gibbon

The high resistance through the armature would drop the output for sure. If it's 20x what the book says I'd start there

needs more full sik airbrushing m8 

Watching one of the many custom car shows, guy makes some subwoofer boxes, covers them in polar fleece, puts resin on the polar fleece then sands it all back to shape... that's a new one to me? 

On 10/05/2021 at 19:27, EpochNZ said:

I get the feeling quite a few people did, a mate definitely remembers BUA with fondness.

interesting development with BUA, current owner has contacted us tentatively with regards to restoring. workmate speculates it might have been the first civil twin in the country, imported in '57

When it comes to gillies, the Rule of Cool prevails IMHO 

On 11/04/2022 at 23:44, xTerraH said:

What ecu error codes are you seeing? 

sorry mate never got back to you - i meant to take a video but life took over. 

these are the fault codes for a regular SOHC 4g63 starion. the 4g54 conquest uses the same codes so i assume they were standard for mitsis at the time. however the code i pull is totally different

I'm using an analog meter as the regular digital multimeter can't react fast enough. I get a code that looks like this (repeating):

i don't know what to make of the big sweep at the start. is it a "begin sequence" indicator? the manuals don't mention anything about it. given that the car runs, i doubt there's a problem with the "ignition pulse" which would suggest that it's code #1, O2 sensor (which I have swapped out with an AEM unit, the gauge is configured to duplicate the factory sender output but perhaps there's something in there that the ECU doesn't like). the second part there's a slight gap between the two so again a bit hard to tell if it's a code 5 or a code 2 and 3. measured individually none of these components appear to have anything wrong with them. i've since changed AFM to the double barreled type ,there's every chance that it's all sorted now but ive had some problems with the fuel rail which i've made worse every time i've touched them so the car currently isn't running,. oh but the brakes have seized on again in the meantime.....

On 13/05/2022 at 00:31, Flowman said:

@gibbon you might be able to help me out. I have a L041G Pajero and I am trying to figure out the AFM for it. Someone wired up a Mazda MAF in it and it is not the right thing :D. 

So to the question your E5T00171 is that a 4 pin connector on it? 

Trying to get the E5T number for this AFM https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/mitsubishi/starion-4403/a183a-10711/mngr6-165169/air-cleaner-1883471#/il-43228692-4851515-4851515 but cannot find any info anywhere

Hey mate, yes I think it's a 4 pin plug, haven't been to the car recently but it rings a bell 

My wiring diagram shows an inlet air temp sensor in the AFM and both the styles of airflow meter that I have seem to have it

However I ALSO have some kind of sensor in the pipe before the throttle body but no idea if it's temp or pressure, the diagram makes no mention of it

There is a wiring diagram that makes mention of two inlet air temp sensors, I'll have to dig it out though. It's not the one that's applicable to my engine. Below is inlet pipe sensor 

4 hours ago, mopig said:

are they boost referenced fpr's? 

I guess so? there's a vacuum line to the throttle body 

Speeduino would be great because I could finally ditch the godawful airflow meter, but then there'd be the temptation to go MPI off the back of that, and that means off the road again for a decade 

The twin tube one is E5T00272, the single ones are 171. If it's supposed to be the twin tube one then there's an obvious problem right there, so thanks for that... I'll swap it out the moment I find motivation 

OK some new developments; i pulled the coolant temp sensor and checked it, it seems to be functioning, 2k ohm at ambient down to about 700 at boiling temp. I tested the internal resistance of the inlet temp sensor and there's something there at least, no idea what the nominal figure is. i have three airflow meters and they all gave the same result.

i also blew back through the fuel return line, there was a bit of resistance there but i could hear it bubbling back in the tank so don't think it's a problem

however i did notice something - the meters seem to have some kind of calibrated bypass tube? and some have a single, and some have a double. the one that was previously installed was the single unit. i have no idea if it's the correct one. but if the ECU is anticipating a load of additional unmetered air from a second tube that isn't there... that could well be why its running rich as buggery

That's what I meant sorry. So there's nothing sensitive in the line back to the tank?

OK the good news is that i seemed to have fixed the major problem - i pulled the secondary injector, it was all clean, reinstalled it, pressurized the rail and put some power to the injector and it sprayed like a champ. put a test light across the wires at the back side of the final plug and suddenly it's lighting up and the car is revving out.. so i'd say either a shitty connection somewhere which i've made right with vigorous plugging/unplugging, or maybe the injector was seized up and i've freed it up when i tap-tap-taparoo'd it into place because it didnt quite want to go in

she's still running rich as shit at idle, @bigfoot i checked the return line from the regulator, it was full of fuel so it's at least the valve itself is opening. i agree the rail pressure does seem high though, the return might be full of fuel but maybe it's fuel that isn't going anywhere thanks to a blockage further down... is it safe to disconnect the line and just blow it back with compressed air? when i pressurised the rail i could see that there were no leaks from the injectors or their little housing doodad

@kws i wouldn't have a clue what it's nominal figures are supposed to be for the temp sensor... i guess i could pull it and bench test it with a heat gun to see if it at least changes values.. i've never found a service manual for this particular engine and don't really want to take figures from the closest other manual as there does seem to be quite a few differences.

what air fuel ratios would you expect from an auto choke function? is there a chance it's rich as shit just because it's still trying to warm up?

The fuel pump is an unknown quantity but there was good pressure at the tb and the return line from the regulator was wet so I think it's getting fuel OK

The engine cuts out at any rpm with enough throttle input, or at 3500rpm if I build revs slowly at low throttle 

Airflow meter

I think I've just confirmed that the secondary injector isn't getting a signal to fire which would explain the cutting out.. going to try measuring again straight off the ecu

whether there's an actual issue with the ecu or if not firing the second injector is part of limp mode, I'm not too sure. Perhaps it's upset about something else 

I've never had this car running really so not too sure what the deal is. it's rich, it's lean, it cuts out on anything more than half throttle... the issue is explained in the YT blurb but here it is again

car starts and idles easily, the AFR gauge shows it getting progressively richer, but i suspect it's rich from the get go and is just getting more accurate as the probe heats up? i've changed the fuel filter and checked the pickup sock, I don't have a pressure gauge but I tapped a sender into the throttle body and it's showing in the realm of 50psi which is probably in the ballpark but which highlights another issue entirely, this is the 12v starion engine that nobody knows anything about or has any manuals for

anyway so it runs pretty rich and doesn't seem to lean out as RPM increases unloaded. on backing off it leans out quite a bit momentarily. really stabbing the throttle causes it to abruptly cut out, on recovery it runs off the gauge lean, but a blip on the throttle returns it to running reasonably rich. at the end of the video i floor the accelerator, you can see it cuts out before it makes any boost

it seems to be more load related than RPM related, the TPS seems to be functioning normally. the car has a knock sensor, optical dizzy with no vacuum advance. won't rev, wont build boost, running very rich, these are probably hallmarks of limp mode but i have no idea if this car even has it. read a few fault codes but they make no sense whatsoever, they don't correlate to any of the codes in manuals for the other engine models. i have swapped out an airflow meter and ecu but nothing has changed. what should i look at next? got a speeduino here but it'll kill me inside to rip back into the wiring

with smoke pouring off the oft-handled greasy exhaust, turbo and manifold, the starion fired into life and settled into a polite idle with very little actual hassle apart from having to rewire the fuel pump. I vaguely recall my workmate saying *something* had to be done in order to start the car but I couldn't remember what, he couldn't remember what, and the seller's contact details were about three phones ago, and I bet he can't remember what either. All I know is that the black & white wire that feeds the fuel pump wasn't anywhere in the main body loom so I'm guessing it's somewhere else with a killswitch attached to it. Anyhoo 

check out the glare from that CRISP AS FUCK WHITE. 

the car would be more complete except I absolutely refuse to pay retail for bulbs and so am currently waiting on about twenty various shaped and sized globes to limp over from chinaland. Obviously I've skipped a bunch of stuff but it's been mainly fiddling around putting bits of trim on, wiring back together, and faffing with the turbo plumbing

aside from it being pretty much time to fire up, the other reason for getting the cars out was to swap them over, relegating the GT6 to the Naughty Corner 

next problem I have, the car revs up fine, but if I try and stab the throttle to make some boost, it runs EXTREMELY lean (like, off the gauge lean) and cuts out. Could be the fact that it's running on five year old 91 drained out of the triumph? not too sure. I remember some wisdom of old "don't buy a starion with electrical problems, it will NEVER RUN AGAIN"

Pretty hungry now tbh 

On 11/09/2021 at 13:47, RUNAMUCK said:

It's not hoarding if your stuff is cool.......

Coolness is in the eye of the behoarder 

they should have made the final run of commodores into Roadpacers, that'd be a fine sendoff

tis a fine line between collecting and hoarding 

You might find the same item badged as an AddZest stereo too

I did wonder if it might be too hard, even a "hard" sanding block has a little bit of flex both in it and the paper over the top

I thought 1000 would be about right to knock off runs and orange peel? 

I guess so 

Can't wait to force a burger through a mask