil leaks but burning heaps of oil (yerp, valve stem seals are fairly nominal at this point!) Apart from the winder windows, the only thing that i dont like about it (coming from a J18A powered Suzuki Baleno GTX wagon) is the engine. Plently of low range 'pep' for pootling along but no real top end. I want to get a engine/box and ECU etc all together as a known runner ready to bolt in over a weekend (+/- a clutch and engine mount or two) - im thinking front cut. I understand that any AE1XX front end will pretty much bolt in (higher spec wagons have 4AGE of various iterations fitted factory) Car already has 1600 EFI (4AFE) and various Trueno bits and pieces eg rear IRS/Discs, strut mount, lowering springs etc , and im not interested in certing so keeping it sensible. I also want to keep the good parts about the 4AFE (ie economy) and fix the bad (ie oil burning and a bit meh), and the body is super clean and tidy, and i like the colour otherwise i woudnt bother. So, given CBF spending $400 on new stem seals and gaskets, and i dont know about the cam belt, so tell me about NA 4A-GE engine swaps! Like: Im currently pondering Blacktop and a 6 speed, but only becase more hgears is more 2F2F, and IDK more than that How much to pay? (i see engines/long blocks going for like $100 bucks?) Obv all the bits will be more...but how much? Reccomeded wreckers? What engine/box combo or car model to look for/avoid? Why do 20v engines love to sludge? Why are Black tops better than Silver tops? I also need a few suspension bushes, but fucked if I can find a good place that sells them. Andddddd go!

yes, thats what i said

was easy with all the barpbarpbarp, excessive throttle blips between clutching and gilly whine, noone was looking at me