mjrstar

Won't be tripping over this shit any more..

pull trigger, measure how much comes out in 6 seconds, multiply by 10 and you will know in mm/minute it's feeding this will give you an actual detail if it's feeding too fast or if it's just a hunch..

Incorrect diameter drive wheel fitted possibly? although you should be able to turn feed right down to almost nothing if it's working corretly?

Plan is 15x9's with 225 semi slicks, and the plate lsd, all other traction control will be operated by right foot, i can't see this being any worse than the solid axle setup in the starlet, surely IRS and wider (and new) rear rubber should actually improve the situation, power wise probably 260-270 wheel KW at maybe 24 psi but then dropped back to around 16-18 psi and 220-230 kw to make it a tad more driveable (guesstamation) at this stage..but hey if it for some odd reason only wants to make 200 wheel kw that's enough to create a smile in a lightweight car.. It should make power in more of a linear fashion with boost coming on earlier than the starlet.. also not too sure i understand your concern with said traction issues... isn't that the entire point of this sort of machine, i mean it's not exactly a toyota prius???

No real need. The ported housing and internal gate works well at 20 psi on my evo. Plus i would need 2 externals to run twin scroll which is $$ better spent elsewhere..

I had another obscure link which i cant find again. I am sure i posted it somewhere on OS before... Edit.. http://home.modemss.brisnet.org.au/~jmiller/wolseley/tuning.html

Too hot for work in the shed today... Managed to get this all but finished..

http://www.starchak.ca/tech/pdfs/hitachi.pdf I found the honda dizzy easiest to get hold of...but there are other options.. It goes well although my car could do with a bit more fuel from 6500 rpm onwards.

in a mini The en1 civic is the dizzy to use. Its a similar to cooper s advance curve. Look for max total advance of around 30-32 degrees.

Not quite how i wanted it to run but it was tough to keep the room at the rear for the dump pipe.. i would do it a bit differently next time.. still needs a tidy up with the die grinder....

the other issue with the head swap will be the cooling system, as the thermosat would normally mount off the back of the head, current plan is to mod the spare mx5 thermostat housing and remote mount it.. i have learnt that turbo on the drivers side is a headache - detials in the starlet thread. and the late model head looks cooler too, i have not seen this particular conversion done before?

Me too.. should be able to sort something out by the end of the weekend.. i really needed that number 4 runner to tuck forward as much as i could to give maximum dump pipe room.. Factory CAS is installed at the moment, not much chance of removing it with the engine in though.. i guess i could recess the firewall a bit but have been trying to avoind that at this stage.

Cooler mounting looks nice and solid.. Keen on some specific details for the ECU conversion, specifically the trigger for the cas, as this is on my to do list for the mazda.. maybe i can mod either the mazda cas or the later model evo one i have...

The main issue with the head swap is the extra oil drainbacks which will need to be filled.. but more about that later.. there will probably be some tinkering with the cam drive slot depending on what cam angle sensor is used.. the late model one won't work as it uses a cas and a crank trigger too.. anyway.. I spent some time in the shed today after work.. This is how the turbo is going to sit... it's going to make for an oddball dump pipe but should be able to squeeze it in there somewhere...

It won't be able to retard ignition to save the pistons if the engine starts to knock if it doesn't have any knock detection... My 1G is on song at around 3800rpm with a single scroll which is fine as it pulls strongly to a touch over 7500rpm. The ideal turbo i reckon for good response and top end ability would be something like what will be finding it's way on the mazda which is a evo 9 based TD05HR with TD06-20G wheels (the same as my evo already has) which i will be doing to the starlet if i have any issues with the current single scroll turbo.

Will keep the 1.8 diff in mind, but i'm pretty happy with the ratio selection of the evo diff in relation to proposed tyre diameter and the nissan gear ratios..

that would be some nasty torsen unit wouldn't it? not a decent plate lsd.. Manifold sorted..Minus some of the unnecessary ugly brackets.. Knocked in the balance shaft bearings in and laid on a coat of paint...

The sloppy diff mounts are in the bin. The diff will be solid mounted, also Making new floor sections for the gearbox x-member, so the driveline should have a pretty solid feel. Trying to avoid custom axles to keep costs down and aid in ease of replacement of parts..

The majority of the failures i have heard of have been due to soft mounting bushes / flex / "axle tramp" whatever you want to call it destroying the housings rather than internal failures due to inherent weakness, this is the early style case (not a newer AYC case) and been fitted whith probably the strongest of rear hats. Sure there is a chance it'll quit, but hoping the ISF of the gears will improve longevity. Maybe there is a better (and still cost effective) plate lsd option out there which has been overlooked? Plan B is probably an R200 diff, but time will tell I guess...

Not too keen on the mx5 axles to be honest.. The evo ones I have are a touch larger with more splines, it needs to take a beating without the fear of parts failing.. where do I buy shorts bits of straight steam tube.. probably 3 or 4 bits at 100mm long or so..

hopefully i can sort this lot out in to the beginnings of a manifold... well once i get my gas bottle back. that SCH 40 is thick stuff, i suspect SCH 30 or 10 would probably also do the trick without falling apart.. oh well

my 1gge+t was running 20 psi boost without any dramas, larger injectors turbo link ecu and most importantly a decent tune.. no idea how well things will behave on the factory ecu.. the 1G is a bloody solid engine, mine sure took a beating at numerous track days on 16-18 psi and around 245kw at the wheels...

Which FC rx7 stuff are we talking, wheel flanges or complete hub carriers etc??

Plan is to run the evo diff and axles with the subframe widened to suit. I still need to look in to the rear hub arrangement to find a suitable match for the evo spline.. Also looking to change to 4x114 stud pattern all round..

Some progress from saturday Not too sure the ali tape will hold much boost...Also obtained the gto 4 pots and discs for 50 bucks on the tard Next plan will be for some weld on the inlet manifold and i'll try get hold of some bends etc.. to piece together a manifold for the hot side..